1000-1300hp. Most street friendly blower/ls combo?
07-21-2015, 09:32 AM
#41
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on a vette there is a simple proven combo although it not cheap.
forged LS2 with some TFS/AFR heads 10:1 compression
A&A or ECS YSI/2200r kit with a 10 rib setup
Direct drive with ECS Cog mod
Alky Control Meth kit and/or E85
With all the supporting mods with will get you a nice reliable 1000-1100 at the wheels all day. No need to try to reinvent the wheel, just go with a repeatable setup. Another plus is all you would have to do is upgrade your current kit to a 10 rib and pick up a YSI. Andy does offer trade in on used head units so that will save you a couple of bucks.
forged LS2 with some TFS/AFR heads 10:1 compression
A&A or ECS YSI/2200r kit with a 10 rib setup
Direct drive with ECS Cog mod
Alky Control Meth kit and/or E85
With all the supporting mods with will get you a nice reliable 1000-1100 at the wheels all day. No need to try to reinvent the wheel, just go with a repeatable setup. Another plus is all you would have to do is upgrade your current kit to a 10 rib and pick up a YSI. Andy does offer trade in on used head units so that will save you a couple of bucks.
07-21-2015, 12:03 PM
#42
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on a vette there is a simple proven combo although it not cheap.
forged LS2 with some TFS/AFR heads 10:1 compression
A&A or ECS YSI/2200r kit with a 10 rib setup
Direct drive with ECS Cog mod
Alky Control Meth kit and/or E85
With all the supporting mods with will get you a nice reliable 1000-1100 at the wheels all day. No need to try to reinvent the wheel, just go with a repeatable setup. Another plus is all you would have to do is upgrade your current kit to a 10 rib and pick up a YSI. Andy does offer trade in on used head units so that will save you a couple of bucks.
forged LS2 with some TFS/AFR heads 10:1 compression
A&A or ECS YSI/2200r kit with a 10 rib setup
Direct drive with ECS Cog mod
Alky Control Meth kit and/or E85
With all the supporting mods with will get you a nice reliable 1000-1100 at the wheels all day. No need to try to reinvent the wheel, just go with a repeatable setup. Another plus is all you would have to do is upgrade your current kit to a 10 rib and pick up a YSI. Andy does offer trade in on used head units so that will save you a couple of bucks.
07-21-2015, 12:04 PM
#43
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Cheapest/best way is to buy a car built at that level. You can find nice c6 in the 1000-1200rwhp range for $65-70k all day long. Hell, buy my car for that much.
My car has done over 1100rwhp on 11 degrees timing, maxed out dyno with any more, so I estimate ~1200ish. I daily drive the crap out of it, would have no issue going cross country. To get it to that level was a ton of money, work, and fixing issues.
Like above people said, YSi/2200R, ECS 10 rib with cogged DD, and then enough fuel, drive train, motor, and cooling upgrades to let it live and be driveable. That is where crap adds up.
Other option is F1X/10 rib/DD setup, but for daily reliable, I'll take a Ysi any day. There was 3 F1X cars at last race I went to, not a single one left running while my car that was driving 100+ miles to the race made 15+ passes, drove home.
My car has done over 1100rwhp on 11 degrees timing, maxed out dyno with any more, so I estimate ~1200ish. I daily drive the crap out of it, would have no issue going cross country. To get it to that level was a ton of money, work, and fixing issues.
Like above people said, YSi/2200R, ECS 10 rib with cogged DD, and then enough fuel, drive train, motor, and cooling upgrades to let it live and be driveable. That is where crap adds up.
Other option is F1X/10 rib/DD setup, but for daily reliable, I'll take a Ysi any day. There was 3 F1X cars at last race I went to, not a single one left running while my car that was driving 100+ miles to the race made 15+ passes, drove home.
07-21-2015, 12:07 PM
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Since you really like the way your current centrifugal setup runs, I would suggest going with a built block, and a bigger blower. Get your fuel system squared away, ceramic coat the exhaust, get a better drive belt setup, and you should have a very trouble free 1000+hp setup and have very streetable manners.
I went from a D1sC on a stock cube motor making 760rwhp to my current setup which is a 416ls3 with an F1a and it is still just as streetable and friendly as before. I haven't dyno'd, but I would guess I'm in the 800-900 range at least.
The thing about twin turbos, or any turbo setup at the high hp mark, is getting it to be streetable. You need a boost controller to get the boost to come in like a centrifugal does or else it will shock the drivetrain and be more of an on/off switch which is tough for road course and autocross.
I went from a D1sC on a stock cube motor making 760rwhp to my current setup which is a 416ls3 with an F1a and it is still just as streetable and friendly as before. I haven't dyno'd, but I would guess I'm in the 800-900 range at least.
