trilkb

iTrader: (4)

I have a chance to buy a lsa supercharger and everything needed to run it from a friend. It would go on top of a 99 5.3 truck engine with some ls9 head gaskets and that's about it. Stock cam, possibly stock manifolds but would get long tubes over time.

Would you guys run this setup? Truck it's going into is a 2000 gmc sierra 2500 with a 4l80e, originally a 6.0. I'm looking to be able to tow and do work truck things, so do you think it would have the low end torque? Any idea of power numbers and at what psi?

My goal was a 5.3 with a quick spooling turbo but this lsa popped up. I want to be able to just set the boost and shut the hood and drive it like it's just another truck, and continue to use it like a truck and hopefully gets 15/19 mpg. Not looking for 1/4 mile times. I've searched but haven't found much on just a stock/stock cam 5.3 with a lsa. Is it worth doing?

93camaro_zzz

iTrader: (13)

Keep in mind that the LSA supercharger is the square ports, and your heads are cathedral ports. So it will not fit up initially. I think they make some kind of adapter, but it would probably be best to go with buying some LSA heads.

trilkb

iTrader: (4)

He's including the adaptors

stoverz28

iTrader: (8)

You should have loads of bottom end torque with a set up like that.

My uncle runs a little m112 on his 2000ish 1500 and damn that thing is fun to drive. It makes a **** ton of low end torque starting just above idle and tows extremely well. Only down side is fuel mileage is complete **** since it's so hard to stay out of boost.

Aaron at SDPC

If he is including the adapters and the price on the kit is right then its certainly not a bad idea. As for wanting more low end torque this blower setup will definitely help in that area.

trilkb

iTrader: (4)

I'm looking for low end torque so that's good to hear. It won't see over 3000rpm to often.

The 6.0 gets **** mpg. As long as I can get over 12 city I'll be happy. I want 15/19-20, with the way I drive I think it's possible. I felt even with the 6.0 the truck was gutless when it came to torque off idle.

wildcamaro

iTrader: (15)

it is a heavy duty truck lol...

speedfreak391

iTrader: (2)

I had a 112 kit on my old silverado ss. It did pickk up 1 mpg overall but towing was a bitch on mileage since it was in boost all the time. But my truck did have 4.10's in it and was not good on the hwy. I think with 3.73 or 3.43's it would have been way better all around. Do it you will never regret it.

trilkb

iTrader: (4)

True lol. It does ok if you get on it but it never felt really torquey to me off idle unless in 4low. A stock 5.3 would be a let down lol. The 6.0 has a knock, I got a 5.3 to replace it in hopes of better fuel economy and boost in mind. If I buy a new truck all I get is the same engine, I'd rather have a better engine then a new truck, I like the 99-07 look.

Do I need arp head bolts if I'm only going to run 8-10psi and hopefully always be at a lower rpm? Is it a "might as well" mod?

trilkb

iTrader: (4)

Well, ordered a few parts to get started, ls9 head gaskets, ls6 springs, trick flow chromemoly pushrods, gates water pump, new gm lifters set.

Which arp head bolt kit do I want? 134-3609? Will the cheaper 134-3610 not work? Block is a 99 5.3.

Fullpower

Texas Speed "Low Lift" 212/218 @.050"

Really nice camshaft, NA or with a bit of manifold pressure. Smooth idle, good low rpm pull, and still
going strong at 6200 rpm

You won't regret it.

trilkb

iTrader: (4)

I'm just going to run stock cam for now. I know there are better out there but I don't think there's much to gain where I want gains unless it's a vinci ultra torque or tow stick cam, but it's not worth the 400$ price to me right now. Probably looking at a 4500$ build as it is.

trilkb

iTrader: (4)

Well it begins...



And most of my parts have shown up!



Still need a few gaskets I'll be buying locally. And it seems summit racing has lost my pushrods.

trilkb

iTrader: (4)

2 hrs of work or so. First time I've ever taken heads off an engine, nowhere near as scary as I thought but then again it's putting it back together that's the hard part.

customblackbird

iTrader: (2)

arp bolts aren't needed on this setup even with the boost. I'm at 12psi on the stock 99 150k motor right now and no issues. Moly pushrods aren't really an upgrade. Just leave them stock. Unless you increase pushrod size and or spring rate considerably the moly are only slightly stronger than stock. Hope u got the bolts with the 4 middle sized bolts.

