frcefed98

iTrader: (16)

This is the main reason I decided to go with HP Tuners trade in program....my LS1edit and EFIlive are now property of Keith and company This upgrade(3bar map sensor) was discussed on their forum so it made the decision to go with HPtuners a no brainer. So far their whole package has been really great. Just can't wait to ditch this MAF. Gotta love 800hp/770lbft in a street car...
Keep this TTT...feed us some more info Keith

eviltwins

The T76 flows about 5lbs/minute (50 HP) more air than the T72 wheel. I'm about 99% positive the regular PT74 does not use a GT-series compressor wheel, you have to special order it as a GT42-74 or a GT42-76 with a TO4 flange.

Wicked_Hugger99

iTrader: (1)

You guys are gonna have to teach me how to drive it

qqwqeqwrqwqtq

smokinhawk- Tuning is not hard, just time consuming. The VE table is extended, and there is alot of resolution. Idle and part throttle are both great.

XJGPN- Yes, speed density.

PSJ- No, fuel consumption will decline after peak torque, as will the values in the VE table to maintain a steady A/F.

Realquick- Fuel is 110 octane. Griffin front mount (IAT's going from 70 degrees to 74 degrees at the end of a pull). Cam is 225/225 113lsa 111icl, .581 lift I believe.

TACruiser- Realquick answered your question.

ONYOURLS1- Not on the first date.

Mightymouse- You would install the 3 bar sensor (which we also have adaptor wiring harnesses for), set MAF fail frequency to 10, MAF performance to no ses light, than tune with the VE table. You could start out with the stock VE table up to 100kpa, than scale it up from there.

GrantB- It is an Innovative GT76, R-trim, 1.15 a/r

Wicked_Hugger99- I can do that

Wicked_Hugger99

iTrader: (1)

hehe swell! When do the tracks open back up in chi-town ?

Grant B

Your right, my bad. The 72 only flows more at higher boost levels, which is what I'm used to looking at. Looks to me like the 76 flows about 3lbs/min more at 16 psi.

T72: http://www.turboneticsinc.com/compressors/T72.gif
T76: http://www.turboneticsinc.com/compressors/T76.gif

I know people who have PT74s and measured the wheel with a micrometer. They say it comes out to the exact dimensions as a GT42 53-trim down to a tenth of a milimeter. At any rate, I was again thinking of higher boost levels, doesn't look like it does any better than the 76 at 16 psi though. So I guess it doesn't matter.

PTE does some weird stuff though, they supposedly had a TO4S 63-trim 67mm wheel copied for a Supra owner (its flows a bit better than a T66, and surges less) because they couldn't source the original wheel.

Bryan Wilkinson

iTrader: (1)

The very basic list is as follows
Remove the MAF
Set the Injector flow rate to get the car started
The PCM is updated to do 2 BAR. 3 BAR
Copy your current VE table to the new table
Then take the 105KPA line and copy to the rest of the 105 to 200 or 300 which ever it is
Get on a mustang dyno and tune for each cell

Bryan Wilkinson

iTrader: (1)

Not trying to start anything, but what did the car do on 93 OCT. That is the definition of a true street car. If you have to put $5.00 a gallon of gas in it to make that power, it becomes really expensive to drive dont you think.

Evil F1 SS

How is my tune coming along?

qqwqeqwrqwqtq

Everyone has there own definition of a true street car.

I think once you start making more than 600rwhp you should start thinking about better fuel. It is cheap insurance.

I've accidentally ran 25lbs of boost on the street on 93 octane. It didn't break, but I consider myself lucky. I'm sure I could make some pulls on the dyno with pump fuel and high boost as well. But why risk damage to a 15k dollar engine (more in your case), for a few more dollars a gallon?

You always bring this up about pump gas, but never answer when I ask what your car has ran at the track on 93 octane?

I'm guessing it's because you either havn't ran it, or it didn't put down a good number. Either way, I think once you get it to the track and start leaning on it with 800+rwhp and 93 octane, you'll break something sooner than later.

qqwqeqwrqwqtq

I won't be able to answer that until tomorrow.

TwnTrboCE

iTrader: (43)

Not trying to start anything either. But I bet if you took the amount of money you have in your car and subtracted the amount they have in this one. The difference would buy a lot of $5.00 a gallon race fuel. Especially when you factor in the $2.00 a gallon 93. Don't you think?

A DEE O

iTrader: (2)

Great work guys, very impressive. Angelo

frcefed98

iTrader: (16)

Don't know, what did the car do on 93 oct? But as to your question. That is YOUR definition of a street car. Streetable- that is completely up to the person who drives it. One mans view of streetable is another mans view of race .....see what i'm getting at. If I had that kind of power and it required race gas than so be it, thats the cost of going fast right....We've already spent xxx amount of dollars on our rides...some more than others....so whats a few gallons of race gas. I fill up on race gas before I hit the track or when I feel things are going to get interesting so no biggie there, do I need it at my powerlevels? mmmmaybe, but why take a chance with all the money i've dumped into this bucket to have some crappy pumpgas ruin my fun and engine?

Its also a turbo car, lower boost run on pump gas all day, ahh the beauty of it. But back on topic here, gotta love what this 3 bar map sensor addition is going to do for the LS1 FI world...
J

PS I have a rollbar and assorted race components on my daily driver(its my only car and its never trailered to the races....I dont have one ) so is it a race car?....I don't think so, its just what I need to run my car at the track without getting booted all the time. My car is 97% on the street and 3% raced at the track, we all have to make sacrifices at these levels. PM me if you want to discuss further so not to take away from this topic

Wicked_Hugger99

iTrader: (1)

Sorry for yet another off-topic post but I still consider this a street car and ill be running 93oct in it when trolling around town at 6-8psi and still be around 550-600rwhp i believe. If memory serves correct, the other turbo car they just did ( which is set up very similar to mine did 675rwhp on 93oct @10psi. IMHO, thats fairly stout for a street ride. Jims right bout runnin higher oct fuel at high boost levels cuz ill be damned if i run 93pump and 16psi and pop that lil 348. But even if im running 110oct in it and drivin on the street, ill still think of it as a street car since im driving around town in it. I always thought a "street car" was dubbed so because its simply driven on the street without any trouble regardless of fuel type. But as frcefed98 said, its all a matter of opinion. Just my double pennies. 3-bar map is kickin ****

frcefed98

iTrader: (16)

I also completely agree with you Wicked Hugger, thats a wicked street car you have there

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

Bryan, I went 136mph with belt slippage, have you bettered that 115mph run you had at Darlington? You posted a 12.5@115mph right?

Sounds like 400rwhp to me. With 800rwhp I would expect you to hit 145mph grannyshifting.

Wicked_Hugger99

iTrader: (1)

Thanks man. So is yours, no doubt

danimal95

iTrader: (2)

At that hp level I think of $5 per gal race fuel cheap insurance on a very expensive motor,my car requires mixed 110/93 makes 895rwhp yet my wife who weighs 103lbs and is 5'4" tall can drive it all day long,still a race car?And just out of curiosity how do you know where the limit of 93 octane is?run it on 93 till it blows up so you know your limit ,then rebuild it and know not to cross that line again? seems silly to me

hugger,your car sounded awsome on the dyno looks like next year Im gonna have to go twin turbos to keep you LS1 guys in check

danimal95

iTrader: (2)

sounds about right to me john(check sig)