The thing about twin turbos, or any turbo setup at the high hp mark, is getting it to be streetable. You need a boost controller to get the boost to come in like a centrifugal does or else it will shock the drivetrain and be more of an on/off switch which is tough for road course and autocross.
Thanks for Input. Definitely a thought in the back of my mind is how this thing will react Ina road course/autox setting. Obviously this isn't the ideal setup for that, but it would just flat be sad if I couldn't still go out and do that stuff without just blowing the tires off at every turn.
07-21-2015, 12:10 PM
#45
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Not going to happen. You aren't doing a 1000rwhp c6 that also can autox or road race. Just isn't going to happen. Only way maybe would be a very very high dollar build with lots of custom work. At that point, buy a second track car would be cheaper.
Only way you could maybe do that would be a nasty NA build and a lot of spray, then just don't spray on a road/autox course.
Only way you could maybe do that would be a nasty NA build and a lot of spray, then just don't spray on a road/autox course.
07-21-2015, 12:14 PM
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Cheapest/best way is to buy a car built at that level. You can find nice c6 in the 1000-1200rwhp range for $65-70k all day long. Hell, buy my car for that much.
My car has done over 1100rwhp on 11 degrees timing, maxed out dyno with any more, so I estimate ~1200ish. I daily drive the crap out of it, would have no issue going cross country. To get it to that level was a ton of money, work, and fixing issues.
Like above people said, YSi/2200R, ECS 10 rib with cogged DD, and then enough fuel, drive train, motor, and cooling upgrades to let it live and be driveable. That is where crap adds up.
Other option is F1X/10 rib/DD setup, but for daily reliable, I'll take a Ysi any day. There was 3 F1X cars at last race I went to, not a single one left running while my car that was driving 100+ miles to the race made 15+ passes, drove home.
My car has done over 1100rwhp on 11 degrees timing, maxed out dyno with any more, so I estimate ~1200ish. I daily drive the crap out of it, would have no issue going cross country. To get it to that level was a ton of money, work, and fixing issues.
Like above people said, YSi/2200R, ECS 10 rib with cogged DD, and then enough fuel, drive train, motor, and cooling upgrades to let it live and be driveable. That is where crap adds up.
Other option is F1X/10 rib/DD setup, but for daily reliable, I'll take a Ysi any day. There was 3 F1X cars at last race I went to, not a single one left running while my car that was driving 100+ miles to the race made 15+ passes, drove home.
?
07-21-2015, 12:19 PM
#47
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Not going to happen. You aren't doing a 1000rwhp c6 that also can autox or road race. Just isn't going to happen. Only way maybe would be a very very high dollar build with lots of custom work. At that point, buy a second track car would be cheaper.
Only way you could maybe do that would be a nasty NA build and a lot of spray, then just don't spray on a road/autox course.
Only way you could maybe do that would be a nasty NA build and a lot of spray, then just don't spray on a road/autox course.
No question about it, mentioning autox or road race in this setting will bring out the trolls, not you but just in general. I totally understand what your saying. Let's just stick to the original goal I posted in this thread, daily drivable, roll race killer.
07-21-2015, 12:46 PM
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Track her is too strict to run it at the 1/4 mile, but was solid upper 180s in 1/2 mile, and easily walked away from several 155mph 1/4 mile cars at 1/2 mile events, so lines up pretty well with what the dyno said.
A solid DD capable reliable 1000+rwhp setup is easily $50k in parts with no labor. Just know what you are getting into. That is why buying a built one for $70k is the best way to go. Sell your current car, and buy one.
1000rwhp is easy (not cheap but easy), getting it to not overheat, and take a beating daily is the tough part.
A solid DD capable reliable 1000+rwhp setup is easily $50k in parts with no labor. Just know what you are getting into. That is why buying a built one for $70k is the best way to go. Sell your current car, and buy one.
1000rwhp is easy (not cheap but easy), getting it to not overheat, and take a beating daily is the tough part.
07-21-2015, 01:02 PM
#49
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Track her is too strict to run it at the 1/4 mile, but was solid upper 180s in 1/2 mile, and easily walked away from several 155mph 1/4 mile cars at 1/2 mile events, so lines up pretty well with what the dyno said.
A solid DD capable reliable 1000+rwhp setup is easily $50k in parts with no labor. Just know what you are getting into. That is why buying a built one for $70k is the best way to go. Sell your current car, and buy one.
1000rwhp is easy (not cheap but easy), getting it to not overheat, and take a beating daily is the tough part.
A solid DD capable reliable 1000+rwhp setup is easily $50k in parts with no labor. Just know what you are getting into. That is why buying a built one for $70k is the best way to go. Sell your current car, and buy one.
