ChevyLaxMan

Is it worth it to turbo and forge an Lt1 or should i go with a 6.0 or Ls2? I wanna make a lot of hp! What is the Lt1 block good for?

DeltaT

iTrader: (5)

Many LT1s have a 2-bolt main. For serious power, you should consider upgrading it to 4-bolt, splayed outer mains, with steel caps. You might also consider a 'short' fill of Hard Blok block filler before you clean up the bore. Add ARP main and head studs and you should have no problems with boost up to maybe 12psi if you keep the revs under 6500.

I did all this except I started with a 4-bolt block. Everything's working great and my current fwhp is right around 740, and I haven't hooked up either nitrous stage yet (50-100HP each stage planned). I spin it to about 6500 on a full blast run.

The short fill comes up to the bottom of the freeze plugs, and is pretty easy to do.

Jim

Silver02Z28

iTrader: (2)

Watch the pistons. I broke three on my LT1 Vette under detonation at 7 psi. I went forged and upped the boost after that.

EPP

iTrader: (22)

Are you asking for the '97 C5 in your signature? Bob

engineermike

Big Rick has run as quick as 8.0 at 174 mph with a production LT1 block. As far as I know, no LS1 has gone that quick with a production block.

I'm running 21 - 22 psi boost with a .060" over LT1 block, no fill, 4 bolt non-splayed steel caps.

Blown383

iTrader: (2)

Is there any reason why one should go with block fill and what are the advantages/disadvantages? My 383 is getting ready for final assembly in a week!

-B

T/A KID

iTrader: (12)

Bob and everyone Else help me answer this question???
I have a VRE 9:1 CR 383, Ported AFR heads, and a D1SC setup. It will be about 5-6 months till I get everthing (SUMMER will be GONE).
Right now I have a Healthy Bolt-on LT1 that runs mid 12's using stock internals, cam, and heads. I am acutally thinking about puttin my D1SC on it with my FMIC and run about 6-7 lbs of boost at 6000 RPM. I want to keep the revs down and the boost will be intercooled. For the tune I would want a Dyno tune but I will have to settle for Byran at PCMforless, he has tuned many blower cars and can nail my A/F ratio in the 11.5 range.

If the motor goes then I have a backup Forged 383 to take its place.

I just want to have some fun right now I hope I am not getting greedy, also I know the D1SC is the bigger blower over the P1SC but could I see 6-7lbs with a D1SC?????

engineermike

You have to hone it after it's filled as the filler distorts the bore when it cures.

ABeasst

iTrader: (5)

the W2W car was running a 6.0 iron block which is a production block and ran 6s.

But are there any shorties or manifolds that can be turned around to face forward for a turbo kit?

DeltaT

iTrader: (5)

To add to what Mike said (good advice), adding block filler supports the lower third of the cylinder wall, and increases the rigidity of the upper 2/3 by about 100%, by shortening the unsupported wall.

I did it as cheap insurance for higher power. David Vizard recommends it in his book on modifying the small block Chevy on a budget (no HD aftermarket block).

It doesn't affect the cooling that I can see - most of the heat gets transferred in the upper third of the cylinder wall. I used Hard Block from Summit. I think it was $75. Pretty easy to do but it takes 4 days (do 1 bank, then cure, then the other bank, then cure).

Jim

NoMoreLS1

iTrader: (65)

LT1s can make excellent power. My LT1 makes a lot of power and there are others out there that even make more than mine.

ChevyLaxMan

No, but I'd sure like to make my 94 9c1 stupid fast. I just don't want to waste money building up a motor that might have limited potential. What might 700hp cost from a turbo lt1 versus a turbo lsx/truck motor?