370/F1A round 2
08-28-2015, 05:42 PM
#1
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370/F1A round 2 Its been about 3 monts since the other motor messed up while tuning. Heres a little run down of the old setup. It had a stock crank in it which bent all to hell at this power level.
Car made 937/842 on old setup with about 20-21# and 21 degrees timing. Stopped turning timing up as the crappy heads wouldn't stay down
370" iron block
Wiseco -3.2cc pistons, regular wrist pins
Callies compstar rods
Stock crank
head studs
main studs
Ls9 gaskets
Ls3 heads decked .35 (were lifting)
custom Tick Performance blower cam
stock ls3 intake with 90mm TB
Procharger 4" intercooler and 3" pipes
F1A blower with 4.13" pulley
8.65" CBR crank pulley
Aster bracket
no filter
Made about 20-21#
1 7/8" texas speed headers into texas speed true duals with no mufflers
Squash dual 450's, -8 PTFE line to and from, 160# injectors
E85 fuel
9", M6 with Monster LT!-SC twin disc
New Setup:
All the above stayed the same besides
K1 stock stoke crank
upgraded wrist pins
Texas speed PRC 260cc heads with hollow intake valves
I just got it back together and am in the process of breaking the motor back in. Will be on the dyno in the next 2-3 weeks I hope. Maybe it will make a little more power. I just want it to stay together
Car made 937/842 on old setup with about 20-21# and 21 degrees timing. Stopped turning timing up as the crappy heads wouldn't stay down
370" iron block
Wiseco -3.2cc pistons, regular wrist pins
Callies compstar rods
Stock crank
head studs
main studs
Ls9 gaskets
Ls3 heads decked .35 (were lifting)
custom Tick Performance blower cam
stock ls3 intake with 90mm TB
Procharger 4" intercooler and 3" pipes
F1A blower with 4.13" pulley
8.65" CBR crank pulley
Aster bracket
no filter
Made about 20-21#
1 7/8" texas speed headers into texas speed true duals with no mufflers
Squash dual 450's, -8 PTFE line to and from, 160# injectors
E85 fuel
9", M6 with Monster LT!-SC twin disc
New Setup:
All the above stayed the same besides
K1 stock stoke crank
upgraded wrist pins
Texas speed PRC 260cc heads with hollow intake valves
I just got it back together and am in the process of breaking the motor back in. Will be on the dyno in the next 2-3 weeks I hope. Maybe it will make a little more power. I just want it to stay together
08-30-2015, 07:12 AM
#5
TECH Enthusiast
Good luck on the new build. I just went thru the same crap....(flexed a compstar crank at 900rwhp).
Took me 7 months to rebuild due to the 4 month wait on a Dragsonslayer..
You got yours done pretty quick in only 3 months.
Can't wait to see your track numbers.
Took me 7 months to rebuild due to the 4 month wait on a Dragsonslayer..
You got yours done pretty quick in only 3 months.
Can't wait to see your track numbers.
08-30-2015, 10:54 PM
#6
Good to see you got it back together. Very interested to see what you make.
This is the 3rd compstar crank I've seen that has bit the dust. Two others broke theirs. Wait time sucks! Guy brought one to a shop while I was there and he ordered it back in May/June. Definitely will jump to the dragonslayer on my next build
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09-01-2015, 04:22 PM
#8
Good to see you got it back together. Very interested to see what you make.
This is the 3rd compstar crank I've seen that has bit the dust. Two others broke theirs. Wait time sucks! Guy brought one to a shop while I was there and he ordered it back in May/June. Definitely will jump to the dragonslayer on my next build
This is the 3rd compstar crank I've seen that has bit the dust. Two others broke theirs. Wait time sucks! Guy brought one to a shop while I was there and he ordered it back in May/June. Definitely will jump to the dragonslayer on my next build
09-01-2015, 05:15 PM
#9
TECH Addict
Yeah, and what part of triple digit power makes any company's mediocre line sound like a good idea?
