Lil'John

Title states the purpose. Now for the details.

Target vehicle is a 1972 Toyota Land Cruiser(FJ55 model) that will be similar to this:


Here is a 6.0L LQ4 stabbed in the above. This will show how tight the engine bay is.


Drivetrain will be:
5.3L engine from 2004 Silverado
4l80e transmission build to 2004 needs (HD input, etc) Stock converter.
Planetary doubler (~2.7 reduction)
Gear driven transfer case (~2.3 reduction)
Dana axles with 4.88 gears
37" to 40" tires

Use:
Daily driving thus desire for turbo
Technical rock crawling (not rock racing, no mudding, maybe snow)

Starting goals:
I want to hit ~500hp at the rear tires on 91 octane pump gas.

Eventual goal:
See how much I can squeeze out of it on 91 octane pump gas.

Known engine information:
Pulled from 2004 Silverado with ~160k miles.
862 heads.
Round coils
Currently stripped to short block

Needed help:
Short block
Going with forged rods and pistons for extra safety margin:
Pistons: WISECO/LJMS BUILT forged 3.8"
Rods: CALLIES COMP STAR
Cam : LJMS Truck Stage 2 Cam (212/218 .553/.553)

Heads
As noted above, I have the 862 heads. From the reading I've done, they don't appear to be bad heads.

Is there a preferred upgrade springs? <s>After lots of searching, bought PAC 1218.</s> I still had some concern over the PAC springs so I went with LJMS recommended BTR Platinum set.
Any other work I should have done at the machine shop? (need to have exhaust bolt removed )

What about head studs? Is ARP the ones to get? alper on ebay

Hot side
Using passenger side Trick Performance turbo manifold.

Unknown driver side manifold.

Intake
Because the target is going to be "show-n-go", the truck or TBSS manifolds don't fit the bill for me. I can fit them but they look like hell.

Intake is Holley Mid-Riser manifold plus using the 417 intercooler.

Injectors
Is 80lb the correct size? Any must use brands? Deka 80lbs

Throttle Body
What is a good throttle body to go with for the above intake? I have no problem doing drive by wire or cable. Currently, I have stock 2004 drive by wire throttle body.

The green one is using the drive by wire and isn't too bad. Drive by wire does make adding cruise control easier though

MAF
Is the stock MAF the way to go? Is it worth imbedding the stock MAF into some tubing?

Turbo
Will the VS Racing 7875 hit my goals with some room to grow? Basically, I'm looking for a fairly quick spool up. Based upon Dennon's Canyon build, VS Racing 7875 on order.

Fuel Pump
I will be getting a custom tank. The green one above got a 99 Camaro fuel assembly.

Is starting with this assembly worth doing?

Coils
I've currently got a set of "truck round" coils. Is it worth upgrading or replacing them?

Tuning
Is there any good turbo tuners in the Sacramento area? I will have the "stock" 2004 Silverado PCM and would like to work from there.

denmah

iTrader: (2)

https://sites.google.com/site/sloppy...unkyardturbols

Lil'John

Denmah,
Thanks for the link. Somehow in all the scouring of the FAQs and builds, I missed it.

In it, you listed the On 3 76mm turbo. In a recent build you used 7875. Do you like the 7875 over the On?

I was looking at a hot side similar to the one you did in the Colorado. Basically putting the turbo up high.

Lil'John

Small update after more research. I've bought the following:
Springs: PAC 1218
Head studs: alper on ebay.
Injectors: Deka 80lbs
Turbo: VS Racing 7875

Getting the above nailed down allows me to focus on what are some "must do" things to the long block:


The main reason it is getting taken down to a block is to refresh the 160k miles off it.

So I'm still looking for some input on the long block:
Should I just run a hone down the cylinders and replace the bearings?

Do I need to do anything with the pistons or rings?

I've also heard don't bother with rod bolts. Any need to upgrade the rods?

Any other work I should have done at the machine shop for peace of mind?

gnx7

iTrader: (28)

Do a leakdown test. If they are even I would leave the bottom end alone as long as the bores look good for under 600rwhp.

gtfoxy

Yeah, do a leak down & go from there.

I've ran 68-72mm turbos on stock 5.3's. Being on a truck with stock converter you want it to spool fast. Swapped a 70mm .96A/R undivided for a 72mm 1.0A/R divided & picked up about 3-400rpm quicker spool (~3200rpm vs ~3600)on a stock converter in a 4x4 Silverado. Flowed about 20lb/min more than the 70 on the top-end.

The 68mm I had would hit 9psi @2800-3,000 with a .96A/R undivided. That was with a stock v-6 converter.

Lil'John

gnx7 and gtfoxy, thanks for the input. I pulled the engine apart to short block in order to get it out of the back of the truck so I couldn't get a leak down check

From the input so far, it sounds like I should have no problem maxing out HP on pump gas using a rebuilt long block with head studs and valve springs.

indyjax88

iTrader: (2)

I would replace their rod bolts if yo are going to have everything apart. I know the argument with 5.3's are that they are cheap and just replace the short block if you scatter it but if you are planning to invest in a hone and rings might as well have the piece of mind. Just my $0.02 worth... I really like where you are going with the build. It should be really reliable and make plenty of usable power. Keep the build updates coming!

