Build me an 1100fwhp SINGLE turbo setup using a 5.3, 5.7, or 6.0.
03-16-2017, 05:57 PM
#21
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Thread Starter
As far as small cubes vs. big cubes it comes down to application. If this was a race car that only cared about performance at the track I'd go small cubes all day long.
However, if this is more of a street car (which I assume it is based on the fact it has AC and will be driven 4 times or more a week on the street) I would go with more cubic inches to allow the power delivery to be more responsive.
What I would do is the 6.0, 243/799 heads, LS6 intake, S476 billet with a T4 1.25 AR housing and a 96mm turbine. If you're going to be running pump gas I'd keep compression no higher than 10:1 and that would be in conjunction with using a dual nozzle meth kit. If no meth kit I'd keep it at 9.5:1. Use a set of Callies H beam compstar rods and a wiseco shelf piston. ARP main studs and head studs along with a set of LS9 gaskets.
Keep in mind guys he says he wants to drive this 4+ times a week on the street AND it's a 6 speed. It's going to lose drive pressure on every shift and it doesn't have the ability to keep the engine loaded through the shift like an auto. You can build it like a race car if you want, but it may be a bit laggy and not as responsive.
I would be happy to help you work out the details on your build as well as supplying any parts you might need. The engine and turbo combo I mentioned will make 900rwhp while being more responsive and enjoyable to drive with a 6 speed car.
Hope this helps!
However, if this is more of a street car (which I assume it is based on the fact it has AC and will be driven 4 times or more a week on the street) I would go with more cubic inches to allow the power delivery to be more responsive.
What I would do is the 6.0, 243/799 heads, LS6 intake, S476 billet with a T4 1.25 AR housing and a 96mm turbine. If you're going to be running pump gas I'd keep compression no higher than 10:1 and that would be in conjunction with using a dual nozzle meth kit. If no meth kit I'd keep it at 9.5:1. Use a set of Callies H beam compstar rods and a wiseco shelf piston. ARP main studs and head studs along with a set of LS9 gaskets.
Keep in mind guys he says he wants to drive this 4+ times a week on the street AND it's a 6 speed. It's going to lose drive pressure on every shift and it doesn't have the ability to keep the engine loaded through the shift like an auto. You can build it like a race car if you want, but it may be a bit laggy and not as responsive.
I would be happy to help you work out the details on your build as well as supplying any parts you might need. The engine and turbo combo I mentioned will make 900rwhp while being more responsive and enjoyable to drive with a 6 speed car.
Hope this helps!
I plan on running e85, no meth kit. Would you still suggest 9.5:1 compression? or going to 10.1 since it's e85?
You are also correct on it being a street car. because of this i'm looking for the most responsive and least laggy setup possible (that matches my requirements..) I planned on using a quick spool valve to help with this. Do you think it would be worth it in my situation?
And what cam would you suggest for this setup?
I currently have absolutely nothing except the block so am going to be needing to buy a lot of parts (new or used) and can go any direction at this point.
03-16-2017, 10:25 PM
#22
If you're going to run E85 I'd build it with at least 10.5:1 CR. I have some customers running over 11:1 on E85. What I would recommend would be a Wiseco shelf piston 4.030" bore with a -3.2cc relief volume. With a 64cc 799/243 head and a LS9 gasket you'll have right at 10.8:1 compression. I'd also use the upgraded 9310 .200" wall S718 wrist pins with the aforementioned Callies Compstar H-beams.
I don't personally feel the quick spool valve is necessary, but it probably wouldn't hurt anything. I don't have much experience with the quick spool valve to give you much information there.
As for the camshaft, if you do go with the turbo and engine combo I suggested I would do something in the range of a 228/228 114+4. This would give you quick spool, a choppy enough idle to know it has a cam and a shift point around 6700-6800RPM.
I can supply all the parts I've mentioned so far along with others that you may need and I would be happy to continue to help steer you in the best direction for your application.
I don't personally feel the quick spool valve is necessary, but it probably wouldn't hurt anything. I don't have much experience with the quick spool valve to give you much information there.
