murderout

hey everyone new to the website and man do i have some questions. i just recently purchased a 2000 trans am ws6 ls1 that has a d1sc procharger 42lb injectors stainless casania headers full 3" magna flow exhaust it is only pushing 5lbs it is a auto has a built transmission, dana 9" rear end with 373s and torque converter. Now the problem, i have a dyno appointment in june and i want it ready to go before i go. I'm looking to make around 600hp with out spraying! any suggestions on what i can do to put me up there i know I'm going to have to rank the boost up. I also will be purchasing 60lb injectors so i don't have to worry about DC. Any suggestions or build lists you used to get these numbers? Thanks you!!! Car only has 36k miles so I'm open to anything!!
(Also forgot to mention has a hfs 2/3pwm f-idc tracking water injection system?) not to sure what this is

kinglt-1

iTrader: (26)

More displacement is a start.

doc350

600 at the wheels or at the crank? That kind of power at the wheels is going to be tough on a stock bottom end through a stalled auto.

A well spec'd cam will go a long ways towards getting you there though. More boost too (8-10psi)

HCI2000SS

iTrader: (2)

600 fwhp is like 520 rwhp....pretty big difference

murderout

looking for adleast 550 I know i need cams and need to bump the boost up. any recommendations on cams for what i want? also should i make the switch to a ls6 manifold and a 92mm throttle body?

murderout

also for what I'm looking for should i go with a bosche 044 fuel pump or a walbro 255?

redbird555

iTrader: (14)

I'm assuming you mean CAM since ls motors only have 1. But at any rate we would need to know all the mods to the car and how it will be driven to help with a cam. I would also contact a sponsor on here to help spec one out once you know that info as they will be able to help the best.

As far as the intake goes you wont gain anything by just doing a 92mm tb on an ls6 intake. If you are going to upgrade the intake go to a fast 102 over the 90/92 versions as the 102 is a much beefier unit made to take boost.

600whp can be achieved as long as its done safely. Heads would make the number a lot more attainable but will cost a good bit of money.

murderout

as far as all the mods go they are listed in the first post its going to be a weekend car but i will be running it on the strip a decent amount. So as far as mods i should purchase before this dyno tune i have coming up is a 102mm fast intake, bigger tb and a cam correct? i need to upgrade my fuel pump as well i just ordered 60lb injectors not sure if i should run a bosche 044 pump or a walbro

redbird555

iTrader: (14)

I cant really comment on the walbro or bosch so maybe someone else will chime in but yes the fast and cam would be a great start

HCI2000SS

iTrader: (2)

I run a Walbro 255 pump with hotwire kit and am close to 600 rwhp with no issues, but I'm running nitrous, so not sure it would be the same if running boost

Rvn2svn

https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...228r-dyno.html

This guy made 593 / 489 using a 228r and water meth @ 9.5 lbs

Water/meth kits spray water/methanol (surprise surprise) into the intake charge to cool down intake air temps.The main reason you use it is to help prevent detonation. This allows for more aggressive timing and higher boost on cheap gas aka 93 octane. Think of it as on demand 110 octane.


You may want to look into a 340 pump or twin 255's. Your bumping up against what a 255 lph can reliably provide at full load. Also a lot of people overlook the stock in-tank fuel pressure regulator.

A return style system with a better aftermarket regulator /97-98 c5 return rails / 60lb injectors/ twin 255's would be ideal

Kmspeedie

iTrader: (1)

i had alot of fun with my single 7575 turbo on my ls1, i know its different but similar results should yield. I ran 12lbs. through a 3400 stalled auto, made 565 to the ground. mods were valve springs, 60lb siemens, boost a pump (if your pullin the tank just do a dual setup for later down the road so its done). For your goals a boost a pump is perfectly fine and easy, 60lbs injectors would be nice, i also sprayed 100% meth thru an alky control kit. who knows how built your tranny is? and if youll need a driveshaft? other than that your golden.. so for a quick easy mod list:
60lb inj.
boost a pump
valve springs
meth kit (heavily recomended as some people dont wanna spend the money on it... do it)

and you should be golden... i actually ran my stock driveshaft, pullin the wheels off the launch and it never broke so who knows.
and my ls1 other than valve springs was 100% untouched, a cam will help you alot though if wanted, so u can run around 10lbs or so to keep the motor happier. wont take to much to real that goal, goodluck!

Meth Sled

iTrader: (1)

Like stated above, a custom spec'd cam will go a LONG ways. Up the boost, and meth injection to keep things safe. If you are trying to stay away from swapping major mechanical parts.

Mongoose350

iTrader: (1)

Custom cam is a must, like has been said. With the stock cam, you'll be lucky to see 500whp.

The issue is that the D1SC is limited, mostly by the setup for the 4th gen F-bodies. Do you still have the twin intercooler, 6 rib setup? You're going to need a fmic and preferably an 8 rib. Bob at Brute Speed is the resident Pro Charger specialist, get with him to figure out the best way to optimize your setup.

Also, just an FYI. It being an auto will dyno lower than a standard car, and the 9in will eat up some power too. Don't be discouraged by a number. The track will tell the truth as to what you're really working with.

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

Thanks, I appreciate it! KP ran low 9's with his '98 Trans-Am with a D-1SC and my cam with a built engine. he then switched over to an F-1A and got it into the high 8's. Cam is shown here. http://shop.brutespeed.com/Brute-Spe...d-Camshaft.htm

To the OP, is your belt a six rib or eight rib? It probably is a six rib but you'll need to know in order to order a smaller blower pulley. Bob

JoeNova

I'm pretty sure you can make more than 500 to the wheels on a stock cam with the D1.

murderout

Yah still have the twin intercooler setup

Mongoose350

iTrader: (1)

True, but I think the amount that blower will need to spin to make it will cause horrible slip on the 6 rib pully.

Heres a stock ls1, looks possible.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamomet...-ls1-d1sc.html

murderout

so i am assuming it is a 6rib with the twin intercooler set up what do i need to switch it to a 8 rib? any links on kits would be great!

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

http://shop.brutespeed.com/ATI-1GJ11...-1GJ115-08.htm

I recommend upgrading your six rib kit to the eight rib. You'll go from the small 6.0" six rib crank pulley to the larger 7.65" 8 rib crank pulley, which means you'll end up with a larger pulley on the head unit. This will give you better belt wrap (ex o/O) along with the wider belt.

http://shop.brutespeed.com/Siemens-1...ens-107961.htm
60 lb fuel injectors

http://shop.brutespeed.com/Brute-Spe...d-Camshaft.htm
You'll need a good cam such as the one I have shown here. You'll also need valvesprings, pushrods and a timing chain set. These are all options at the link here. This combination with 8 psi, good headers and exhaust, will get you 550 to 600 rwhp depending on the dyno used. Bob