Tick Performance True Street(Ultra) Camaro 5.14@137.49
06-04-2015, 10:21 AM
#22
Thanks Wayne. We had the number 1 qualifier spot almost shored up last weekend. After Q1 we were number 1 with a 5.16@138.41. 1.26 60' so I had a ton of power out of it early. Ended up going out 2nd round by .0015 MOV.
Went a 1.23 60' Q2, but lifted at about the 70'-80' mark because it was getting out of the groove. Probably would of been a 5.11-5.12.
I think I have got the hot weather hot track tune just about figured out, hopefully I can keep going in the right direction.
Went a 1.23 60' Q2, but lifted at about the 70'-80' mark because it was getting out of the groove. Probably would of been a 5.11-5.12.
I think I have got the hot weather hot track tune just about figured out, hopefully I can keep going in the right direction.
06-05-2015, 09:45 PM
#23
Staging Lane
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: south jersey
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
WOW.... you are flying!!! and stock crank!! damn that gives me such motivation now to stick with the single and try to run ultra 275 up here where i live.. i didnt think i would be able to hang with the big boys with such a mild motor build but you have pushed the bar!!! my build plans were very similar to your build and nothing is set in stone yet!!..
keep up the good work man! im going to get up with you when im finally ready to start buying some parts for the build!!..
keep up the good work man! im going to get up with you when im finally ready to start buying some parts for the build!!..
06-08-2015, 08:12 AM
#26
3285# is what it crossed the scales at.
I hope once I swap the new solid roller camshaft in and get the inlet temps cooled down it will make some more power. Hopefully not more than the internals can handle. I just need this engine to hold until the end of the season. It will then get freshened up with new rings and bearings then hopefully get sold to someone who will put it to good use.
On this pass full boost was reached in 1.25-1.3 seconds. The guys running 5.0's and 4.90's are getting theirs in within 1.0-1.1 seconds max. Some maybe even sooner than that.
Thank you sir!
WOW.... you are flying!!! and stock crank!! damn that gives me such motivation now to stick with the single and try to run ultra 275 up here where i live.. i didnt think i would be able to hang with the big boys with such a mild motor build but you have pushed the bar!!! my build plans were very similar to your build and nothing is set in stone yet!!..
keep up the good work man! im going to get up with you when im finally ready to start buying some parts for the build!!..
keep up the good work man! im going to get up with you when im finally ready to start buying some parts for the build!!..
On this pass full boost was reached in 1.25-1.3 seconds. The guys running 5.0's and 4.90's are getting theirs in within 1.0-1.1 seconds max. Some maybe even sooner than that.
Thank you sir!
06-19-2015, 08:04 AM
#29
I have LS3 hollow stem intake valves, and Manley SS exhaust valves installed.
I purchased mine with stock exhaust valves and LS3 intake valves for 700 dollars IIRC.
Yes, but the car keeps wanting to drive left off the starting line under power.
Going to work on it tomorrow and put it on the scales to check and make sure the weight bias isn't off and that it doesn't have too much weight on the right rear causing it to drive left. I've messed with the ride height in the rear a good bit and added 50-60 pounds of weight by adding fuel to the tank. It very well could be causing my issues.
I should of had the car on scales each and every time I adjusted the ride height. Lesson learned...
If the weights check out I'm going to take it back to the alignment rack I used a few weeks ago and check to make sure the rear tires are square with the chassis and front tires.
If that checks out then I'm going to start tearing the rear suspension out of it, housing and all and send the shocks off to be dyno tested and check to be sure nothing is tweaked, bent or flexing. If it is, then it's time to talk to Eric@MWC about a 9".
I hope that isn't my issue, but I've honestly been wondering in the back of my mind when my 12 bolt would become an issue at this power level.
I guess I'll find out soon what the issue is.
06-19-2015, 10:28 PM
#31
Staging Lane
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: south jersey
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
hey martin i am hoping you got my email.. but if not i posted one your (new cam thread) recently in the INTERNAL engine section should be up in the last 2 pages of recently posted on threads..
not sure if it went thru as an email or pm (since you pms are blocked)
im going to give you a call this week tho either way...
not sure if it went thru as an email or pm (since you pms are blocked)
im going to give you a call this week tho either way...