As for the camshaft, if you do go with the turbo and engine combo I suggested I would do something in the range of a 228/228 114+4. This would give you quick spool, a choppy enough idle to know it has a cam and a shift point around 6700-6800RPM.
I can supply all the parts I've mentioned so far along with others that you may need and I would be happy to continue to help steer you in the best direction for your application.
Last edited by Martin Smallwood; 03-16-2017 at 10:31 PM.
03-21-2017, 01:28 PM
#23
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As far as small cubes vs. big cubes it comes down to application. If this was a race car that only cared about performance at the track I'd go small cubes all day long.
However, if this is more of a street car (which I assume it is based on the fact it has AC and will be driven 4 times or more a week on the street) I would go with more cubic inches to allow the power delivery
to be more responsive.
What I would do is the 6.0, 243/799 heads, LS6 intake, S476 billet with a T4 1.25 AR housing and a 96mm turbine. If you're going to be running pump gas I'd keep compression no higher than 10:1 and that would be in conjunction with using a dual nozzle meth kit. If no meth kit I'd keep it at 9.5:1. Use a set of Callies H beam compstar rods and a wiseco shelf piston. ARP main studs and head studs along with a set of LS9 gaskets.
Keep in mind guys he says he wants to drive this 4+ times a week on the street AND it's a 6 speed. It's going to lose drive pressure on every shift and it doesn't have the ability to keep the engine loaded through the shift like an auto. You can build it like a race car if you want, but it may be a bit laggy and not as responsive.
I would be happy to help you work out the details on your build as well as supplying any parts you might need. The engine and turbo combo I mentioned will make 900rwhp while being more responsive and enjoyable to drive with a 6 speed car.
Hope this helps!
However, if this is more of a street car (which I assume it is based on the fact it has AC and will be driven 4 times or more a week on the street) I would go with more cubic inches to allow the power delivery
to be more responsive.
What I would do is the 6.0, 243/799 heads, LS6 intake, S476 billet with a T4 1.25 AR housing and a 96mm turbine. If you're going to be running pump gas I'd keep compression no higher than 10:1 and that would be in conjunction with using a dual nozzle meth kit. If no meth kit I'd keep it at 9.5:1. Use a set of Callies H beam compstar rods and a wiseco shelf piston. ARP main studs and head studs along with a set of LS9 gaskets.
Keep in mind guys he says he wants to drive this 4+ times a week on the street AND it's a 6 speed. It's going to lose drive pressure on every shift and it doesn't have the ability to keep the engine loaded through the shift like an auto. You can build it like a race car if you want, but it may be a bit laggy and not as responsive.
I would be happy to help you work out the details on your build as well as supplying any parts you might need. The engine and turbo combo I mentioned will make 900rwhp while being more responsive and enjoyable to drive with a 6 speed car.
Hope this helps!
Guys, not to hijack this thread but I've got the same questions and it doesn't make sense to start a new thread.
I'm in need of a forged motor to run around town in the 700rw range but want to turn it up to 850+ at some point. I want to be able to max out my turbo and kit. Huron speed t4 kit with a turbonetics 7875. What motor will work best? 5.3 or 6.0? Aluminum or iron? I'd like it to spool as quickly as possible and avoid laggy portions of acceleration on the street. This is a huge expense so I wanna do it once and that's it.
03-21-2017, 02:13 PM
#24
9 Second Club
And therein lies your answer.
Under absolutely every circumstance the larger motor will outspool the smaller engine with the same bolt on kit/parts and offer less lag.
And for that power range, aluminium is perfectly fine.
Under absolutely every circumstance the larger motor will outspool the smaller engine with the same bolt on kit/parts and offer less lag.
And for that power range, aluminium is perfectly fine.
03-23-2017, 03:31 AM
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ok so let's say I go with a 6.0, stock bore and stroke, iron block, any issues with hitting or surpassing 1000 to the tire? Most likely it would be with another turbo at that point, but idk how crazy I may want to get down the road so I'd want to make sure that forged block would handle the power. I would try to max out my 78/75 in the mean time. That would maybe get me to 800rw on the 6.0?
