Dave D

Ok all- I did a search and found nothing. I am getting back into building this car after complete frustration with it, and have some questions. I read in HRM that a 98 block is not good to build for turbo apps due to it's oiling capacities. They said if you build a motor over 500+ get a 99 or later block. My question is have any of you actually built a 97-8 block and has it held up or do you recommend losing the block? Thanks.

Lasershop

iTrader: (2)

Early blocks (I have a '97) are not as strong as the newer ones. Later blocks are a bit beefier and they enlarged the oil passage at the rear. I have put a lot of bucks into mine but quite honestly if I knew then what I know now I would have gone with an iron block. My block (fully machined) at this point is about the only thing original on the motor. Then again, very seldom, if ever have I actually heard of an LS aluminum block grenading. You are definitely going to replace the '98 heads if you have not done already.

Cheatin' Chad

iTrader: (3)

It'll be fine as long as the machine work is good.

The later model block are slightly better overall.

MYTURBOT/A

I'm making about 700rwhp on my 98 block. I'm even still using factory main bolts..

98Ztwentyeight

iTrader: (2)

I do claims adjusting and i just saw a 1998 ls1 main bolt let loose in

a camaro for no reason at all. I have also seen this in a 2001. no

evidence of nitrous or power adders on either vehicle.

Both did let loose on the highway at cruising speeds.

no lack of lube or bluing of the bearings....

both bolts cracked right in half.

kp

iTrader: (34)

My old 98 block I ran last year was fine after some serious 12-15psi use, still running fine in an N/A car..

98Ztwentyeight

iTrader: (2)

damn nice #'s 9's thats too much car for me

kp

iTrader: (34)

Best on on the old 98 block/heads was 9.78 @ 138. I didnt want to push the stock connecting rods too far with the old motor

Dave D

Thanks everyone for the reply. I wasnt sure if I should find a later block due to oiling problems I had heard of. I will do heads, blower cam, intake, plus forged internals on this motor, but didnt know if I would lose this due to an oiling problem. Plus that hot rod article has me scared about the block! I havent decided if I should do a 383 lunati kit or just get rods and pistons, and keep the stock cubes. I am hearing more towards leaving stock cubes o nthe posts i have seen. I am aiming for 15 psi.

Hersker Hans

Did you run 9.78 on a stock bottom end?

NA$TY-TA

iTrader: (21)

The bottom end had forged pistons and aftermarket rod bolts. Other then that everything else was stock.... ie rods, crank.....

eb02z06

iTrader: (18)

How good are the stock rods if one where to build a budget shortblock? I mean most Z06's easily make 600rwhp with just a A&A Pisc kit making 8-9lbs. If you where on a budget couldn't you just spend the money on rod bolts and new forged pistons? Or what about the 6.0l truck rods-aren't they a bit beefier?

kp

iTrader: (34)

The only reason I had stock rods/ARP bolts was the motor was built in 1999 and there were no cheap LS1 connecting rod solutions at the the time. Plus no one was thinking of the power levels you are seeing today. 500rwhp was big time lol.

Yes they worked, would I use stock rods in a new motor that I knew would be making 500+ rwhp and over 6700rpm? probably not. But I will say the stock rods are pretty tough with good bolts, I cant believe they never broke in mine