_916ls1z28_

I done a bunch of research but it's not enough. The reason for thread is I just found out I have a missfire in cylinder one on my boosted 5.7 ls1 . I'm going to do the comp test but in the mean time I'm looking at different stock 5.3 short blocks and I found a shop that sells them.

First question is the 2010 silverado engine aluminum 5.3 a L33? and the guy has one and he's telling me it will work with my 98 ls1 computer that I have to get the reluctor wheel adapter reader from lingenfelter bc it's a 58 tooth. He said to replace the lifter trays as well ? He said everything should swap over from the ls1 ?

I'm Trying to keep with in my budget so I'm planing to put 799 heads with a ls1 intake, a gt2-3 cam valve springs hardened push rods , 80 # injectors , and slap my t56 ,fly wheel ,basically slap all my stuff from my 98 5.7 on to the 2010 5.3 . Just add a cam and injectors and ls9 gaskets.

My other Q is which is better a 05 5.3 lm7 Iron block or the aluminum its a 2010 L33 5.3 my goal is 700 -800rwhp on meth or e85 with a s475 T4
Btw it's for a street car.

List of parts so far to keep the 5.3 alive
-ls9 gaskets
-arp head studs
-gt2-3 cam with valve springs push rods on 799 heads
- meth or e85
- 80# injectors I have a wal bro twin pump setup already hot wire kit
-Mallory regulator
-fuel rails

To some it all up should I go with the guys L33 or lm7 ? I also looked a t the vin and it didn't have a B on the vin ? But the block I can tell was a 5.3 and was alum which was kinda weird...

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

I see a few of problems…

If it’s a 2010 it’s not an L33. L33 was the alum gen 3 engine. 2010 Will be a Gen4 engine. Probably an LC9. All of these had the DOD setup. This needs to be blocked off, lifters replaced (trays too) as they are different for the drive on demand system that shuts down cylinders. LC9 also had the higher volume oil pumps that have issues sucking the pan dry to the point where the pickup uncovers. Esp. when used with an LS1 pan. You need the improved racing baffle for the LS1 pan, or a rear sump pan. Should be able to use the LS1 lifters/trays/oil pump. Also make sure to degree the cam. The LC9’s have been having issues with the crank keys not being pinned properly to just bolt on a 3 bolt cam and timing set and go. Mine was way off.

Your power goals seem unrealistic. Might be possible on E85, but you’d need to run 25ish lbs of boost which isn’t happening on pump gas. If you’re going with E85 you don’t have enough pump to hit your goals. You’d need to run close to 65ish base pressure to stretch 80lb injectors to 800WHP.

Unless you run a high dollar after market T-56 and a really nice clutch, it won’t last at 700-800whp levels.

There is no “budget” way to get around the drivetrain/fuel system IMO.

Either engine is capable of your goal. The alum eng. is about 80lbs lighter and usually come with the better 243 head.

_916ls1z28_

So 80# e85 + with my twin pumps won't cut it or pump gas and ally kit for 750 hp is the lc9 as strong as the l33

_916ls1z28_

so all of it sould bolt right up lifters trays , oil pump , reluctor wheel ,Ecu , intake and all

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

Correct 2 255's is not enough to take 80lb injectors where your trying to go.

LC9 is just as Strong as an L33.

The reluctor wheel will not bolt up it is attached to the crank. You'd need the lingenfelter box to convert the cam/crank signals. The rest should "bolt up".

I believe the 98 ECU's are not usually used when going turbo. You want the newer ECU. And you'd need HPtuners or something to program the ECU with.

_916ls1z28_

Thanks for the input I'm on the fence about buying the lc9 idk if I should buy it today or wait for a L33 because of the DOD and the lingenfelter reluctor wheel reader , so might as well get a 99+ Ecu do I need the whole harness to ? So the flat pistons should be fine with 799 heads or can I use my ls1 heads if I had too .