TryingT/A

iTrader: (5)

How much power do i really need??? Modding your car is so damn addicting, that you can't see where stop. Some get a few bolt ons and nos and say they won't go farther than that. I think that's

I know I won't get the money back, but I didn't buy the car as an investment but rather a dream come true. My dd is a cadillac sts so the t/a is my garage showpeice. I'm 21 and owned the t/a for a year, and don't ever plan on selling it.

I'm happy with the mods i have now (below) but planned on getting a s/c like a procharger d1sc or vortech v9 with some 42lbers and a t-rex or walbro fuel pump. That should put me at almost 550 rwhp.
Now i'm thinking I should get a twin or big *** turbo instead

I'm not part of the lucky sperm club nor am i rich, but i remodel and sell houses/condos so $$$ comes eventually.
I live in IL, and take my car to Speed inc. which put f-bodies in the 1000 hp range. I was thinking I should save up for one of thier sustom eliminator turbo's ($7200) which would give me over 700rwhp. I wanted to avoid the turbo route, but if you have a good shop around it's okay to be high maintenance.

I don't drag race, I just wanna kill whatevers on the street. So do you guys think that spending 6 grand more is really worth it. I will get wider tires but not to where i have to do a wheel well or fender mod.

am I going to see a big mpg diff with 76lb injectors and 14lbs of boost while at cruising speeds?? (I know if I punch it, I will)
I will be happy with the dyno sheet, but the driveability??? I already gas it to cold start it.

Did you guys notice a difference in the driveability going above 600rwp or is it worth the multiple key turns????

Schantin

iTrader: (6)

Personal opinion, you can never have enough HP As for forced induction, yes it is very addictive. I smiled like a fool for hours the first time I felt the boost push me back into the seat. It comes at a price. It's finicky. I've spent a good month ironing out the little bugs that come from forcing air into an engine that wasn't designed for it. A pain and frustrating at times, yes. But the problems are being ironed out and in the long run I'll have a reliable street driven car with an a$$load of HP.

If you have PATIENCE, it's the way to go. If you want to install and forget, the NA method with heads and cam is the best route. Or the F it option and leave well enough alone.

TryingT/A

iTrader: (5)

Thanks Schantin. definitely don't want to install and forget, always improvement to be made. I've ran into probs myself but well worth it. If something were to happen with the mods, speed inc. would fix it no problem, even no labor charges if it's a quick part install.

Your 'camaro looks awesome with the z06 rims!

2002 Trans Am

I think you'll be spending a hell of a lot more than 6K if your gonna do a turbo kit.

T-Rex is a big no no
fuel upgrades are a must
methanol is nice too

TryingT/A

iTrader: (5)

sorry you misunderstood 02 ta. I'd be spending 6 grand MORE on turbo setup than s/c.

how I figure:
s/c = 5k
42lb inj = 300
fuel pump = 350
labor = 1000
TOTAL = an overestimated $7000

Custom turbo = $7200
big *** injectors = $400
trans = 2000
rear end = 2-3 grand
ds = 300
Total = 6k over the s/c but i'm thinking well worth it

like i said, i might keep it forever so will driveable on the street with that much hp???

ABeasst

iTrader: (5)

thats the good thing about a turbo you can just turn it down when you're putting around and wont notice it until you hit it.

TryingT/A

iTrader: (5)

agreed. the turbo package I am considering comes with boost regulator and necessary plumbing.

Turn it down for the road, turn it up for the moose tangs.

Frost

iTrader: (45)

You left the rear end out of the SC setup; that brings the price closer together. Both setups will run out of RPMs early with 4.10s, so that's something to think about with the rear as well. Also at 700RW, you need to look at a different pump arrangement than a single 255, a new supply line (use stock line as a return), a FMFPR, and the associated fittings. Don't forget incidentals like guages. A wideband, fuel pressure guage and tuning solution will cost about a grand also, and both setups will need this.

Just some thoughts.

Spenser309

your gonna need a shortblock for 700hp. Tuning should be about a grand; if you do it yourself. fpr, lines, 2xpumps, rails. $700-$800. 3 bar map(iono $). injectors are more in the $500-600 range. How are you gonna hook up 76lb inj to the stock computer? The biggest injectors i know of that will work with the stock computer are motron 60lbers. Which will get to 700bhp but are almost maxed out. with big injectors you need a converter box or a fuel only EMS but the converter boxes seem to not have the resolution for a good idle. Iono my .02.