You get what you pay for. And if you're planning on surpassing the capabilities of oem components, then you should probably bite the bullet and buy the good stuff, so you only have to buy it once.
Or don't. It's your choice.
It's pretty simple, really. If you can't afford the premium parts, you can't afford that power level. Bunches of people trying to build Bentley's on Chrysler 300 budgets, and wondering why they fail.
Sorry. Rant over.
You get what you pay for. And if you're planning on surpassing the capabilities of oem components, then you should probably bite the bullet and buy the good stuff, so you only have to buy it once.
Or don't. It's your choice.
It's pretty simple, really. If you can't afford the premium parts, you can't afford that power level. Bunches of people trying to build Bentley's on Chrysler 300 budgets, and wondering why they fail.
Sorry. Rant over.
09-01-2015, 10:31 PM
#10
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Good to see you got it back together. Very interested to see what you make.
This is the 3rd compstar crank I've seen that has bit the dust. Two others broke theirs. Wait time sucks! Guy brought one to a shop while I was there and he ordered it back in May/June. Definitely will jump to the dragonslayer on my next build
This is the 3rd compstar crank I've seen that has bit the dust. Two others broke theirs. Wait time sucks! Guy brought one to a shop while I was there and he ordered it back in May/June. Definitely will jump to the dragonslayer on my next build
About 6800ish. I forgot to mention I swapped out the ls7 lifters for a set of Morel's so that should help everything be stable at higher RPM's.
09-01-2015, 10:38 PM
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Yeah, and what part of triple digit power makes any company's mediocre line sound like a good idea?
You get what you pay for. And if you're planning on surpassing the capabilities of oem components, then you should probably bite the bullet and buy the good stuff, so you only have to buy it once.
Or don't. It's your choice.
It's pretty simple, really. If you can't afford the premium parts, you can't afford that power level. Bunches of people trying to build Bentley's on Chrysler 300 budgets, and wondering why they fail.
Sorry. Rant over.
You get what you pay for. And if you're planning on surpassing the capabilities of oem components, then you should probably bite the bullet and buy the good stuff, so you only have to buy it once.
Or don't. It's your choice.
It's pretty simple, really. If you can't afford the premium parts, you can't afford that power level. Bunches of people trying to build Bentley's on Chrysler 300 budgets, and wondering why they fail.
Sorry. Rant over.
09-01-2015, 10:58 PM
#12
Yeah, and what part of triple digit power makes any company's mediocre line sound like a good idea?
You get what you pay for. And if you're planning on surpassing the capabilities of oem components, then you should probably bite the bullet and buy the good stuff, so you only have to buy it once.
Or don't. It's your choice.
It's pretty simple, really. If you can't afford the premium parts, you can't afford that power level. Bunches of people trying to build Bentley's on Chrysler 300 budgets, and wondering why they fail.
Sorry. Rant over.
You get what you pay for. And if you're planning on surpassing the capabilities of oem components, then you should probably bite the bullet and buy the good stuff, so you only have to buy it once.
Or don't. It's your choice.
It's pretty simple, really. If you can't afford the premium parts, you can't afford that power level. Bunches of people trying to build Bentley's on Chrysler 300 budgets, and wondering why they fail.
Sorry. Rant over.
Greg anytime your ready to trade for the turbo car let me know haha. Can't wait to see this thing in person.
09-02-2015, 09:18 AM
#13
Yeah, and what part of triple digit power makes any company's mediocre line sound like a good idea?
You get what you pay for. And if you're planning on surpassing the capabilities of oem components, then you should probably bite the bullet and buy the good stuff, so you only have to buy it once.
Or don't. It's your choice.
It's pretty simple, really. If you can't afford the premium parts, you can't afford that power level. Bunches of people trying to build Bentley's on Chrysler 300 budgets, and wondering why they fail.
Sorry. Rant over.
You get what you pay for. And if you're planning on surpassing the capabilities of oem components, then you should probably bite the bullet and buy the good stuff, so you only have to buy it once.
Or don't. It's your choice.
