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SethU, unfortunately nothing I have done has improved the cooling.
I'm going to refrain from making any guesses as to what the issue is and try to stick to raw, cold, hard, #s.
As far as the sensor goes, the calibration was correct, and I even went as far as to buy ANOTHER, different sensor (I swapped out for the Holley MAT sensor), made the adjustments in the tune file and ultimately get the exact same results with both sensors.
SethU, unfortunately nothing I have done has improved the cooling.
I'm going to refrain from making any guesses as to what the issue is and try to stick to raw, cold, hard, #s.
As far as the sensor goes, the calibration was correct, and I even went as far as to buy ANOTHER, different sensor (I swapped out for the Holley MAT sensor), made the adjustments in the tune file and ultimately get the exact same results with both sensors.
Im curious, have you tried reaching out to 417 with this data and if so what did they have to say?
As far as the sensor goes, the calibration was correct, and I even went as far as to buy ANOTHER, different sensor (I swapped out for the Holley MAT sensor), made the adjustments in the tune file and ultimately get the exact same results with both sensors.
Hmmm. I'm stumped.
If you're open to alternative intercooling options, it does look like you may be able to plumb in two of this style intercooler, one to the left, one to the right, and keep your turbo location.
Im curious, have you tried reaching out to 417 with this data and if so what did they have to say?
They insist that I have the only intercooler out of 450+ sold that has ever had an issue. I've talked to other guys who would say different. Ultimately that's where I'm left after throwing everything and the phone book at trying to make this thing work.
If you're open to alternative intercooling options, it does look like you may be able to plumb in two of this style intercooler, one to the left, one to the right, and keep your turbo location.
It does look like something could be squeezed in on the left side of the vehicle ok. If not a shelf item, a custom made unit
It could maybe even combine with the 417 unit already there ?
I had issues with high IAT's on my truck as well. I am not running the 417 intercooler, but I would see a 40-50* rise in intake temps. This was running a frozen boost A/W intercooler and custom set up with no ice. Losing 4* of timing due to high IAT's in the 1/8.
My fix was was adding water meth injection. No difference but adding water meth and adjusting the fueling. I added the nozzle about 12" in front of my IAT sensor. Temps started to climb then started to drop back down as the meth came on. Like you I wasnt looking to change my whole set up because I built my cold side based on this intercooler. Gained 7* of timing from low IAT's and lower cylinder airmass. I will probably back the timing back down a bit. Plugs looked fine after this pass though.
It does look like something could be squeezed in on the left side of the vehicle ok. If not a shelf item, a custom made unit
It could maybe even combine with the 417 unit already there ?
on my vehicle, I had a discussion with a friend of mine if we could run a second cooler and route the water system through the 417 out to the 2nd cooler and out to the back.
the reason for this is to save money since I actually have a cooler pictured above sitting in my garage, all we would need is the refab the cold side.
But I guess the question is would it be easier to install a meth kit and would that solve the issue vs refabing
I would think 417 would do an air and water flow test on your unit compared to a replacement that resembles the +450 units out there and see if any different.
Last edited by tblentrprz; 03-11-2017 at 12:34 PM.
I would think 417 would do an air and water flow test on your unit compared to a replacement that resembles the +450 units out there and see if any different.
BTW - doesn't Crusty rep 417 and has one on son's Malibu? Maybe he'll chime in. or... OP post in YB and see if there is a verdict out there.
The only bright side I have seen from searching is Crusty chiming in on forums claiming his high hp low 8? sec car running fine on it. but not sure how long ago or what size cooler he has or how much power he makes.
wondering : The claim good for 1500, is this whp flywheel hp? among searching i found a post somewhere where i guy had one fs on a foxbody. he claimed he had reached its limit and that was 900 whp??
That thing just looks to small to be doing anything worthwhile. It also looks like it could also pose a restriction. I may of missed it, but is there any data regarding how much pressure drop there is with this i/c? Wondering if the turbo is working that much harder to push through it.
Yea Zachs combo is very cool. I wanted to retain my crash bar and several other things, so I went this route. Completely off topic, but have you spoken to him in a while? He fell off the map...
That's really weird because I have a buddy that has one of the older units that supports 1500 hp and his temps were excellent on the dyno even after back to back pulls. GM threaded intake air temperature sensor is in the hole on the rear of the Holley Intake. Using a rule 3700 pump. IATs were 120ish at the top of the pull with no Ice, just room temp water inside of an 8gallon tank.
Is the system completely filled with straight water? This may be off subject a little but have you tried filling the system with windshield washer fluid? It works great in in floor heat and other heat transfer systems to maintain temperatures quickly. I have a A to A intercooler on my TT408 and works great but I also live in MN where temps are not usually an issue this time of year.
Ron, I wonder about dyno pulls. They are very short, and with very little load on the motor. I would expect much less heat to be generated in those conditions than on the actual road or drag strip...?
Move your sensor further away from the runners. It will only take a little cam overlap and you'll be getting reversion up there.
And the more you retard the timing the worse it will get.
03-11-2017, 11:01 AM