Last edited by Mike Prychka; 06-21-2015 at 10:19 PM.
06-22-2015, 09:33 AM
#35
Timing is 28* until 7psi which is what I normally leave the starting line with. At 12psi it's 26.5*, 18psi it's 24.5*, 22psi it's 23* and at 28psi it's 20.5*.
Boost starts to drop around 6400rpm from 28psi to 27psi, and I have 21* in it there. At 6800rpm it drops to 26psi and I have 21.5* in it at that point.
Plugs show a tan/gold color up to the bend in the electrode currently. No heat shows past the bend in the electrode and I run -10 non projected tip gasket seat NGK spark plugs.
It could probably use a little more timing based on plug readings. I used to run 20.5* from 28psi to 26psi from 6400rpm to redline. When I gave it the .5 degree timing at 27psi, and another .5 degree at 26psi it went from a 1.80-1.81 back split to a 1.79-1.795 back split which is a full MPH gained in the 1/8th mile. This is on VP C16.
Update on the chassis issue:
Put it on scales Saturday after re-squaring up the rear end. It actually had about 25-30# more weight on the left rear with me in the car than it did on the right rear. This would make it drive slightly right if anything. I readjusted the left front coilover a little higher to put the weight back on the right rear where it should be. So it now has 20# more on the right rear than the left rear. I didn't do this in an attempt to fix the driving left issue, as this would make it drive left even worse. I did this just to put it back to where it should be.
I'm going to take it back to the alignment rack this week and check to be sure the rear end is square with the chassis and front tires. If it is, then I guess I have to start tearing the rear end and suspension out of the car and checking to see if anything is bent or tweaked.
Last edited by Sales@Tick; 06-22-2015 at 10:57 AM.
06-22-2015, 11:12 AM
#36
I target 12.0 AFR from the release of the trans brake to peak torque. At peak torque I target 11.7 and hold 11.7 to red line. The way I have the commanded VE table set-up, after peak HP (6500-6600rpm) it leans out to 11.8ish to redline.
Timing is 28* until 7psi which is what I normally leave the starting line with. At 12psi it's 26.5*, 18psi it's 24.5*, 22psi it's 23* and at 28psi it's 20.5*.
Boost starts to drop around 6400rpm from 28psi to 27psi, and I have 21* in it there. At 6800rpm it drops to 26psi and I have 21.5* in it at that point.
Plugs show a tan/gold color up to the bend in the electrode currently. No heat shows past the bend in the electrode and I run -10 non projected tip gasket seat NGK spark plugs.
It could probably use a little more timing based on plug readings. I used to run 20.5* from 28psi to 26psi from 6400rpm to redline. When I gave it the .5 degree timing at 27psi, and another .5 degree at 26psi it went from a 1.80-1.81 back split to a 1.79-1.795 back split which is a full MPH gained in the 1/8th mile. This is on VP C16.
.
Timing is 28* until 7psi which is what I normally leave the starting line with. At 12psi it's 26.5*, 18psi it's 24.5*, 22psi it's 23* and at 28psi it's 20.5*.
Boost starts to drop around 6400rpm from 28psi to 27psi, and I have 21* in it there. At 6800rpm it drops to 26psi and I have 21.5* in it at that point.
Plugs show a tan/gold color up to the bend in the electrode currently. No heat shows past the bend in the electrode and I run -10 non projected tip gasket seat NGK spark plugs.
It could probably use a little more timing based on plug readings. I used to run 20.5* from 28psi to 26psi from 6400rpm to redline. When I gave it the .5 degree timing at 27psi, and another .5 degree at 26psi it went from a 1.80-1.81 back split to a 1.79-1.795 back split which is a full MPH gained in the 1/8th mile. This is on VP C16.
.
07-01-2015, 04:24 PM
#37
You CAN NOT tell someone that just because their engine generates a certain amount of manifold pressure that it equals X timing value. Not to mention cylinder pressure is not static, it's dynamic. So your timing values and air fuel should also be dynamic, not static.