EDawg

700 rwhp turbo done right=20k++

TryingT/A

iTrader: (5)

you're right frost. I forgot to consider a rear end for a s/c setup but thought stock might last if i'm not launching hard. But I shift pretty fast and at high rpms so who knows how far the stock rear will last. I also need to spend 2k on heads for either application.

I understand that I would need two 255L fuel pumps for turbo app. but didn't think about the supply line. I also forgot to take into consideration a fuel management system like Big Stuff 3 for the turbo app.

Edawg is right, a 700 hp turbo app done right would cost about 20 grand, twice as much as the s/c application. But will i regret not going the extra mile, when i have it??

I don't want to have to sell a used s/c and keep spending $550 on forced induction dynotuning.

My shop offers dual stage fuel injection on turbo apps. where an extra fuel cell holding 7 gallons of racing fuel comes into effect when the primary injectors are at 90% duty.
This would raise the peak hp range dramatically.

Thanks for the input guys.

68ss_00ss_87_95

iTrader: (1)

my motor setup cost me close to 15k but i had to buy new EVERYTHING....water hurts motor ...i got my old sc kit for 5500 almost 6k for d1sc setup...new motor and everything needed to handle boost was about 10k...i also upgraded to 9" full locker and clutch....drives kinda difficult right now due to idle problems and break in period but its perfectly fine cruising....i put out some decent numbers w/ it, im happy so far.....until my tranny started shifting wierd....also have a tremec now instead of stock t56.....theres always stuff to spend money on so now im waiting for the tranny/clutch or driveshaft to go....those alone arent too bad to fix.....good luck with your decision 700hp is a beast for a street car im happy pushin almost 6

markp03

iTrader: (4)

you dont NEED new heads....just get a set of 6.0L heads to lower compression....you will make more HP with a set of heads, but you could save that money for now and just run a little more boost to make up for the power loss.

BlkHwk

iTrader: (8)

When I did my SC I put over 10k in the car with a few suspention, exhaust,clutch, tires,gauges and pulley upgrades, tuning, laptop, and scanning software. Except for tuning I did all my own work.

Now I am getting the motor I should have done when I did the SC which is going to be well over 10k when finished. When that is done I will still have trans, driveshaft and rear upgrades to do. Whether you go turbo or s/c @ those hp levels your gonna spend some coin.

Good Luck

Spenser309

your gonna need a turbo kit(turbo piping, intercooler piping, intercooler, turbo, wg, bov and Downpipe). $7000
injectors, $600
wb02, $200
tires, $400
clutch, $1000
tuning software/hardware, $850 or $2500
9",12 bolt or dana 60, $2500
driveshaft, $400
Id get at least a basic rebuild on the tranny, $1000
fuel pumps, $500
rails, $200
lines, $100
Fuel Pressure Regulator, $200
Pistons(get the -25cc dish diamonds so you can use the stock heads), rods, machining, $3000
ls6 intake. $350
cam(i think MM uses the 98" cam and has made 700+). $400 or $40

Total 18,340 minimum 20,350 max. And that dont include rims or install. Those prices are preatty close to retail on all of this stuff. Except the tranny rebuild aint have a clue on that.

You could see what RCeng would charge for some custom high impedence 80#ers(dont be supprised if there more than 1k which would save you some money and keep the car more street car like)

DeltaT

iTrader: (5)

You should be able to use the available hi-impedance RC Eng 72lb. injectors. They are rated 72 at 43psi, so on your LS with its 58psi they should be about 76-78lb/hr.

I think you are underestimating your tranny cost with that level of HP unless you go to a 3 speed (built TH400). Hate to give up that OD for a street car though. You may need a built 4L80E.

Jim

Spenser309

i thought he was going to stay 6 speed?

Thoose RCeng Injectors are the way to go. I had no clue they existed.

Wicked_Hugger99

iTrader: (1)

voted turbo like one of speed incs kits. That way you can run up the boost from inside the car and run 5psi or 15psi or however much ur motor can take whenever ya want. I love it and mine made great power on pump gas and C16 and since you live near speed inc then thats just a big bonus!!!! Wish i did

TryingT/A

iTrader: (5)

I definitely will stay 6 speed.
I'd rather run less boost for a while until I decide on a rear end and trans.
It will be nice to have the power and not need it, then need it and not have it.
That's the beauty of a turbo, you can run as much boost as most superchargers, or turn it up to make twice as much.
I can probably avoid getting a clutch until the spec3 goes out, and I would not keep the stock heads if I'm to spend so much for pistons and rods

Spenser309

hey tryingT/A that **** i said earlier about big injectors ignore that, those 72lb high impedence RCeng injectors with the stock computer would be the way to go. good to about 850hp or so.