It's pretty simple, really. If you can't afford the premium parts, you can't afford that power level. Bunches of people trying to build Bentley's on Chrysler 300 budgets, and wondering why they fail.
Sorry. Rant over.
Last edited by oscs; 09-02-2015 at 09:29 AM.
09-02-2015, 12:23 PM
#14
TECH Addict
I don't have a problem with mid level items. Mid level items are all I can ever expect to afford.
Nor did I ever say that you can't get triple digit power out of oem components.
I simply stated that if you plan on building a motor, specifically with the intentions to surpass the oem equipment, then there is no point buying budget aftermarket parts.
Sure, many aftermarket companies offer spectacular forged crankshafts. And many of them also have a more "budget friendly" offering, as well. And that aforementioned mediocre aftermarket crank is going to have all the same cost saving shortcuts as the stock crank, so why bother?
The purpose of buying aftermarket parts is for better materials and more attention put into every part... as in not mass-produced, oem assembly line. So why would you buy the cheap aftermarket stuff when you are already planning on surpassing the capabilities of the original equipment?
Sure, we can't all afford what's his name, Bryant(?), badass billet crankshafts, or even magnum xl cranks, for that matter. But if you think you have what it takes to build/handle/drive a motor that exceeds the capabilities of the original equipment... Then you better be able to afford it. Start saving, rob a bank, sell a child, it doesn't matter. But don't pay good money for mediocre aftermarket parts.
Nor did I ever say that you can't get triple digit power out of oem components.
I simply stated that if you plan on building a motor, specifically with the intentions to surpass the oem equipment, then there is no point buying budget aftermarket parts.
Sure, many aftermarket companies offer spectacular forged crankshafts. And many of them also have a more "budget friendly" offering, as well. And that aforementioned mediocre aftermarket crank is going to have all the same cost saving shortcuts as the stock crank, so why bother?
The purpose of buying aftermarket parts is for better materials and more attention put into every part... as in not mass-produced, oem assembly line. So why would you buy the cheap aftermarket stuff when you are already planning on surpassing the capabilities of the original equipment?
Sure, we can't all afford what's his name, Bryant(?), badass billet crankshafts, or even magnum xl cranks, for that matter. But if you think you have what it takes to build/handle/drive a motor that exceeds the capabilities of the original equipment... Then you better be able to afford it. Start saving, rob a bank, sell a child, it doesn't matter. But don't pay good money for mediocre aftermarket parts.
09-02-2015, 02:42 PM
#15
I don't have a problem with mid level items. Mid level items are all I can ever expect to afford.
Nor did I ever say that you can't get triple digit power out of oem components.
I simply stated that if you plan on building a motor, specifically with the intentions to surpass the oem equipment, then there is no point buying budget aftermarket parts.
Sure, many aftermarket companies offer spectacular forged crankshafts. And many of them also have a more "budget friendly" offering, as well. And that aforementioned mediocre aftermarket crank is going to have all the same cost saving shortcuts as the stock crank, so why bother?
The purpose of buying aftermarket parts is for better materials and more attention put into every part... as in not mass-produced, oem assembly line. So why would you buy the cheap aftermarket stuff when you are already planning on surpassing the capabilities of the original equipment?
Sure, we can't all afford what's his name, Bryant(?), badass billet crankshafts, or even magnum xl cranks, for that matter. But if you think you have what it takes to build/handle/drive a motor that exceeds the capabilities of the original equipment... Then you better be able to afford it. Start saving, rob a bank, sell a child, it doesn't matter. But don't pay good money for mediocre aftermarket parts.
Nor did I ever say that you can't get triple digit power out of oem components.
I simply stated that if you plan on building a motor, specifically with the intentions to surpass the oem equipment, then there is no point buying budget aftermarket parts.
Sure, many aftermarket companies offer spectacular forged crankshafts. And many of them also have a more "budget friendly" offering, as well. And that aforementioned mediocre aftermarket crank is going to have all the same cost saving shortcuts as the stock crank, so why bother?
