Knock sensors needed or not.
#3
Junk. Throw away
They are calibrated for completely OEM, that's it
Change anything, cam, valve train, engine mounts, exhaust, Perty much anything and they are worthless
They are calibrated for completely OEM, that's it
Change anything, cam, valve train, engine mounts, exhaust, Perty much anything and they are worthless
#4
9 Second Club
IMO it's senseless to throw them away. By all means turn any controlling action off if you are unsure how to set things up correctly, but there is no harm having there and logging information when you want.
Then you can set things up correctly, again up to whoever is tuning it how much correction they allow if any noises are heard.
#5
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (14)
gm spends so many hours calibrating those things to work with a specific combination that really when you modify the cam, exhaust etc they get thrown off so even with bolt ons they're out of whack.
I have messed with the sensitivity settings and found that if you leave them stock they dont pick up much of anything with the increased noise from mods but if you start increasing sensitivity there isnt really a happy medium. either they pick up nothing at all or they pick up all sorts of false knock and cause issues.
I have messed with the sensitivity settings and found that if you leave them stock they dont pick up much of anything with the increased noise from mods but if you start increasing sensitivity there isnt really a happy medium. either they pick up nothing at all or they pick up all sorts of false knock and cause issues.
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#13
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (14)
knock sensors are calibrated to listen for one specific noise on a very fine frequency. when you change the location with sensors that werent calibrated or made for it they will pick up all sorts of excess noise and not pick out the pinging noise.
sure everyone is free to try. I did. After talking to katech and slowhawk though I decided to stop messing with them as I had the same issues they did
sure everyone is free to try. I did. After talking to katech and slowhawk though I decided to stop messing with them as I had the same issues they did
#14
9 Second Club
Knock sensors on modern cars are generally wideband sensors, they simply listen over a wide range.
The ecu then filters this out, listening more closely to certain frequencies, and in better systems only listening through a specific window of crank degrees on a per cylinder basis, again this helps with filtering out unwanted noises.
But it isnt just the frequency, it's also noise changes or patterns. Clearly background noise that's always increasing is of no concern, it's any loud spikes that are of more interest.
It will of course boil down to the ecu you're using, how configurable it is, and the person using it.
But as said, if they're there, it can do no harm to have them there simply listening. Again, it's up to the tuner as to any controlling action they allow based on what is being heard.
If you arent confident with the setup, just listen and dont try and correct anything.
The ecu then filters this out, listening more closely to certain frequencies, and in better systems only listening through a specific window of crank degrees on a per cylinder basis, again this helps with filtering out unwanted noises.
But it isnt just the frequency, it's also noise changes or patterns. Clearly background noise that's always increasing is of no concern, it's any loud spikes that are of more interest.
It will of course boil down to the ecu you're using, how configurable it is, and the person using it.
But as said, if they're there, it can do no harm to have them there simply listening. Again, it's up to the tuner as to any controlling action they allow based on what is being heard.
If you arent confident with the setup, just listen and dont try and correct anything.
#15
8 Second Club
iTrader: (3)
I know a couple turbo guys who turned them off because they used solid mounts and the sensors talked at idle.
About 6 engines later, both went to forged bottom ends.
If you are hearing knock under high boost, the damage is done.
I've two hotrodded LS engines. One NA on gas, one turbo on E85.
Knock sensors are slightly desensitized, and set up to decay quickly. I see the knock, I never hear it. Trimming timing just ahead of where the KR occurs fixes it.
I think they are a good tuning aid. At least in my case.
Ron
About 6 engines later, both went to forged bottom ends.
If you are hearing knock under high boost, the damage is done.
I've two hotrodded LS engines. One NA on gas, one turbo on E85.
Knock sensors are slightly desensitized, and set up to decay quickly. I see the knock, I never hear it. Trimming timing just ahead of where the KR occurs fixes it.
I think they are a good tuning aid. At least in my case.
Ron
#17
9 Second Club
I know a couple turbo guys who turned them off because they used solid mounts and the sensors talked at idle.
About 6 engines later, both went to forged bottom ends.
If you are hearing knock under high boost, the damage is done.
I've two hotrodded LS engines. One NA on gas, one turbo on E85.
Knock sensors are slightly desensitized, and set up to decay quickly. I see the knock, I never hear it. Trimming timing just ahead of where the KR occurs fixes it.
I think they are a good tuning aid. At least in my case.
Ron
About 6 engines later, both went to forged bottom ends.
If you are hearing knock under high boost, the damage is done.
I've two hotrodded LS engines. One NA on gas, one turbo on E85.
Knock sensors are slightly desensitized, and set up to decay quickly. I see the knock, I never hear it. Trimming timing just ahead of where the KR occurs fixes it.
I think they are a good tuning aid. At least in my case.
Ron
Knock sensor feedback works just fine, but again it does boil down to the ecu you're using and how configurable the knock detection, and subsequent knock control you allow it.
Used correctly, good knock detection always makes sense....whether in the form of electronic devices, or the most basic, and arguably perhaps the best, a plain and simple stethoscope/det cans as they're more commonly called.
You can pick up even the slightest onset of knock with those, and it is always sensible to back up and configure any electronic means with the stethoscope.
#18
UNDER PRESSURE MOD
iTrader: (19)
I recently switched from an ls1 to an ls3 and moved mine to the sides of the block. I wasn't seeing any knock, ever, not even tip in or burst or any at all. So I began adjusting the sensitivity of them a little at a time. Granted, my tune is conservative, so I don't expect to experience knock, but it is a nice safety net. I continued to increase the sensitivity till I noticed an occasion 0.5-1.0 degree of knock detection during high load, high torque times. I then decreased the sensitivity by a little bit.
The way I look at it, is it's a safety net in case something goes wrong. If the build is done right, fuel source is consistent, and the tune is conservative, you don't have to worry, but show me someone who actually measures their octane each time they get gas? Mistakes can happen, so it's nice to have them as a backup. I don't tune based off them, but since I have them, I made use of them.
The way I look at it, is it's a safety net in case something goes wrong. If the build is done right, fuel source is consistent, and the tune is conservative, you don't have to worry, but show me someone who actually measures their octane each time they get gas? Mistakes can happen, so it's nice to have them as a backup. I don't tune based off them, but since I have them, I made use of them.
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Capecodder (12-21-2023)
#20
9 Second Club
I recently switched from an ls1 to an ls3 and moved mine to the sides of the block. I wasn't seeing any knock, ever, not even tip in or burst or any at all. So I began adjusting the sensitivity of them a little at a time. Granted, my tune is conservative, so I don't expect to experience knock, but it is a nice safety net. I continued to increase the sensitivity till I noticed an occasion 0.5-1.0 degree of knock detection during high load, high torque times. I then decreased the sensitivity by a little bit.
The way I look at it, is it's a safety net in case something goes wrong. If the build is done right, fuel source is consistent, and the tune is conservative, you don't have to worry, but show me someone who actually measures their octane each time they get gas? Mistakes can happen, so it's nice to have them as a backup. I don't tune based off them, but since I have them, I made use of them.
The way I look at it, is it's a safety net in case something goes wrong. If the build is done right, fuel source is consistent, and the tune is conservative, you don't have to worry, but show me someone who actually measures their octane each time they get gas? Mistakes can happen, so it's nice to have them as a backup. I don't tune based off them, but since I have them, I made use of them.
Of course their ability to pick up noise in conjunction with logging, can be helpful when diagnosing other problems. If you start seeing lots of noise for no reason and you know the tune is safe...then you might need to delve deeper into the engine.