1000rwhp is easy (not cheap but easy), getting it to not overheat, and take a beating daily is the tough part.
What he says...................
07-21-2015, 01:20 PM
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If I'm taking it correctly, I have to admit I'm still hearing a few different opinions. The question is, can I forge my ls2, dump a big centri on it, upgrade the fuel and drivetrain stuff that hasn't been yet, make 1000+ and do it safely and reliably virtually forever? Or do I need something like erl setup for true piece of mind?
07-21-2015, 01:22 PM
#51
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If I'm taking it correctly, I have to admit I'm still hearing a few different opinions. The question is, can I forge my ls2, dump a big centri on it, upgrade the fuel and drivetrain stuff that hasn't been yet, make 1000+ and do it safely and reliably virtually forever? Or do I need something like erl setup for true piece of mind?
07-21-2015, 01:41 PM
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I said virtually. Lol. Again I'm no spring chicken. Let just say instead of being unrealistic, I'm enjoying seeking out and hearing from the people who know personally how far the line can be pushed and for how long, and how to make it last, and of course how to get it done 'streetably'
07-21-2015, 01:44 PM
#53
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I said virtually. Lol. Again I'm no spring chicken. Let just say instead of being unrealistic, I'm enjoying seeking out and hearing from the people who know personally how far the line can be pushed and for how long, and how to make it last, and of course how to get it done 'streetably'
07-21-2015, 01:49 PM
#54
Idk about y'all but I would probably never buy someone else's project... Especially a $60-$75k project..
I think building it your way is better than buying a vehicle that is already built. Too many things can happen that you wouldn't have a clue about. At least when you have built it, you can track down the problems that arise fairly quickly.
I think building it your way is better than buying a vehicle that is already built. Too many things can happen that you wouldn't have a clue about. At least when you have built it, you can track down the problems that arise fairly quickly.
07-21-2015, 02:49 PM
#55
What about a Whipple 4.5? I believe the last one we did was somewhere around 1300hp (crank) with pump gas. Being that it is a more efficient blower then the 4.0, you won't have to push it as hard and will create less heat. For no belt issues, a dual belt system will be a must. But as everyone else is saying, turbos are the way to go for power...
RHS block 463 cu in
CBM Pro X heads (6 bolt style)
Matching cam
4.5 Whipple
= your power goals
RHS block 463 cu in
CBM Pro X heads (6 bolt style)
Matching cam
4.5 Whipple
= your power goals
07-21-2015, 03:14 PM
#57
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Sadly a whipple setup like that won't fit a vette easy.
Stock ls2 block would be iffy. If tune was spot on, and gas good, you can, but I wouldn't personally. I would at least sleeve it for a solid 1000rwhp daily car.
When you are dropping $30k+ into the rest of it, what is another $2k to sleeve the block?
Stock ls2 block would be iffy. If tune was spot on, and gas good, you can, but I wouldn't personally. I would at least sleeve it for a solid 1000rwhp daily car.
When you are dropping $30k+ into the rest of it, what is another $2k to sleeve the block?
07-21-2015, 05:28 PM
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How much boost can I pull out of a zr1 blower with the ported snout and all the trimmings? Among all the roots type stuff (roots, right?) isn't that one of the most efficient/street friendly? Could I get to 1200 with it without a super beast really raspy motor?
07-21-2015, 05:30 PM
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Sadly a whipple setup like that won't fit a vette easy.
Stock ls2 block would be iffy. If tune was spot on, and gas good, you can, but I wouldn't personally. I would at least sleeve it for a solid 1000rwhp daily car.
When you are dropping $30k+ into the rest of it, what is another $2k to sleeve the block?
Stock ls2 block would be iffy. If tune was spot on, and gas good, you can, but I wouldn't personally. I would at least sleeve it for a solid 1000rwhp daily car.
When you are dropping $30k+ into the rest of it, what is another $2k to sleeve the block?
07-21-2015, 05:32 PM
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Who cares about boost. You could get 40psi out of it if you put a 100/110 duration cam and some crap heads and 1/2" headers on the car.
ZR1 blower won't get you where you need. Not without a ton of work and spray. Even 800-850rwhp out of a zr1 setup is a lot of money and pushing it. A Ysi will do 1000 all day without breaking a sweat and run just fine.
Do you have $40k to drop on the car to do this? That isn't even labor. If not, you may want to change your goals.
ZR1 blower won't get you where you need. Not without a ton of work and spray. Even 800-850rwhp out of a zr1 setup is a lot of money and pushing it. A Ysi will do 1000 all day without breaking a sweat and run just fine.
Do you have $40k to drop on the car to do this? That isn't even labor. If not, you may want to change your goals.