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I'm running straight pump unfortunately, all you guys with your readily available race gas make me really jealous lol.
E85 is almost non-existent here in the PNW so I gotta make due with pump swill plus I drive the car everywhere- legit AF street car status.
A friend of mine made 700whp on 60's with pump and a little meth so I think I may do the same.
I don't know what my duty cycle is since I have Pat G. remote tune it for me, it must not be too high or he would've suggest a change.
I only added another 255 to my stock bucket when I ran out of fuel and since then its been money, been toying with the idea of putting the 11 lbs. spring in too.
If Pat G is doing your tuning remotely then that means you have the means to monitor duty cycle. It's simple enough to check and to important to rely on him telling you. Fwiw he is my tuner as well.
If Pat G is doing your tuning remotely then that means you have the means to monitor duty cycle. It's simple enough to check and to important to rely on him telling you. Fwiw he is my tuner as well.
How do I check it since you've peaked my curiosity lol?
I'm imagining the hand held is involved?
I'm looking at a cheap pump option. I'm thinking of just doing a 340lph pump with my hotwire and see if that will get me 700rwhp. That and use my corvette regulator/filter. My 255lph pump with hotwire has me right around 570rwhp right now so I would think the 340lph should get me damn close to 700rwhp...
It doesn't get much cheaper than an extra 255 on a Hobbs switch.
I also looked at upgrading to 340 but all of my friends who've been in the game far longer than me strenuously advised against it.
The 340 won't flow enough volume to continuously feed 700rwhp since that is also my goal and they speak from experience.
It would be really bad to melt down your forged engine because you cheaped out on the fuel pump, just saying. ; )
It doesn't get much cheaper than an extra 255 on a Hobbs switch.
I also looked at upgrading to 340 but all of my friends who've been in the game far longer than me strenuously advised against it.
The 340 won't flow enough volume to continuously feed 700rwhp since that is also my goal and they speak from experience.
It would be really bad to melt down your forged engine because you cheaped out on the fuel pump, just saying. ; )
You know I started thinking about what you and Scottybg are saying here and it kinda just "clicked" how much better and easier just adding a second 255 and a hobbs switch would be.
I can leave all my wiring and hotwire alone for my 255 pump I already have and just run new maybe 10-12g wire to my new 255lph pump off a hobbs switch. This way the extra pump only comes on when I'm in boost.
+ I don't have to worry about my stock regulator handling a huge pump and giving me idling issues because the second pump will only be on during WOT?
Now all I really need to do is get a second walbro 255, get a hobbs switch, and get a fitting to connect the two pump together in the stock bucket.
Let me know if you guys think I'm on the right path?
How do I check it since you've peaked my curiosity lol?
I'm imagining the hand held is involved?
Yea, it involves the handheld. BUt all you have to do is take a data log like you would for Pat G then go to the data tab and hit play. The injector duty cycle pid should already be selected (if not then you can select it in the PIDs tab before logging). Just have to hit play and look at the maximum your duty cycle reaches.
You know I started thinking about what you and Scottybg are saying here and it kinda just "clicked" how much better and easier just adding a second 255 and a hobbs switch would be.
I can leave all my wiring and hotwire alone for my 255 pump I already have and just run new maybe 10-12g wire to my new 255lph pump off a hobbs switch. This way the extra pump only comes on when I'm in boost.
+ I don't have to worry about my stock regulator handling a huge pump and giving me idling issues because the second pump will only be on during WOT?
Now all I really need to do is get a second walbro 255, get a hobbs switch, and get a fitting to connect the two pump together in the stock bucket.
Let me know if you guys think I'm on the right path?
I got the same setup, 255 on a hot wire kit, then plumbed in an additional 255 with some brass fittings, ran the wires out the top of the hat, got a 40 amp relay, fuse block and 3 psi. Hobbs switch.
Tapped into the boost reference line and ran the power for the additional pump directly to the back of the alternator.
I've read about a lot of guys making over 700whp with factory lines and dual 255's in the stock bucket.
Seems to work really well and now once I get the car back on the ground I'm gonna check my IDC.
Last edited by The BallSS; 02-16-2017 at 06:20 PM.
