Junkyard turbo oil?
08-27-2016, 06:49 PM
#3
I use the oil from my daily driver (usually whatever synthetic is on sale) after like 5000 miles in the DD it looks dirty but is supposed to be good still so i put it in the turbo truck, where it starts to smell like fuel after about 25 miles lol
08-27-2016, 08:02 PM
#5
This is legendary without question.....
08-27-2016, 09:42 PM
#6
im glad i could provide some head shakes and lols
you guys use like redline or amsoil and change it every 3 months 3000 miles?
I used to do that too. It didn't make my life any better, my erections harder or my junkyard motors last any longer.
you guys use like redline or amsoil and change it every 3 months 3000 miles?
I used to do that too. It didn't make my life any better, my erections harder or my junkyard motors last any longer.
08-27-2016, 09:45 PM
#7
No, no amsoil or redline here. Just NEW clean rotella 15/40......not old oil from another motor. Oil is fairly inexpensive......
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08-27-2016, 10:16 PM
#8
So let me understand. You are wasting perfectly good daily driver oil that could be ran for several thousand more miles by recycling it into an engine that you are overfueling so badly that you have probably washed the rings? Parkinson's disease doesn't cause the required head shakes for this travesty.
08-27-2016, 11:09 PM
#9
So let me understand. You are wasting perfectly good daily driver oil that could be ran for several thousand more miles by recycling it into an engine that you are overfueling so badly that you have probably washed the rings? Parkinson's disease doesn't cause the required head shakes for this travesty.
haha damn good one with the parkinsons!
yeah the turbo truck runs a bit rich, and the 250,000 mile shortblock never really had that much in ring seal dept. anyways
speaking of diseases, you musta come down with rectal-glaucoma...coz you aint gonna see my *** giving a **** what you think
08-28-2016, 07:18 AM
#11
And in the "SMILES PER MILE" category I'm sure these junk yard turbo combos win hands down.....being pushed to truly the physical limits of their ability.....
Clean oil and good fuel is the very LEAST they should get.....
But I am enjoying the banter here gentlemen- please continue.
Clean oil and good fuel is the very LEAST they should get.....
But I am enjoying the banter here gentlemen- please continue.
08-28-2016, 01:56 PM
#13
alright I had some fun trolling, but for reals I do run the oil from my DD in my china-turbo'd SBE junkyard dog.
and you guys running the mineral-based rotella might consider a switch to synthetic and here's why:
i did fleet maintenance for a little bit and there I learned that mineral based oils have viscosity improvers added to them to make them multi-viscosity. there are other additive packages in both mineral based and synthetic oil but for now lets just look at VI's VI's break down (mostly hydrocarbons in blow-by) and eventually a 10-30 will be pretty much a straight 10 when hot. this happens at different rates for different vehicles but ones that see a lot of heat and blow-by (i.e. forced induction) it happens much faster.
this is not the case for synthetic oils. they are manufactured to each viscosity. there are a couple different grades of oil base stock, and true synthetics are grade 4 and 5...usually made by a a gas to liquid process. there is no VI added to true synthetics. the actual oil molecules of a true polyalphaolefin synthetic never really wear out. but it does pick up hydrocarbons from blow by, the detergents and other additives degrade and that is when it becomes "used up"
now at the fleet service yard some companies we contracted for spec'd different levels of service. some got mineral based lubes, some got semi-synthetics and some opted for full synthetics. the vehicles that performed most consistently in oil analysis over time were the ones with full synthetic. You could easily track maintenance cost data and the ones with full synth were a good 15-20% cheaper to operate over their service life.
