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So whats the strongest aluminum block?

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Old 11-25-2015, 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Honeycutt
Meh, like you said, that's an opinion. The caps will start moving around the 4 digit mark, 1000hp is not the magic number where you start lifting heads, there are more than a handful of people making over 1000hp on a 4 bolt block. Pinning the mains is a minimal cost compared to an LSX block.

ok...

Last edited by oscs; 11-25-2015 at 10:15 PM.
Old 11-25-2015, 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by LJMSJohn
ZR1 was an LS9 block

Alot of differences in an LS9 block and an LS3 block...

LS9 has oil squirters, LS3 does not

LS9 has 12mm head fasteners LS3 has 11

LS9 has steel main caps, LS3 does not.

Theres more but thats 3 off the top of my head.


LS9 is the strongest stock aluminum block.... followed by a later 5.3 block/LS3/LS2.
Is their an actual casting difference you can think of? Literature suggest the block is a 6.2 cast production block.
Old 11-25-2015, 10:26 PM
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I've seen some reports or different alloy for the ls9 and some not. Heads are rotocast and the billet mains are also alignment doweled. It would be nice to get a solid answer on the block material.

Last edited by slowride; 11-25-2015 at 10:47 PM.
Old 11-25-2015, 10:27 PM
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Billet.... I have/had one
Old 11-25-2015, 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by slowride
I've seen some reports or different alloy for the ls9 and some not. Heads are rotocast and the billet mains are also doweled. It would be nice to get a solid answer on the block material.
Also heard the rumor of using 1 block for cost sometime in 09/10... that would suggest a late 5.3 having the extra reinforcement, small thicker liners in ls3 case.

Last edited by TT427; 11-25-2015 at 10:46 PM.
Old 11-26-2015, 06:02 AM
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It would be nice if someone could define "late" by year when speaking of the 5.3 blocks.
Thanks
Old 11-26-2015, 06:32 AM
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Originally Posted by LJMSJohn
ZR1 was an LS9 block

Alot of differences in an LS9 block and an LS3 block...

LS9 has oil squirters, LS3 does not

LS9 has 12mm head fasteners LS3 has 11

LS9 has steel main caps, LS3 does not.

Theres more but thats 3 off the top of my head.


LS9 is the strongest stock aluminum block.... followed by a later 5.3 block/LS3/LS2.
The oil squirters are an add on, as are the bigger head fasterners, steel main caps can be considered an add on as well that you can go to billet mains if you wanted to for an ls3. I thought he was just asking about the actual block casting.

When I was looking at my options last year, I wanted to stay aluminum for the weight, and I wanted the extra cubes for low end torque. I tried to read up as much as I could on the differences in the ls9/lsa/ls3 blocks, and didn't see much differences in the castings or strength, it was the extra add ons after the fact that were different.

For me, I don't see myself ever exceeding 1000rwhp, so the ls3 is the route I chose.
Old 11-26-2015, 06:51 AM
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I believe 08 and newer is designated lc9
Old 11-26-2015, 07:10 AM
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Originally Posted by RonSSNova
It would be nice if someone could define "late" by year when speaking of the 5.3 blocks.
Thanks
Well Ron if you looked on the right front facing of the block you'll see a casting number. I was informed this info by Racing Engine Development . The two casting numbers that I know that will work for resleeving are 12571048 and 12571043. I have the one that ends with 48.....
It's came out in 2006-2009 trucks, Tahoes, Yukons, and a couple other vehicles . All aluminum 5.3 blocks are not sleeveble . I've brought this up more than once as I plan on building a 430 plus cube motor.
Old 11-26-2015, 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Tuskyz28
Well Ron if you looked on the right front facing of the block you'll see a casting number. I was informed this info by Racing Engine Development . The two casting numbers that I know that will work for resleeving are 12571048 and 12571043. I have the one that ends with 48.....
It's came out in 2006-2009 trucks, Tahoes, Yukons, and a couple other vehicles . All aluminum 5.3 blocks are not sleeveble . I've brought this up more than once as I plan on building a 430 plus cube motor.
Hey, thanks.
I have an 06 L33.
I'd like to eventually find another block for a spare. Just in case.....
No desire to sleeve though.
:-)

http://www.ls-guy.com/geniv

This guide is pretty handy

Last edited by RonSSNova; 11-26-2015 at 08:34 PM.
Old 11-27-2015, 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by The Alchemist
The oil squirters are an add on, as are the bigger head fasterners, steel main caps can be considered an add on as well that you can go to billet mains if you wanted to for an ls3. I thought he was just asking about the actual block casting.

