Forced Induction Superchargers | Turbochargers | Intercoolers

65 Chevelle 6.0 single turbo

Old 05-20-2016, 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Cody2white
Thanks for the reply alocker. You suggesting the 83mm? Mind If I ask why your considering in stepping down a size? I mean you said why, but wouldn't it be hard to get any traction with full boost coming on so quick? What if I drop hot side size down to 2.25 instead of 2.5? And yes 4" dp would be doable with my space.
With drag radials I need the power a fast as it can spool to help my 60'. On the street tires it really doesn't matter but I like shiny new things like billet compressor wheels. Overall I want it to be a bit more snappy.

Stay 2.25 on the hotside. You can probably go 2" if you wanted.
Old 05-20-2016, 11:09 AM
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I know everyones setup is different but I really struggle when i see the turbo size blamed in some of these lag situations. So much more goes into it from stall, cam, tuneup, etc.

On a stock bottom end 6.0 with a speed inc tu1.5 cam I made 1004ftlbs at around 3800rpm with a T6 S480 96mm 1.32ar. I would not have wanted that thing to spool any faster. Went 151mph @ 9.0 with some serious back half issues. Did 128mph 1/8th.

All that said an 75/76 83/t4 will totally attain the power goals sought here and then some.

Jose at Forced inductions makes a killer S476 billet wheels t4 that are around $1100-1200. Im running two of them now.
Old 05-23-2016, 06:17 PM
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The ssautochrome manifolds came in. They don't look to bad overall. The welds look really good. But the drivers side vband needs to be moved up an inch. It's hitting my steering box. Think I can get it to bend up with some heat?




Old 05-26-2016, 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Cody2white
The ssautochrome manifolds came in. They don't look to bad overall. The welds look really good. But the drivers side vband needs to be moved up an inch. It's hitting my steering box. Think I can get it to bend up with some heat?
Nope, I would just cut/section and reweld it.

I just attempted modding a stainless header to clear frame on my 65 wagon, ended up using a torch and vice/hammer. Ruined the header.
Old 05-26-2016, 11:39 AM
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You could prob pie cut that end and get it up a little
Old 05-27-2016, 07:24 PM
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I ended up sending the headers back, no reason to ef them up when the seller would refund them. I'm hoping the truck manis are a different story. Anyways since I'm not going ***** to the wall I decided to tone my build down. I know arp studs are nice but for a target goal of a safe 9-13 they won't be a dire need. Same with the turbo. I think I'm going to try the gt45 80mm that I seen some other peeps use. And wastegate I'm going to pick up a eBay one and just check it with an air compressor to make sure it functions. The springs and cam I'll keep even though I could live without them, probably would help more than hurt. I can almost taste the burnt rubber already!
Old 05-28-2016, 08:31 AM
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I would also use modified manifolds. I built a single 2.5"setup with a S480 96/T6 in a '70 chevelle that made 705rwhp @ 15lbs on a 370 with 80E.

I would highly recommend NOT using ebay gates. Do yourself a favor and buy a quality gate like a precision 46mm.
Old 05-31-2016, 04:22 PM
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Advice taken. No reason blow this perfectly fine motor over 150 bucks. You guys suggest just 1 46mm?

Looking at this pcv system. Do I just run a breather catch can? I don't want to over pressurize the crank case.




Picked up a pair of v banded truck manis

Last edited by Cody2white; 06-01-2016 at 04:54 PM.
Old 06-02-2016, 01:43 PM
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I have a bws476 i'd sell you if you're interested. If you're worried about spool build the hot side out of 2.25" pipping.


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