The purpose of buying aftermarket parts is for better materials and more attention put into every part... as in not mass-produced, oem assembly line. So why would you buy the cheap aftermarket stuff when you are already planning on surpassing the capabilities of the original equipment?
Sure, we can't all afford what's his name, Bryant(?), badass billet crankshafts, or even magnum xl cranks, for that matter. But if you think you have what it takes to build/handle/drive a motor that exceeds the capabilities of the original equipment... Then you better be able to afford it. Start saving, rob a bank, sell a child, it doesn't matter. But don't pay good money for mediocre aftermarket parts.
With that said.. I wouldn't put one in my car (thought about it for a long time) but understand why people do. My money would go to a dragonslayer as they are not priced that much higher and have a turn key US manufacturing process.
Last edited by oscs; 09-02-2015 at 02:58 PM.
09-02-2015, 03:10 PM
#16
TECH Addict
The price difference between the mediocre line and the dragonslayer, in this case, isn't big enough to warrant cheaping out on a big power build. It is just not sensible to buy the lesser of the two when your plans are for power.
Entry-level forged crankshafts, in my under-educated opinion, are for high rpm, naturally aspirated applications.
Big boy crankshafts for big boy power. You get what you pay for. You have to pay to play. However you want to say it. There are varying levels of parts for various levels of builds, and when you are already planning on 1000 horsepower as a minimum bar for success, you should be planning on using the upper tier of available parts.
Once again, that is just my over-voiced, under-educated opinion.
Entry-level forged crankshafts, in my under-educated opinion, are for high rpm, naturally aspirated applications.
Big boy crankshafts for big boy power. You get what you pay for. You have to pay to play. However you want to say it. There are varying levels of parts for various levels of builds, and when you are already planning on 1000 horsepower as a minimum bar for success, you should be planning on using the upper tier of available parts.
Once again, that is just my over-voiced, under-educated opinion.
09-02-2015, 03:21 PM
#17
The price difference between the mediocre line and the dragonslayer, in this case, isn't big enough to warrant cheaping out on a big power build. It is just not sensible to buy the lesser of the two when your plans are for power.
Entry-level forged crankshafts, in my under-educated opinion, are for high rpm, naturally aspirated applications.
Big boy crankshafts for big boy power. You get what you pay for. You have to pay to play. However you want to say it. There are varying levels of parts for various levels of builds, and when you are already planning on 1000 horsepower as a minimum bar for success, you should be planning on using the upper tier of available parts.
Once again, that is just my over-voiced, under-educated opinion.
Entry-level forged crankshafts, in my under-educated opinion, are for high rpm, naturally aspirated applications.
Big boy crankshafts for big boy power. You get what you pay for. You have to pay to play. However you want to say it. There are varying levels of parts for various levels of builds, and when you are already planning on 1000 horsepower as a minimum bar for success, you should be planning on using the upper tier of available parts.
Once again, that is just my over-voiced, under-educated opinion.
It is a good opinion and i think we are hitting on the same points here. One thing to consider which i was going to reference earlier but was to lazy to type it all out is the application. The entry level cranks are great for N/A stuff but also work really well in a turbo application as Turbo chargers are by far the easiest on components in the FI world. By no means would i or any reputable builder recommend a "mediocre" crankshaft for a 4 digit S/C build.
09-02-2015, 08:25 PM
#18
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It is a good opinion and i think we are hitting on the same points here. One thing to consider which i was going to reference earlier but was to lazy to type it all out is the application. The entry level cranks are great for N/A stuff but also work really well in a turbo application as Turbo chargers are by far the easiest on components in the FI world. By no means would i or any reputable builder recommend a "mediocre" crankshaft for a 4 digit S/C build.
09-02-2015, 08:48 PM
#20
370/F1A round 2
Originally Posted by speedfreak2685
Ill be testing this theory haha. I should be close to the 4 digit club this go round. When I talked to K1 about their crank for my build they said I would have no issue. We shall see.