Correct oil for my turbo setup...
02-14-2006, 12:02 PM
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Correct oil for my turbo setup... I apologize for re-asking what must be a common question, but my search only turned up hits from 2006...
The setup is a new LS6 forged 347, AFR225's, PTK 67 mm 0.96 A/R, FMIC, Alkycontrol 100% methanol. Using a catch can. Turbo oil is gravity return line.
Car will be run in California, temps 40 to 105. Nothing colder. Street car with very little track.
1) Break in with dino oil? Weight/interval?
2) Run which oil and weight after break-in? Redline or AMSOIL preferred?
I want to ensure that the turbo gets the best oil possible... well, the motor too...
Thanks in advance for any info,
Rich
The setup is a new LS6 forged 347, AFR225's, PTK 67 mm 0.96 A/R, FMIC, Alkycontrol 100% methanol. Using a catch can. Turbo oil is gravity return line.
Car will be run in California, temps 40 to 105. Nothing colder. Street car with very little track.
1) Break in with dino oil? Weight/interval?
2) Run which oil and weight after break-in? Redline or AMSOIL preferred?
I want to ensure that the turbo gets the best oil possible... well, the motor too...
Thanks in advance for any info,
Rich
02-14-2006, 12:34 PM
#2
Hah - oil and break in procedure. These are two very controversial topics. Doing a google search such as this > site:www.ls1tech.com break in oil ....will possibly give you results you can read for days.
Essentially, you can run Dino based (petrol) oil or as the new vettes do - synthetic based for break in. As far as weight - run what you like, 5w-30, 10w-30. Hell, I've broke motors in using 0W-30 synthetic...best motor with the most power so far.
Motor break-in procedure: I run mine hard, cool down time, run it hard, etc...heat cycling it. Many big race teams use this procedure. Either this or you can baby it for 500 miles and then run it hard.
Essentially, you can run Dino based (petrol) oil or as the new vettes do - synthetic based for break in. As far as weight - run what you like, 5w-30, 10w-30. Hell, I've broke motors in using 0W-30 synthetic...best motor with the most power so far.
Motor break-in procedure: I run mine hard, cool down time, run it hard, etc...heat cycling it. Many big race teams use this procedure. Either this or you can baby it for 500 miles and then run it hard.
02-15-2006, 01:38 AM
#5
A really practical one for Cal and turbos is to use the gallon bottles of Shell Rotella T Synthetic 15W-40. You can get it at Walmart for like $14 a gallon. It's rated for the long haul turbo diesel trucks and has a better additives package than most synthetic 4-stroke motorcycle oils. That way you can afford to change it every 3-5K miles, and still run a very solid synthetic.
I used to like Mobil 1 but they changed to a cheaper formulation like Castrol and kept the same (high) price.
I'd break it in on a regular 10W-30 Oil, something cheap like Chevron. Decent quality but you are using the oil as much for a flush/rinse as an lubricant, when you change it at first 50 and then 500 miles. Once more at 1200miles, run it to 3500 miles, then switch to the Rotella. Filter change each time.
Just my .02, but my blown 383 is liking it - the rings seated fully around 3200 miles, and when I drain the catch can after some hard runs, I'm only getting a few drops of oil, as opposed to the 5-6 Tablespoons I got while it was breaking in. Speed-Pro moly file-fit rings.
Jim
I used to like Mobil 1 but they changed to a cheaper formulation like Castrol and kept the same (high) price.
I'd break it in on a regular 10W-30 Oil, something cheap like Chevron. Decent quality but you are using the oil as much for a flush/rinse as an lubricant, when you change it at first 50 and then 500 miles. Once more at 1200miles, run it to 3500 miles, then switch to the Rotella. Filter change each time.
Just my .02, but my blown 383 is liking it - the rings seated fully around 3200 miles, and when I drain the catch can after some hard runs, I'm only getting a few drops of oil, as opposed to the 5-6 Tablespoons I got while it was breaking in. Speed-Pro moly file-fit rings.
Jim
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11-20-2006, 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by RW99
I'll bump this once to see if any Amsoil or Royal Purple addicts care to contribute...
AMSOIL TSO 0w-30 http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/tso.aspx?zo=1436102
or the
AMSOIL AFL 5w-40 http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/afl.aspx?zo=1436102
Both oils have been real good in LSx engines and both have worked well in turbo engines of various makes.
My 2 cents!
11-20-2006, 10:38 PM
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I ran cheap 10-40 oil in it for a couple dyno sessions, I wanted to make sure the rings seated. I change it a few times. Then switched to Amsoil 20-50.
11-21-2006, 11:35 AM
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Royal Purple makes a point of saying that their XPR in 5W20 and 10W40 is specifically built: Since I spray methanol, should I go this route? Does Amsoil have similar claims?
Thanks again for all of your input...
These two oils are formulated to combat fuel emulsification to hold up even better than Royal Purple's other racing oils in alcohol and methanol applications.
Thanks again for all of your input...
11-21-2006, 11:58 AM
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I am using mobil 5000 regular oil for the break in. I heat cycled my car for two 45 min intervals. Then took it out for a good drive not going over 4500 rpm's. I have 289 miles so far and have dynoed it and made one pass @ the track. I am with Delta T. My car has about 4 to 5 table spoons in the catchcan. But its normal in my opinion. 20+ vac cruising is sucking on the motor rather well. Once I get @ least 2k on it I will go to German Castrol 0-30 w 
11-21-2006, 01:49 PM
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How Important Is Running Specific Oil
1)Resist thermal breakdown better than traditional synthetics
2)Show reduced volatility at high temps (less coking, build up of gunk in lines, etc.)
3)Coat parts extremely well AND flow easily through the turbo
4)Resist alteration when exposed to methanol
5)Last for 2500 miles
11-21-2006, 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by RW99
I think you'll get a lot of opinions on this question. For me, I want an oil that will:
1)Resist thermal breakdown better than traditional synthetics
2)Show reduced volatility at high temps (less coking, build up of gunk in lines, etc.)
3)Coat parts extremely well AND flow easily through the turbo
4)Resist alteration when exposed to methanol
5)Last for 2500 miles
1)Resist thermal breakdown better than traditional synthetics
2)Show reduced volatility at high temps (less coking, build up of gunk in lines, etc.)
3)Coat parts extremely well AND flow easily through the turbo
4)Resist alteration when exposed to methanol
5)Last for 2500 miles
nice explanation,but amsoil only last 2500 miles?
