When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Since I don't have the engine ready yet and the front end on it to see where the A2W IC will fit, I thought about this. I kinda like it if it doesn't blow a seam when I start running 25+ psi. What do you guys think?
I really don't think the IC is going to fit anywhere inside the front clip. If I was not running the stock dash, I was going to mount it above the passengers legs under an aluminum dash, but there's not enough room now. I haven't worked on it in the last couple weekends. Thinking about installing the steering shaft. I was waiting to get the engine in it with the headers so I can check for clearance. I also need another brake master.
I really don't think the IC is going to fit anywhere inside the front clip. If I was not running the stock dash, I was going to mount it above the passengers legs under an aluminum dash, but there's not enough room now.
With a truck, I'd think you would want to stuff as much as possible over the rear axle to try and get some weight in the rear. IC core/tank and all.
Have you see the guys that throw the brake master on flexible SS lines so it easily moves out of the way? Saw it on Finnigans garage last week. At the 8 min mark... pretty slick if the headers are a tight fit.
Been a while but I finally got the long block back from the machine shop. So hopefully I can get it in the truck this weekend. I still have to do the trunion upgrade and measure for the pushrods. But once I get it installed I am going to make sure it fires up and then start on the turbo piping.
Finally had some time to get the engine and trany stuck into the truck. Had to relocate the trans cross member that I had already made for the original swap. Also had to make a notch in the frame on the passenger side to make some room for where I had place the turbo drain fitting. I am also going to have to relocate the steering shaft I built for it because the new Jardine up and forward header will not fit right now.
Not a whole lot left to do really. I could have it running this next weekend but I don't think I am going to rush it. I need to get a driveshaft built too. I used the rubber motor mounts for now to help locate the engine in the truck. I will be adding solid mounts later.
Heres a picture of the non turbo configuration.
This turbo setup will be a little work but it will keep almost all the cold side piping inside the truck.
That's kind of the intake setup I have, I used the Holley intake, and the Edelbrock 90 deg-I think I used the next 90 deg up from that one, since I had a 90 MM TB-I drilled and tapped a bunch of spots for vac, boost, cant have enough, lol
Cool project, I had toyed doing an S10
The only thing that bugs me about this intake is the bolts. You use M6 bolts in a hole in the intake designed for 3/8th bolts. So its a huge amount of slop around the bolt and it could let the intake move around. And the kit they sell for them is just set of skinny M6 bolts and bigger flat washers on top. The should offer inserts to take up this slop.
Getting a little closer each weekend that I have time. I have the engine pretty much ready to start. I need to add oil and trany fluid and go over it one more time to be sure its tight. I installed the wideband sensor in a temporary pipe tacked onto the passenger side header.
I got the dash installed which looks ok. I need to lower the steering shaft a little to get a better view of the speedo and tach. Then I had to remove the dash to get ready to chase some wiring. When I hooked up the battery, the trany brake solenoid engages which isn't right. Something is allowing it to ground without the button pressed. Also the wideband and Eboost 2 powers up. This is before the ignition is switched on with the switch panel. So I have a few things to diagnose next weekend. I think its due to the fuse block I used from Current Performance. I ended up using a couple of fuses that are hot at all times so I need to change that.
I also have to complete the wiring for the lights, turn signals ect. That's all the small holes made in the left side of the dash. I also have the burnout switch there as well that will engage the rpm limiter in the Gold box.
On the steering wheel from left to right is the Bump, Line lock and then the trans brake.
I want to fire the engine it to make sure its running right and builds oil pressure. Also set the FPR. Then I will start to layout the piping for the hot and cold side.
I posted this in the Texas forums, if someone here can help let me know. I would appreciate it a crap ton.
OK, I am about to lose my freaking mind here. I am trying to hook up my Laptop to my MS3 Gold box for the first time and cent even get that done. LOL The issue I thought was no COM ports in my computer. So I downloaded a com port driver but it still will not detect it even though I now see them in my device manager and also set it to Com1 which is required for the MS box. I even ran the port detector from the megasquirt page and it doesn't find it. I am not the most computer savvy person out there but I can usually get things done with hours of hating everything.