Black89Z51

iTrader: (2)

Rod bolts are completely pointless in a build like this. The only thing you need rod bolts for are if you are going to spin the motor to the moon.

gtfoxy

You can do the leak down with it in the truck.

How much HP you want to make on pump is all in the tune & you are using water/alcohol injection.

I have used it before but I try to tune safely without it. Pumps fail, relays fail, tanks run dry, etc. If any of that happens on an unsafe tune it is going to get ugly fast.

denmah

iTrader: (2)

yep i do like the 7875 better now
youll easily be able to hit your goal

gtfoxy

Ever ran that turbo or a 7675 on a stock converter? If so, what size turbine housing?

Lil'John

gtfoxy, I think you missed that the engine was in the back of my S10 after I bought it. In order for me to manhandle it out of the back, I had to remove the heads Due to weather, I had to get it out of the back in VERY short order... like same day I bought it. So right now, I've got an 5.3L engine scattered across my garage and in the cargo area of the cruiser

The short block looked to be in relative good condition aside from heavy carbon on top of the pistons. I can still see the stock cross-hatching in the cylinders. The crank turns over by hand VERY easily and smoothly. I pulled a rod cap off and the bearings and crank surface looked nice.

A few pre-Christmas packages got me the following:

The intake is a Holley "mid rise" intake. The injectors are 80lbs Deka.

I then decided at least for version #1 of this project, I'll use the truck drive-by-wire throttle body... so at the front of the intake is an adapter to use the truck throttle body.

With the turbo in hand, I was able to do two test mountings to verify some measurements.

In test #1, I checked the passenger side:

It appears to be a good fit so I'm hoping that I can run a Trick Performance cast manifold. Unfortunately, no reply yet to my request for dimensions

In test #2, I put it up top to see if I could fit it between the crank and core support:

It shows I can do a variation of the "truck manifold" swap.

gtfoxy

If it's in pieces just have the chambers vacuum checked to double check the valve seat seal. Did you say you were regapping the rings at all?

What A/R turbine did you go with?

Lil'John

I'm still on the fence with taking the long block to a machine shop for a refresh to stock specs and repair needed parts.

For the rings, it was more of a question of "should I re-gap the rings for a turbo engine?". If I haul the engine to a machine shop, I'll upgrade any parts that would be good to upgrade.

On the turbo, I bought just a standard VS Racing 78/75inducer .96ar T4:
http://www.vsracing.net/catalog/prod...oducts_id=1331

For the first version of the engine, I'm going to leave it as I bought it. I'll run a few miles on it and see what adjustments I need to make.

The vehicle is going to be a "go and show" type setup. The "show" side is going to be the engine bay. The body is going to be clean but have a "cheap" Maaco paint job

gtfoxy

I will be interested to see how it works out for you. Keep us posted.

The need to open the rings up a bit all depends on how hard you are going to push it.

Lil'John

I'll definitely keep some updates going.

I just ordered up a 417 water/air cooler for the Holley intake. I'm still deciding on the radiator. I think my choice will be a 12"x12"x2" or 24"x12"x1".

I also ordered up TIAL 44mm wastegate and 50mm BOV.

Yeah, I know... cheapie turbo and then hi quality supporting parts.

My starting goal is 500hp at the rear wheels on 91 pump gas. From my reading, my goal is a "no turbo needed" goal and wasn't really worthy of a turbo

Once I hit that as my starting point and put a few miles on it, I am going to see how far I can push a tune on 91 pump gas with no adders(meth/water/etc) while keeping the tune conservative. Based upon denmah's Colorado, it sounds like I can do about 650 before I get to questionable reliability.

Lil'John

I thought I'd bring this up from the grave for some more input.

I went with the Trick Performance exhaust manifold and did a "half-***" mockup to gain some confidence in fitting.

Here is the whole package from the front:


Here is from the passenger side:


The driver manifold will be either the truck manifold or some other stock manifold. It depends upon any fitment issues on the driverside.

One question I have is what do I do about o2 sensors? The driver side seems fairly obvious. The passenger side isn't as obvious. Any suggestions?

The engine is currently at the machine shop getting gone through. Should I do forged parts in the bottom end such as rods and pistons?

gtfoxy

On the O2's, if tick has a preffered place they have found works well on their log then go by where they say. I personaly put it just past where the last runner comes to the collestor @ 8 or 4 oclock, looking down at the turbine flange. I usualy place mine by the manifold on the down manifold side at 10 or 2.

Maybe some other guys have different experiences, but I seem to get good readings there.

One thing to remember, and its not that big of a deal, especially if the micro is a batch fire, is that the pass side will be sampling both banks.

Lil'John

Thank you for the feedback gtfoxy.

What you note is the concern I have: the passenger side will be getting a sniff of both banks.