Yea, it involves the handheld. BUt all you have to do is take a data log like you would for Pat G then go to the data tab and hit play. The injector duty cycle pid should already be selected (if not then you can select it in the PIDs tab before logging). Just have to hit play and look at the maximum your duty cycle reaches.
I couldn't figure it out so I asked Pat lol.
He said my IDC is at 80% which is kinda cool because according to Pat 700whp would fully max out 60's so then I gotta be at or a little north of 600whp to be at 80% duty cycle. >= D
I got the same setup, 255 on a hot wire kit, then plumbed in an additional 255 with some brass fittings, ran the wires out the top of the hat, got a 40 amp relay, fuse block and 3 psi. Hobbs switch.
Tapped into the boost reference line and ran the power for the additional pump directly to the back of the alternator.
I've read about a lot of guys making over 700whp with factory lines and dual 255's in the stock bucket.
Seems to work really well and now once I get the car back on the ground I'm gonna check my IDC.
Do you have this setup on the stock in tank regulator?
Do you have this setup on the stock in tank regulator?
I do, literally just added the fuel pump, wiring and controls and that's it.
I know it works because with the single 255 I would go dead lean 13.0ish at WOT at 4,500 rpm and after the pump now full pulls are no issue and Pat is happy with the fueling.
Gotta start looking for some 80's lol.
Here's a pic.
Well since my 255 pump is 10 years old with 30k miles I figure I may as well just do 2 new pumps so I got the twin 255's from racetronix with the supplied fitting. Also ordered some other stuff with it. $300 total. I was originally going to do the lonnies kit, but this way will be about $350 cheaper and I get to do it lol.
Anything I'm missing? Think I just need A piece of 3/8 fuel hose and I'm good to go..
Zach I don't know if you seen my fuel system build, but I used the Racetronix universal dual pump wiring harness, and the intermediate harness. It is a really nice plug and play setup. It took a while until I got mine the way I wanted it, you may be interested in using the same harness. It will cost a little more than just wiring it all up yourself, but it is a nice setup. you may not want to read it all, but in the last couple posts you can see the universal harness. I wouldn't use a piece of the rubber fuel injection hose, I'd get the correct plastic tube. You will also see in my thread, how my 3/8 hose kinked after the fuel softened it for a while. There is a reason the OEM's use that plastic stuff in the tank, it really stands up a lot better.
Zach I don't know if you seen my fuel system build, but I used the Racetronix universal dual pump wiring harness, and the intermediate harness. It is a really nice plug and play setup. It took a while until I got mine the way I wanted it, you may be interested in using the same harness. It will cost a little more than just wiring it all up yourself, but it is a nice setup. you may not want to read it all, but in the last couple posts you can see the universal harness. I wouldn't use a piece of the rubber fuel injection hose, I'd get the correct plastic tube. You will also see in my thread, how my 3/8 hose kinked after the fuel softened it for a while. There is a reason the OEM's use that plastic stuff in the tank, it really stands up a lot better.
I read through your fuel setup. A lot of good info. I wish everyone did detailed write-ups like that. I try to contribute when I can as well. I will def use that thread if I ever plan to make over 800rwhp and upgrade the lines and FPR.
I don't plan to get a new harness cuz this setup will be super simple.
Wiring will be exactly the same for the one pump off the regular hotwire and then I bought the fuel pump relay kit so there is really no wiring involved. Just have to run a wire from my boost switch to the relay to tell my second pump to come on.
As for the fuel hose. I would use the plastic, but I HATE it lol. I can never remove it without cutting it with a blade and then I'm left waiting for that damn plastic piece and the stupid crimps. I used 3/8 fuel hose on this car for a good 4 years with no issues and have it like that on my 408 car. If I have to change it out once every few years thats no big deal. The trap door makes pulling the pump a breeze.
I'll have to check my hose occasionally as well, I used submersible high pressure fuel hose so hopefully it will hold up well.
I don't know if I could get that sharp 90 degree bend with the plastic stuff.
Also use Teflon paste on the threads and not tape, as you can see mine have tape but a bunch of guys flamed me hard so I changed it to paste lol.
Racetronix also makes a sweet little bulkhead you can use to bring the wires through the top of the hat instead of drilling a hole and sealing it like I did, might be worth looking at.
Take you time cutting the bucket too.
02-11-2017, 08:08 PM
