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As long as you route the oil drain down hill and above the oil level of the tank you should be ok with out the pump. I'd hate to rely on a pump, you'd never know it went out till to late
You would know almost instantly unless you cannot see the smoke cloud behind you.
No big deal. Fit a new pump, maybe a quick clean up and back to normal again.
But from that picture it looks like a gravity drain would be quite easy and work under almost all driving conditions ( with perhaps only concern about long steep downhill sections. )
Also what RICE ETR said, the PCV is critical. You will need a working PCV system, and not be boosting your crank case like the factory PCV system would. That will blow the oil back up the return line and back into the turbo. That is a whole 'nother thread, this response is long enough without getting into how to design a proper PCV system for a turbo motor, see Mighty Mouse if you need more info. It should look something like this.
Quoted for truth and great looking engine bay
I have built systems with 'extra' crankcase vacuum to help these low life turbo's drain (without extra pumps).
I've always thought that if the bottom of the turbo centersection was higher than the oil level in the pan, which it sounds like it is, then it will drain correctly provided you have a properly setup PCV/catch can.
I believe my SS turbo kit had it at about that level, drained just fine.
That's where I'm at too, my drain is almost flat but I really think my Mighty Mouse catch can vents the engine well so turbo oil drainage isn't an issue.
I decided to give the gravity drain a shot. I really think it will work. I'm running big 3/4" ID braided hose. This is equal to about an 12AN fitting from what I've researched. As Scotty suggested, I filled the oil pan up with 5 quarts of water. I marked where the water line was on the outside of the pan. The bottom of my welded in bung is about 3/8" above the water line. I could have lowered the bung a little probably, but I'm taking it safe because there are hills around where I live.
I'm also definitely looking into the Mighty Mouse catch can system! The last thing I want to do is blow my dipstick out or rear main seal by pressurising the crankcase.
Based upon your picture of the turbo, the drain is above the centerline of the crank, to where your return is and the size of it, I'm confident you will not need a scavenge pump. That will work for sure. It looks really well done.
BTW how do you like your S60? I've had one on order since late January, still waiting for it to show up, they are saying probably next week some time. It seems most people I talk to like it?
Based upon your picture of the turbo, the drain is above the centerline of the crank, to where your return is and the size of it, I'm confident you will not need a scavenge pump. That will work for sure. It looks really well done.
BTW how do you like your S60? I've had one on order since late January, still waiting for it to show up, they are saying probably next week some time. It seems most people I talk to like it?
I have no complaints at all with the S60. It's completely quiet. I mean completely. My stock rear with GM 4:10 gears was much noisier. The rear is massive compared to the stock 10 bolt too. I don't think it would be possible to break the thing! My friend with an 02 SS bought one at the same time as me and he loves his too. Fitment and install wasn't an issue either. I just did it on jack stands in my garage.
I'm in the same boat with twins on a new edge mustang what's the best route for scavenge pump(s) to do the job affordably
i run a sure flo pump and it's been on the car for 5000 miles and has worked flawlessly . I'm dealing with smoking issues but it's because of my own stupidity and not the pump. They're under 100 and do the job just fine . I also wanna note that I run 15w40 rotella in my turbo ls1
02-05-2017, 05:13 AM