03-23-2017, 06:38 AM
#26
TECH Veteran
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/engines-drivetrain/1309-370-iron-block-salt-shaker/ 
I'm a all motor guy but thank me later
I'm a all motor guy but thank me later
03-23-2017, 07:31 AM
#28
TECH Veteran
gmhtp 370ci salt shaker.
03-23-2017, 11:42 AM
#30
TECH Veteran
That's it Stevie... link worked perfectly. 
03-23-2017, 04:54 PM
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Fellas... thank you. 6.0 it is. The car is a street car also, not just track duty so I want the better out of boost responsiveness, torque and faster spool when I lean into it. I've got methanol injection and will be running 93 octane so I'm thinking of going 9.5-10:1 compression. 243 heads milled to achieve this ratio or use the Prc 5.3L stage 2.5 heads I already have? I don't want it to run out of steam too low but don't wanna have to spin it to 6800 either.
03-23-2017, 05:36 PM
#32
9 Second Club
IMO with pump, always err on the safe side with CR, unless when racing or pushing hard you intend to use race of good fuel.
9-9.5:1 would make more sense and give everything an easier time.
9-9.5:1 would make more sense and give everything an easier time.
03-25-2017, 10:16 AM
#33
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how how far do you think the 78/75 would take me, on the 6.0, before too much back pressure becomes an issue?i have a 3" cutout at the end of the downpipe if that helps any. Which is located on the dr side front floor board.
03-25-2017, 02:41 PM
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im with ya there Stevie. My 7875 now is a Turbonetics. I didn't plan on going nuts with the power originally but if I'm gonna go with a forged motor that'll handle 1100hp, I might as well turn it up. I know the 5.3 will fit my setup better but I'm just nervous about it being a dog out of boost under normal driving conditions. I still drive the car in the nice weather to work, put my kids and wife in the car and we all cruise so it's not driven ***** out all the time.
03-28-2017, 11:19 AM
#36
For your power goals and the large 6.0 displacement, I would sell the 7875 and step up to a T6 borg warner 80mm if your looking for 1100 hp. I also agree with lower CR with pump gas. I wouldnt go over 9.5:1. I decided on 9.5:1 with my forged 5.3 even with e85.
With a lower CR you can typically run more ignition timing. When you advance ignition timing, EGT's go DOWN. The bandaid for too high of CR is low timing IMO. Not saying hundreds of people dont do it successfully...but I prefer lower CR, more timing and maybe a hair more boost.
With a lower CR you can typically run more ignition timing. When you advance ignition timing, EGT's go DOWN. The bandaid for too high of CR is low timing IMO. Not saying hundreds of people dont do it successfully...but I prefer lower CR, more timing and maybe a hair more boost.
03-28-2017, 11:55 PM
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For your power goals and the large 6.0 displacement, I would sell the 7875 and step up to a T6 borg warner 80mm if your looking for 1100 hp. I also agree with lower CR with pump gas. I wouldnt go over 9.5:1. I decided on 9.5:1 with my forged 5.3 even with e85.
With a lower CR you can typically run more ignition timing. When you advance ignition timing, EGT's go DOWN. The bandaid for too high of CR is low timing IMO. Not saying hundreds of people dont do it successfully...but I prefer lower CR, more timing and maybe a hair more boost.
With a lower CR you can typically run more ignition timing. When you advance ignition timing, EGT's go DOWN. The bandaid for too high of CR is low timing IMO. Not saying hundreds of people dont do it successfully...but I prefer lower CR, more timing and maybe a hair more boost.
03-29-2017, 03:36 PM
#38
Compression is always determined by what fuel you are willing to run. I always recommend running the most compression that your intended fuel can handle. Of course chamber design, camshaft design and piston design will also determine how far you can push a certain fuel, but I highly recommend to all my customers to run as much compression as you can.
I have several customers with turbo set-ups running race gas that are well above 11:1 and some even over 12:1, and I can tell you that the higher CR engines make more power.
I have several customers with turbo set-ups running race gas that are well above 11:1 and some even over 12:1, and I can tell you that the higher CR engines make more power.
