vht

06, 6.0, rod bolt torque. Do you all do the 15 ft lbs, and then 73 degrees? All I have is 1 of those torq angle deals where you have to support the rod against something solid and hope nothing moves. I still have the stk rod bolts, would you recommend ARP's since I got it down? I hate to mess with them with out having the big end cked after installing the bolts. I pulled the pistons to regap rings. Opinions please.

alocker

iTrader: (10)

JFR recommended new stock bolts. Unless your spinning it to the moon aftermarket is not needed. I go 15 ft/lbs then eyeball a bit less than 90 degrees. With the piston at the bottom of the bore nothing moves when torquing them down.

vht

I've done the eye ball deal. I was talking about the gauge moving, or the rod that holds it. It's kinda a screwed up deal trying to use it. I guess on the bolts you do one at a time and shouldn't affect the big end of the rod. Do you just go to a dealer, or you got a link?

ringgold

I had a link, but with the newer style rods with the floating wrist pins, it should be 15ft lbs of torque initially and then 85 degrees. Ive heard of people reusing the stock rod bolts a few times with out problems.

vht

Mine has the floating pins, good to know. I found a couple of deals on ebay. Factory bolts sold separately, I sent them a message and asked about a price on 16. I'll call a dealer tomorrow and see what my cost is.

sbcgenII

iTrader: (1)

Use a paint pen and mark the bolts. Do you know what 90* looks like?

ls3fox

Hope this helps

alocker

iTrader: (10)

Tooley racing has the rod bolts for a good price.

JoeNova

I always just reuse mine.

Use a breaker bar for the 85 degree turn. They flex a bit. So turn it 90* and when you let off, it will unflex about 5%.

spray280

iTrader: (5)

I've torqued them 20 1st pass 45 2nd pass. 5.3 ran 15-27lbs of boost, bearings looked
new when engine was pulled. These were stock reused

vht

If its 85, then thats great. I'll go 90 and be done. I'd rather put new in it the way my luck goes. I'll ck tooley out, that's where I'm going to order my spring kit. Thanks for the info.

forcd ind

iTrader: (7)

I was going to reuse mine, but since the block was at the machine shop, I took the rods there and had them install ARP bolts, and ck the big end-they were still perfect after install-with cracked rods maybe they are more forgiving

alocker

iTrader: (10)

It's a controversial subject but I think you may be right about the cracked rods. I researched the crap out of this and still did not have a clear answer. That's why I went with new stock bolts. If the motor was apart getting machined, ARP would be the way to go.

twinturbo496

iTrader: (2)

A low torque + angle is a far more reliable method of obtaining the correct stretch on almost any fastener than a single higher torque rating. The angle of the treads and rotation can be fairly accurately predicted compared to the mating surface finish, thread lubrication, etc, that can have as much as a 50% influence on actual stretch for a single high torque value.

A straight torque number on a bolt will result in a much wider variation in final stretched length than any possible movement in the angle meter. The best method is to actually measure the bolt stretch, but that isn't really practical with most bolted joints.