Arsenal

iTrader: (2)

I have a 99 Z28 with 102,000 miles. The car is a six speed and 100% stock. I am in the process of building a custom turbo kit for it. I have always loved Camaros and owned many of them through the years. This is the first one I have had the time and more importantly the money to build up. I am no expert and really have no clue what I am doing but in the end I hope to have one bad a$$ car!

Current list of parts I have

S475 Turbo T6 didvide (I am running it as a twin scroll)
2.5" custom built crossover pipe
5" down pipe that will exit the front bumper
Texas speed cam kit complete with dual springs
Racetronix dual 255 fuel pump kit
60# Seimen deka injectors
Fuel lab pressure regulator
Dual Deray fans
EBay intercooler and 2.5" pipe
Wastgates x2
BOV

And more I'm sure im forgetting

What I started with








I am far from done but here is my progress so far

Arsenal

iTrader: (2)

I hope to have the build complete by July.

More pictures

MM98

iTrader: (13)

For having no clue what you're doing, I'd say it looks damn good so far. Keep up the good work & post more pics along the way.

Arsenal

iTrader: (2)

Got more done on the car. Mounted the radiator and got my intercooler piping in.






I decided to grid down the flange on my turbo and use a 3.5" coupler to the intercooler piping

boostedxs

Looking good my dude! just planning on running lower boost I assume? either way, as mentioned above doing decent for your first time. I'm just finishing up my first turbo ls build but I'm not new to the forced induction game. the beauty of this site is all the fi guys on here are usually willing to share a ton of knowledge

Arsenal

iTrader: (2)

Yeah I'm not building for max boost. It will take some time before I can afford to get the car to where it can handle alot of power. I just want to get the turbo installed and running for the summer so i can go have some fun with it. Hopefully this winter work on the tranny and rear end.

zrultima

What K member are u using??

Arsenal

iTrader: (2)

I just have the stock K member and notched it to fit the manifold.

Arsenal

iTrader: (2)

Well I know its been awhile since I lasted posted but I haven't for gotten about my thread. I plan to see this to the end. Originally I was planning on keeping this thing on a budget, but that has gone rite out the window. Not to say I have money to burn but I am taking more time with the build than I planed so I can afford to do more. I have put a few parts into the motor cam, springs, push rods. I also have been cleaning up the engine bay. Rite now I am working on (I sent in) the T56 for a rebuild by Tick Performance. I was going to do the work my self and bought all new bearings syncros and a upgrade kit and a few gears. Basically I am getting the level 2 package with upgrades. Getting the internals cryo-treated and have bungs and sprayers installed. I hope to have it back in about 3-4 weeks. In the mean time I have also started on putting in the fuel pumps. Her is another list of parts I have bought. Not everything is installed.

EGR delete for intake manifold
Texas Speed Cam 216/220 110LSA, PRC .650" Dual spring kit w/titanium retainers, 7.4" push rods
Fuel Lab fuel pressure regulator
Fuel Lab fuel pressure gauge
Exhaust beauty ring
Mr. Gasket swivel thermostat housing
Weld on O2 bungs
High them paint, Manifolds
Red paint for frame of car
MGW Short throw shifter
T56 Rebuild package
T56 1st/2nd gear solid billet keys and springs
Spec stage 3 Clutch and billet fly wheel
Spohn solid motor mounts
Manifold gasket
Body fastener
Turbo oil drain line parts & hose
T56 Bearing kit
T56 5th gear
T56 Reverse gear
T56 tail shaft bushing
T56 5th/6th solid billet keys and springs
T56 snap ring kit
T56 5th/6th Bronze shift fork pads
T56 Reverse spring, Shipping for gears and parts
Slave throw-out bearing
T56 5th/6th Synchronizer Assembly
T56 3rd/4th Synchronizer Assembly
T56 1st/2nd Synchronizer Assembly
T56 Reverse Synchronizer Assembly
NGK spark plugs, MSD wires
T6 turbo oil feed line and drain kit
Zeitronix Zt-2 nDash Touch Screen Display Bundle

Arsenal

iTrader: (2)

Decided to pull the motor to make all the work esier






The car ready to be cleaned up




I deleted the entire AC system in the car. I cut the box for the fan about 1" to the fire wall and then fiber glassed it so the heater will still work




I had to remove the entire dash to get the fan box out. This is a big chore.