Stock cam does ok with boost. Motor is fun right now between 3000-5000 but is all done by 5200. I run a 2400-2600 stall so it's too much for the stock cam but looking custom cam which will add like 100hp to your motor.

trilkb

iTrader: (4)

I went to ls6 springs, not sure if they demand chromemoly push rods. My goal was to build something that will last 5-10 years so it's all really just extra insurance. I see a lot of people who add boost and it blows up 10,000 miles later, mostly due to high rpm I think tho which I won't see.

What do you mean about the middle sized bolts? The ones that go under the rocker shafts on the very front and back? I was actually going to look through to make sure today but haven't yet.

Any idea how much power you're at with 12psi?

customblackbird

iTrader: (2)

99 year block is LS1 early design. Two sets of arp bolts depending on the year. Think it's 99-01 uses the most expensive arp bolt kit. The early blocks are tapped for 2 medium length bolts on the front and rear of each head (4 total) not all the same length (longer) as the rest of the bolts. Trying to install the $130 kit or "all the same length" bolts will bottom out in the block and not work. Thus the other kit uses the correct "shorter" bolts on the ends of the heads allowing for the proper clamping. It has nothing to do with the heads.... It's the block that's different. Why ARP charges $60 more for 4 slightly shorter bolts baffles me but I guess they can and that's why they do. I'm got arp bolts for my 99 5.3 only bc I don't like the funky tq sequence of the torque to yeild bolts but I also paid a smidge over $100 for them off here brand new.

moly pushrods don't offer any real advantages over the stockers... They aren't that much stronger. Only thing that increases stiffness is an increase in DIA or wall thickness (DIA is better). Basically if u want to spend $100 on then it's up to you, but I'd throw that into a straub rocker bushing kit or better springs. The LS6 spring pressures aren't that great , better than stock 5.3 springs for sure but not on par with Howard or PAC 1218s. lS6 springs have a max lift of .550 and word is that you can't get close to that, more like .530 ish. For the stock 5.3 cam or the LQ9 cam it's fine and will work well but anything aftermarket your better just putting in a better spring (got my howards for $120 off summit) they are better than the more expensive PAC 1218s comparing specs. Given your stock cam and LS6 springs your not stressing the OE pushrods that'll much. Throw dual springs and a aggressive cam and your way past moly 5/16 and like 11/32 or 3/8 with head mods. LS6 springs are designed for non aggressive cam, very light valves and components... The 5.3 stuff is heavy. Don't sweat it tho as long as your on the OE cam the LS6 springs are fine. I currently run them with my 5.3 cam.

Boost kills motors bc of improper use and setup. Low mile motors need the rings gapped or they butt up and pop
a land. High mileage motors are better off due to wear causing larger than stock gaps thus more boost capable. The other issue is the stock rod bolts are weak, so don't spin higher than 6k a lot. Most of the time people are just greedy or don't have a proper tune.

My my current logs show about 60+% injector duty cycle on 72 lb injectors. When was closer to 55-60% and 10psi I was estimated around 500-525hp. Now that I got 2 psi more I'd say I'm close to 550hp crank hp . That's all stock besides LS6 springs. Never took the intake off or anything.

I I don't think your build is bad, your doing fine.

trilkb

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for the info. Yup I got the 165$ arp kit over the 110$ one so it should have the 4 shorter bolts. My pushrods still haven't shown up so I'll look into canceling the order and reuse the stock pushrods.

I have a brand new set of Howards 98215s sitting in the basement but I don't think they will work, originally bought for my lt1 c4.

I wanted to be at 425-450 to the wheels so hopefully that's possible.

kinglt-1

iTrader: (26)

Updates? Thinking about something similar for my 2000 Yukon. Probably be easier just to stay NA and put a 6.2 in it.

dawgs74

but we all know lsa heads need a 4"bore, so you will need rectangle to cathedral port adapters, I wanna say ict billet sells them for around $200