That statement of, "you have to run a certain amount of timing for a certain PSI" is very general and sends a lot of people down the rabbit hole chasing why their car won't run as fast as other people's cars.
Run what the time slip and plug tells you the car wants.
07-01-2015, 04:30 PM
#38
I try not to get involved in those pissing matches.
You CAN NOT tell someone that just because their engine generates a certain amount of manifold pressure that it equals X timing value. Not to mention cylinder pressure is not static, it's dynamic. So your timing values and air fuel should also be dynamic, not static.
That statement of, "you have to run a certain amount of timing for a certain PSI" is very general and sends a lot of people down the rabbit hole chasing why their car won't run as fast as other people's cars.
Run what the time slip and plug tells you the car wants.
You CAN NOT tell someone that just because their engine generates a certain amount of manifold pressure that it equals X timing value. Not to mention cylinder pressure is not static, it's dynamic. So your timing values and air fuel should also be dynamic, not static.
That statement of, "you have to run a certain amount of timing for a certain PSI" is very general and sends a lot of people down the rabbit hole chasing why their car won't run as fast as other people's cars.
Run what the time slip and plug tells you the car wants.
07-03-2015, 11:38 AM
#39
I try not to get involved in those pissing matches.
You CAN NOT tell someone that just because their engine generates a certain amount of manifold pressure that it equals X timing value. Not to mention cylinder pressure is not static, it's dynamic. So your timing values and air fuel should also be dynamic, not static.
That statement of, "you have to run a certain amount of timing for a certain PSI" is very general and sends a lot of people down the rabbit hole chasing why their car won't run as fast as other people's cars.
Run what the time slip and plug tells you the car wants.
You CAN NOT tell someone that just because their engine generates a certain amount of manifold pressure that it equals X timing value. Not to mention cylinder pressure is not static, it's dynamic. So your timing values and air fuel should also be dynamic, not static.
That statement of, "you have to run a certain amount of timing for a certain PSI" is very general and sends a lot of people down the rabbit hole chasing why their car won't run as fast as other people's cars.
Run what the time slip and plug tells you the car wants.
07-06-2015, 08:56 AM
#40
I'm working with Eric@MWC on a full rear end package for the car.
New housing, new third, new TA, new LCA's, new panhard, new anti-roll...all the goodies. I'll be keeping my Menscer Afco DA shocks of course.
Switching the car over to solid roller now that I have all my parts.
Went with T&D shaft rockers, Morel Ultra Pro .842" lifters, 8620 Cam Motion camshaft, PAC 1237X valve springs and Trend is sponsoring me a set of really nice 7/16" - 3/8" .165" wall tool steel tipped exhaust push rods and 3/8" .135" wall tool steel tipped intake push rods.
I also am switching to Ignite "red" which is a 114 octane E90 blend race fuel. The hope with the fuel swap is to be able to keep the power the car makes on the dyno with 120* inlet temps the same as it makes on track with 170-180* inlet temps. I've done a lot of research and talked to a lot of people who have switched from C16 to these types of fuels in high inlet temp applications. If the research is as good as the results I get, it should be well worth it.
New housing, new third, new TA, new LCA's, new panhard, new anti-roll...all the goodies. I'll be keeping my Menscer Afco DA shocks of course.
Switching the car over to solid roller now that I have all my parts.
Went with T&D shaft rockers, Morel Ultra Pro .842" lifters, 8620 Cam Motion camshaft, PAC 1237X valve springs and Trend is sponsoring me a set of really nice 7/16" - 3/8" .165" wall tool steel tipped exhaust push rods and 3/8" .135" wall tool steel tipped intake push rods.
I also am switching to Ignite "red" which is a 114 octane E90 blend race fuel. The hope with the fuel swap is to be able to keep the power the car makes on the dyno with 120* inlet temps the same as it makes on track with 170-180* inlet temps. I've done a lot of research and talked to a lot of people who have switched from C16 to these types of fuels in high inlet temp applications. If the research is as good as the results I get, it should be well worth it.
Last edited by Sales@Tick; 07-06-2015 at 09:38 AM.