nossty1

iTrader: (3)

I have a pinned balancer and crank and am wondering what the best way to install a new balancer that is not pinned. My old balancer failed so its time for a replacement. The obvious issue is that the new balancer is not pinned. I am concerned with proper alignment and re-drilling the new balancer for the pin. I know there is a lot of experience with pins in here so any help is appreciated. Thanks guys.

stevieturbo

If you are incapable of aligning the tool and drilling a new hole in the same place...then just drill a totally new hole.

either option should not be difficult.

Or at a push, go a slight step larger in drill size and have a new pin made up to suit. Again, not difficult

forcd ind

iTrader: (7)

Which pinning tool did you use, the one that goes in the front, like Prochargers kit?

nossty1

iTrader: (3)

Well Stevie thats pretty much whar I assumed would have to be done. Just hoping for a trick.

It is the procharger pin kit.

Thanks.

forcd ind

iTrader: (7)

I had thought of having my buddy mach. make me a rod the dia of the pin,
then mill it aprx 1/2 the hole dia on part of it, so you could stick it thru the holding device, lock it in place, then hopefully drill it pretty dam close.
You could prob just take a bolt and cut it down and get close

rg913

I made a slug to fit inside the damper, used the pinning fixture and drilled the entire depth. More like a key at that point. I can pull the damper as many times as needed without drilling for a new location.

stevieturbo

The damper sticks out further than the crank nose. So there should be no issue aligning the tool with the hole. Just do it.

Drill the hole, fit pin, job done.

If you feel the bit might wander a little, just step up in drill size a little.

I've done a few and went from initial that was 6.25, through 6.3, 6.4 and 6.5mm. At a push I even just cut the drill bit and used it for a pin once.

nossty1

iTrader: (3)

Ok. Job was accomplished with relative ease. Aligning the tool was not difficult but with a condenser, intercooler, and just a lowered sway bar I had to get a little creative to see it. (Corvette) The tool I was using was aluminum, steel would have been better. The first go round with a brand new bit caused deflection and snapped the bit with very little pressure. I blame this on a cheap bit and the aluminum tool. The tool showed wear but I felt with a quality bit that was worn a little it would not bite so hard. Worked fine after that.

roastin240

iTrader: (13)

I am in the exact same position as you were. I have a previously drilled crank, and am installing a new SFI approved balancer instead of the original FBody damper.

Problem I see is when you start drilling a "half" circle to create the other half circle into the damper, the drill bit will want to "walk over" into the half circle hole that was previously created in the crank. Did you not experience this? The only way I see it being possible is to just leave the old half circle in the crank and drill a new pair at another location...

stevieturbo

With a good quality sharp bit, not so much of an issue.

If you're really concerned, just go a slight bit bigger so there is actual load against the other side of the bit.

I've went from 6.2 to 6.3 to 6.4 to 6.5mm steps when re-using the same pulley on different cranks at different times over the last 10 years or so.

If it's a forged crank, a cobalt drill bit will go through it easily

nossty1

iTrader: (3)

This did happen to me. Even kind of opened up the tool. In the end it worked out ok but i still feel it is less than ideal. Lol