Basically my laptop only had USB ports listed. I bought the USB to Serial adapter and thought that might get the job done, nope, no help.
When I hoop up the cables, yea different types LOL, it pops up in the device manager but says it needs the driver. But again, I cant load the driver because it will not detect my Com1 port. Which again, even though it is showing up in my device manager, the port detection tool doesn't see it either.
So bottom line is, I need help. If there is anyone local to me in the San Marcos area that has experience with this stuff and you would like to help me out, that would be awesome. I will even pay if needed. Or do some trading for work or welding ect. I have a few skills that people can use.
Let me know if you think you can help me out. It is very much appreciated. All I am trying to do right now is fire up the engine to make sure it doesn't have any issues after the build and then I can start building my turbo piping.
Still haven't gotten the laptop to hook up, BUT I did make it run. Since the MS3 has a base tune for an LS1, I wanted to be sure that the unit was working. But due to not having a MAF on the engine and the harness isn't wired for it, its running SUPER fat. Doesn't idle at all, but hold the throttle open a bit and it idles, but again very rich. Let it run for about 15 seconds then shut it off. Its so rich the header was coated, black and wet. I also wanted to make sure it had oil pressure, which it was at 60psi. I don't have the front clip on the truck yet, so no water in the engine.
Now all I need is someone to help me with this connection issue. Then I can get into the box and make the needed changes. Then it will run right.
I finally got the system to hook up and was able to work on it a bit. Made a couple of changes to some input and outputs like trans brake, bump, burnout ect. Nothing to do with the engine run data itself. And no start. Will reload the base tune tomorrow and just make sure it starts again and go from their.
I finally got the system to hook up and was able to work on it a bit. Made a couple of changes to some input and outputs like trans brake, bump, burnout ect. Nothing to do with the engine run data itself. And no start. Will reload the base tune tomorrow and just make sure it starts again and go from their.
Make sure you calibrate TPS, and set the % for flood clear. Chances are good it's just stupid rich and flooding itself out
Make sure you calibrate TPS, and set the % for flood clear. Chances are good it's just stupid rich and flooding itself out
That makes sense now. The tps was up to 10% I think and the flood was 70 I think. The issue is I have no clue what to set in this thing and where to set them. I alsalso notices the crancrank wheel was 36 and 1 missing tooth. I think it should be 24 and no missing teeth. No cluse whst the missing tooth thing is.
I could really use someone to tell me or come by and preset it for me.
I have wiring issues too. Fuel pump 1 will not run on its own and its the right wire from the box calling for it. And a few other things that power up with just battery power like the wideband and eboost2 controller and the switch panel. And the trans brake engages with battery power. I doubt its an MS3 problem.
That makes sense now. The tps was up to 10% I think and the flood was 70 I think. The issue is I have no clue what to set in this thing and where to set them. I alsalso notices the crancrank wheel was 36 and 1 missing tooth. I think it should be 24 and no missing teeth. No cluse whst the missing tooth thing is.
I could really use someone to tell me or come by and preset it for me.
I have wiring issues too. Fuel pump 1 will not run on its own and its the right wire from the box calling for it. And a few other things that power up with just battery power like the wideband and eboost2 controller and the switch panel. And the trans brake engages with battery power. I doubt its an MS3 problem.
Send me a PM with your email or preferably FB messenger.
I can send you pics with instructions to guide you along, and from there share here for others if you wish.
Well learning as I go LOL. Found the crank signal was wrong and it actually has an LS setting which cured this problem. Also found that only 4 cylinders were firing and there is a setting for the coil on plugs so now it fires on all 8. I set the TPS. Set it to Speed density since I do not have a MAF, and the MAF is turned off. its hard to tell since its hard to keep running but I believe the AFR is showing about 10.0 ..
I just find it odd that when I load an LS base tune that it isn't right and all this stuff is wrong. So I emailed Mike at EFI source for his help. It runs again but its so rich that its just spitting fuel out of the pipes. It will not idle at all.
07-30-2016, 10:07 AM