When I was looking at my options last year, I wanted to stay aluminum for the weight, and I wanted the extra cubes for low end torque. I tried to read up as much as I could on the differences in the ls9/lsa/ls3 blocks, and didn't see much differences in the castings or strength, it was the extra add ons after the fact that were different.

For me, I don't see myself ever exceeding 1000rwhp, so the ls3 is the route I chose.
Im kind of where you were. I dont want a crazy 1200 hp car i just want to have a fast street car but why not start with the best factory block. I like the added cubes for a street car also.
Old 11-27-2015, 08:07 AM
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Also for you more race/bad *** street cars you can half fill or full fill the block with hard block. Makes those aluminum blocks strong!!
Old 11-27-2015, 08:23 AM
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If you go have the block sleeved.... go with a 5.3 aluminum block. Best bang for the buck as they can be had for around 300 bucks. Ray Litz and the Ohio boys all run those blocks to power they cars to 7s in the quarter mile.
Old 11-27-2015, 02:59 PM
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Originally Posted by jleews6
So what is the designation for these later 5.3 motors ? Are they still called the L33?
LH8 doesn't have VVT or AFM. LH9 has both VVT and AFM. Came in H3s and 5.3L Colorado pick-ups. Not super common.

Andrew

Last edited by Project GatTagO; 12-23-2015 at 05:19 PM.
Old 12-21-2015, 04:00 PM
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2008-2009 Canyon/Colorado/Hummer H3 were available with the LH8 which doesn't have VVT or DOD. 2010-2012 was the LH9 and had VVT, no DOD. Only full size trucks with the 5.3 had DOD and/or VVT depending on year. Very few 5.3s were put into the 355 series trucks, and I'm glad I got one.
Old 12-22-2015, 08:45 PM
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i have one of those late 5.3 blocks sitting around. whats the most inches i can get out of it?

i did some reading lately and it seemed to me the lsa was a good bet. its a different(stronger) alloy than the ls2/3 blocks, has cast in liners instead of pressed in, and comes with squirters
http://www.ctsvowners.com/forum/4-en...tml#post310191
Old 12-23-2015, 02:40 AM
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The LS9 block is superior mainly due to the clamping force of the head bolts. 120 ft/lbs with ARP 12mm bolts can contain much more cylinder pressure than a 5.3. It is also cast from a better grade aluminum, billet main caps, plus piston squirters which evens out the temps in them vs more heat in the center without. Lastly you can run a larger valve being 4.065" bore.

I made over 1200rwhp with a stock LS1 crank, Compstar rods in one. But then again.... it doesn't cost $500
Old 12-23-2015, 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by jleews6
Im kind of where you were. I dont want a crazy 1200 hp car i just want to have a fast street car but why not start with the best factory block. I like the added cubes for a street car also.
What kind of power levels are you talking about...? If you just want a "quick street car" any alum LS block will likely be fine. You don't need "the strongest OEM block". You could run an aftermarket block and rotating assy for less than the cost of an LS9 long block.
Old 12-23-2015, 10:33 AM
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i have alotta confidence in my ls3 block.. wouldnt worry about makin 1k wheel
Old 12-23-2015, 05:48 PM
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I'm at north of 860rwhp with my ls3/f1a combo. Figure the drivetrain loss, plus the power to spin the blower, and it's doing ok. That was at 10.6:1afr and 14.5 degrees of timing, so it's pretty conservative.


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