Schantin

iTrader: (6)

I'm not sure why, but oil is leaking from the turbo oil housing into the compressor housing and getting blown through the entire intake and into the throttle body.

I had a bad connection on the oil return pump a couple weeks ago that set off the buzzer (which I since fixed with solder) That's the 1st time I got oil into the intake piping. I attributed that to the bad connector on the oil return pump. I cleaned everything off and thought y probs were solved.

Now, the pump is running, no buzzer, but I'm still getting oil pushied into the intake. I was clued into this because I ran it at the track and it only did a 13.6@107 the first run. That was worse than NA. I saw I had good boost, but just wasn't feeling it. Pulled the intake pipe and saw the oil. It's a nice thin film coating.... and coating the MAF and IAT too (which means the car was pulling a $hitload of timing...giving me the crappy performance.) I've also noticed that most times the oil pressure is about 45PSI when cruising and about 60PSI at WOT, but at times the pressure will stay at 60PSI for a minute or so, even at lower RPM's. Could this be that the return line is somehow getting pinched and causing to much pressure? Sure it's not the pressure line as that's a straight shot from the oil filter to the turbo.

So, now what? I heard from another member that there's a check valve on the oil feed line going INTO the turbo. Could a bad check valve be the problem? I also learned from TRT that the turbo doesn't have a gasket, but rather a ring that seals the oil. Anyone heard of this ring going bad? The turbo was bought used from a friend, but was only 6 months old. He never had this problem. Do you think the oil pump problem I had blew this ring?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. This is getting frustrating. I'm sure I'll be needing to change my plugs now too....and clean the MAF, IAT, and intake pipes again.

BTW, the car DOES NOT blow any smoke at WOT. A friend was watching me run, said the exhaust was smoke-free...... just that the car was definetly looking sluggish.

Again, any help is GREATLY appreciated. I'm out of ideas!

trtturbo

iTrader: (25)

The check valve will keep oil from dripping in while the car is sitting.
Feel free to call if I can help.

Schantin

iTrader: (6)

Pulled the check valve. It's good. I cleaned the intake pipe from the MAF up and stuffed a rag as far as it would go into the K-member pipe to clean out the oil. Took the car out for a short drive....felt much better, but I already have oil on the MAF again. This is beginning to really irritate me.

I guess next I'll have to pull EVERY intake pipe off the car and clean it. If I get oil in the MAF again I'll know it's not residual. Doesn't leave many parts... resistor, pump, or the turbo itself

BTW, the feed and return were working. The feed line gave a constant stream of oil, but the return was more "spurting oil" through the oil cap rather than a nice constant stream of oil. Is this normal? Possibly part of the problem? If so...what the heck is the fix?

Any input appreciated.

NYSS Guy

iTrader: (1)

Maybe Billy (trtturbo) can chime in better, but I think the oil return should kick into a higher speed when the car is under boost. Maybe your oil pump is not hitting that higher "gear" to pull the oil out of the turbo?? Then maybe it's pooling up, and making it's way through the intake. Just a thought. Good luck.

WicketMike

iTrader: (13)

im having a similar problem, but im getting alot of oil and smoke out the exhuast.

not sure what the problem is. It seems to only be doing it on decleration and now im starting to get it at WOT.

not sure of the problem yet

Schantin

iTrader: (6)

I was actually thinking the same thing. The wiring harness wasn't the same as the directions from STS. Had a phone conversation on how to "hook it up". The 1st pic is how the switches are actually hooked up on my car.


This second pic was the instructions provided by STS. The differences are noted in red.



As you can see I only had two wires in my entire harness for a three wire hookup into the pressure switch (blue, red, and brown) + the red wire to the PCV switch. I was told to hook the red and brown to the PCV sensor, and run my own wire from the sensor to the switch. This "homemade" wire connector is the green wire in the picture. Because this wiring/ harness from STS differs from their instruction manual, hard to tell that I have the pump hooked right and that it actually IS redirecting voltage at boost to go into "high volume" mode.

This brings up another question. Would there be any adverse affects on the pump if I just bypassed the pressure switch and let the pump run in high-volume mode all the time? I'm thinking of "adverse things" like the pump overheating and quitting after an hour of use or similiar, not slightly degraded pump life.

I know the pressure switch rigged into the return pump wiring and the vacuum source is providing this switchover. At 1PSI positive pressure it's supposed to increase the pump voltage for high volume (by bypassing the resistor through the relay I think.....as I believe in-line resistor is the limiting voltage factor to the pump otherwise.) I performed STS's check, which is to jump the circuit terminals on the pressure switch to test the pump goes into high-volume mode (and in a way test the resistor.) Problem is, this check doesn't test if the pressure switch is actually functioning, nor the relay. There's no way I could ever hear if the pump is going into high volume mode when I'm at WOT with a dump pipe, making positive boost, and a TR224 cam screaming, so I really don't know if it's working right or even wired right.

I appreciate all the help I've received and any that can still be provided.


Any opinion and advice appreciated.

TIM Z

iTrader: (12)

where and how is your switch valve hooked up? on my truck i had oil issues and my buzzer did not work.But after seeing a STS email and RE reading my directions, I noticed that the GROUND wire in my harness was hooked to my valve cover bolt,(my fault). So i hooked that wire back on my switch valve and NO more PROBLEMS! I thought that the ground wire needed to ground the harness some how, but it is actually already grounded and is needed to ground the switch valve cause its monted to my plastic intake manifold. Hope this helps.

trtturbo

iTrader: (25)

On the later kits, there are only 2 wires going to the pressure switch, so dont worry that you only have two.
Try taking the vacume line off of the exit side of the pressure switch. With the car running and someone to listen to the pump, blow into the switch/vacume line. The pump should turn on high. It should be easy to notice.
The only issue of running the pump on high is more noise and the pump is working harder. It wont make it go out in 2 weeks or anything, but it would have an effect running harder.
Try what I said above and let me know.

Schantin

iTrader: (6)

First of all, thanks to everyone who's been helping me so far. I appreciate the input


OK, here's what I've got now. I ran a jumper across the pressure switch. Pump ran faster. Blew into the vacuum line going to the pressure switch. Pump went into high-volume mode as advertised. So, now I know the pressure switch, resistor, check valve, and relays are functioning properly. Also know the pump is operating as designed. I know that I'm getting a nce steady stream of oil pumped into the turbo from the engine. I also know that I have oil going back into th valve cover from the return pump through the return line (it "spurts" in from the oil cap rather than pours....if that means anything to anyone.) So, no blockage is present in the return line per se, and a visual check and some light tugs on the line show it's not binding or pinched anywhere.

So, what now? I took a pic of the PCV pressure switch vacuum line interface. It's on the vacuum line by the PCM and AC lines. So, is this connected to a good spot? Bad vacuum would prevent the pump from switching to high-flow.


Also, though I don't see how this could cause my problem, my PCV is routed a bit different. I had an AMW catchcan and incorporated it into the system. If you see any flaws...like putting it after the STS PCV switch and not before, please chime in. Two pics are provided for a visual reference.




I guess to be fair I ned to pull every intake pipe and clean the crap outta them to ensure there's no oil residual oil in the system. I cleaned the MAF again today, and realized that the amount of oil on it was much less than yesterday. I might just et lucky here and only need to give everything a good cleaning. That won't happen till the coming weekend unfortunately.

Now, if this problem comes back....damn, I'll be totally out of answers, except to blame the turbine itself. Guess I have some cleaning to do followed by some careful monitoring.....

Thanks agian for the help and appreciate any further input.