Don't worry I got it all back togeather.

Arsenal

iTrader: (2)

Here are some pics of the engine bay before




Rust starting under were the battery sits






Here is the after. Its not show room quality but its way better than before.




Before I painted I did use sand paper scuff pads and oil/grease remover.




I just used the DuPont color match paint for my car from AutoZone and clear coat. It was all done with rattle cans.




This is everything mostly back together including my altered fan box.

Arsenal

iTrader: (2)

Here are the old valve springs




New Texas Speed valve springs installed




New Texas Speed cam




I cut an access panel to get to my fuel pump rather than removing the entire tank




I went with a Racetronix dual diy pump setup.




Here are some photos of it all fabed up. I cut the bottom of the fuel bucket off. and then riveted the pumps into the bucket. I also had to cut down the top of the fuel pump hanger shoulders to make it fir in the fuel bucket.






I still need to wire everything up and get the wiring installed in the car.

Arsenal

iTrader: (2)

Sorry not a lot of pics of the transmission but like I said I was going to do it my self. I purchased a Hawks upgrade parts kit and was ready to tear into it.




I got the transmission apart and found a lot of wear on the syncro's and some of the gears. So I ordered all new syncro's, two new gears, complete bearing kit, snap ring kit, and a few more upgrade parts. I also bought an MGW short throw shifter. At this point I have quit a bit of money into it and so I decided I might as well go all the way, so I sent it off to Tick to be cryo-treated and have sprayers installed. Hopefully this will be more than enough to handle anything I throw at it.

KyleLanter

iTrader: (2)

Awesome progress man looking good

Arsenal

iTrader: (2)

Thanks.

Unfortunately now I am waiting on parts in the mail so I'll have to find something to do until they get here.

KyleLanter

iTrader: (2)

Seems there is always something to do and at least the parts are on the way. What is the target date to have the car together? Power level you are shooting for?

Arsenal

iTrader: (2)

The target date was July. But originally I was just planning on putting the turbo in and a few mods to support it. Now that I decided to do the transmission and a few other upgrades I'm shooting for October 1st. I should have my transmission back by middle of August. I would like to get between 600 and 650hp at the wheels. I maped it out when I first started and it came out to 640hp.

V-10 Killer

iTrader: (22)

The build is looking really good. I can't wait to see how it turns out.

KyleLanter

iTrader: (2)

Great numbers and you will have it together before you know it. Keep us updated everything is coming together nicely.

Arsenal

iTrader: (2)

Sorry it's been awhile on the updates, but I have been working on my car.




Here is my cheap Chinese 44 mm waste gate, I am running dual waste gates. And yes I know your not suppose to skimp on these but I did. They had some good reviews so will see if it bites me in the butt.




Because I am running cheap wastegates I did disassemble them and inspect them.

My review for Rev9 wastegates. They are cheap in both quality and price. The bad when I took them apart there was metal shavings all over the diaphragm. The shafts were cut pretty rough and the sleeves also that they slide in as well which did not allow for smooth operation. One of the 2 I bought had a the weld on vband clamp for the incoming side out of round so it would not fit together at all. Here is what I did. The shavings were easily washed. I took a Dremel tool and polishing kit to the shafts and sleeves and then put them back together with a light coat of Cooper antisieze, they operate smooth now. I also had to Dremel the v band clamp as well. I did contact the company and let them know about the problem and they did send me out a replacement part rite away at no charge and I did not have to return the bad part, but at the time I thought it was the exhaust doughnut that was bad so that's why I had to fix the vband clamp. Overall they seem like they will work but DO NOT just buy these and put them in without at minimum taking them apart and inspecting them.




Here's the shafts polished. You probably can't really tell they were polished but you can see the rough cut on them.

I will post more up as soon as I have time.

Teaser: I do have the car running and driving