I was sold then. I could go into oil filters too but I don't want to write a book. (use wix)
so yeah I take the oil from my low mile daily driver engine and run it in my turbo truck. And when it's done there I give it to my neighbor who centrifuges it and runs it in his shop furnace.
you guys dont even want to know what I do with used ATF!!!
and you guys running the mineral-based rotella might consider a switch to synthetic and here's why:
i did fleet maintenance for a little bit and there I learned that mineral based oils have viscosity improvers added to them to make them multi-viscosity. there are other additive packages in both mineral based and synthetic oil but for now lets just look at VI's VI's break down (mostly hydrocarbons in blow-by) and eventually a 10-30 will be pretty much a straight 10 when hot. this happens at different rates for different vehicles but ones that see a lot of heat and blow-by (i.e. forced induction) it happens much faster.
this is not the case for synthetic oils. they are manufactured to each viscosity. there are a couple different grades of oil base stock, and true synthetics are grade 4 and 5...usually made by a a gas to liquid process. there is no VI added to true synthetics. the actual oil molecules of a true polyalphaolefin synthetic never really wear out. but it does pick up hydrocarbons from blow by, the detergents and other additives degrade and that is when it becomes "used up"
now at the fleet service yard some companies we contracted for spec'd different levels of service. some got mineral based lubes, some got semi-synthetics and some opted for full synthetics. the vehicles that performed most consistently in oil analysis over time were the ones with full synthetic. You could easily track maintenance cost data and the ones with full synth were a good 15-20% cheaper to operate over their service life.
I was sold then. I could go into oil filters too but I don't want to write a book. (use wix)
so yeah I take the oil from my low mile daily driver engine and run it in my turbo truck. And when it's done there I give it to my neighbor who centrifuges it and runs it in his shop furnace.
you guys dont even want to know what I do with used ATF!!!
08-28-2016, 03:07 PM
#14
Yea, this thread was all fun and games until the last post. LOL Now you got all serious. Although I agree with you in the differences of oil uses in street driven vehicles. Mineral oil is better in a race engine that sees higher temps and higher loads. This is starting another topic in itself and has been discussed. But for me, dino oil has served me well, synthetics have blown up some of my engines. Synthetic tends to break down super fast once it hits a certain temp. Dino oil breaks down as well, but seems to be a slower process which will save an engine.
Sooo, for the OP's question. I run 15w40 in all my high mileage and all race engines.
Sooo, for the OP's question. I run 15w40 in all my high mileage and all race engines.
08-28-2016, 04:50 PM
#16
Yea, this thread was all fun and games until the last post. LOL Now you got all serious. Although I agree with you in the differences of oil uses in street driven vehicles. Mineral oil is better in a race engine that sees higher temps and higher loads. This is starting another topic in itself and has been discussed. But for me, dino oil has served me well, synthetics have blown up some of my engines. Synthetic tends to break down super fast once it hits a certain temp. Dino oil breaks down as well, but seems to be a slower process which will save an engine.
Sooo, for the OP's question. I run 15w40 in all my high mileage and all race engines.
Sooo, for the OP's question. I run 15w40 in all my high mileage and all race engines.
were you using a true group 4 synthetic? here in the good ol usa, group 3 bases are allowed to be labeled, marketed and sold as a full synthetic (castol syntec is the one that comes to mind)
08-28-2016, 08:05 PM
#17
there are many different opinions and many work well. I am a school bus tech and have been for 10 years and I have 28 bus' . I run bulk 15/40 oil in everything gas and diesel basically a delvac 1300 oil. and in a life span of 15 years and 200.000 miles I just don't have engine issues. that's 3000 miles for gas and 6000 miles for diesels. I have bought a few of the rusty bus' for the engines and they are always perfectly clean on the inside.
there are guys that run some full synthetic oil and longer change milage. with great results but for me the oil change is time for a full inspection . but like I have said I just don't have engine issues so I cant fix what is not broken.
there are guys that run some full synthetic oil and longer change milage. with great results but for me the oil change is time for a full inspection . but like I have said I just don't have engine issues so I cant fix what is not broken.
08-28-2016, 09:13 PM
#18
I have used Mobil, Amsoil and Royal Purple. Didn't like them due to damage. In my stock car engines I actually ran Valvoline 20w50 racing oil. I sold that car a few years back but forgot about them when I posted. But our road race engines get 15w40.
