BIG BAD BLACKSS

iTrader: (4)

Seems all the guys running the best #s on a D1SC are runnin 346's? Im looking to build a shortblock that will be driven on the street but leans alot more towards the track then street. Is the 346 better as itll see more boost faster due to less cubes to fill? I know the bigger cubes are probably better down low, but im more intrested in low ETs then street manners. Anyone wanna tell me why they chose the cubes they did with their procharger setups? Yu turbos guys feel free to chime in too. I wanna do this right the first time as i dont have $ to be throwing away on an unmatched setup. Thanx for any advice anyone can give me!

Lil bit about the build, ive decided to go with the D1SC and im looking to push it near its limits and try to get all it has out of it. Ive got the D1SC coming in about a week but still havnt decided on the motor. Id like to stay around 6000 for the shortblock and heads. I was considering the speed inc 370 iron block with stock crank, eagle rods, and diamond pistons setup for boost. They are looking at i beleive 3749 for taht shortblock. Same one they run 1000 RWHP with on their shop car! I was thinking about the dart heads but the oil issue bugs me, and i dunno if i can afford the AFRs or not. May have to order the shrtblock and save up a lil more for the heads. Im still totally open to cams and im leaning towards an LS6 intake?

Chicago Crew UnderBoss

iTrader: (1)

When it comes to modding LS1s and after owning 4 C5s and modding all of them my current car, a D1SC ECS 02 Z06, keeping it as simple as possilbe=the best results and reliability. The 346 D1SC set-ups have way less issues with belt slippage, pulley alignment, and our much more low maintenance, and of course a stock cubed LSX motor that is BLOWN, makes crazy power more than you can ever use on the street.

At 10lbs of boost i am at 600rwhp and am having a forged shortblock 347 built with LME as we speak, which will allow me to safely turn up the wick to 14 lbs of boost. With my stock LS6 heads and a nice all aroud blower cam that will kick azz in the lower rpms and make HUGE POWER on top, a 224/230, .595 lift on a 114 lsa, I will be making at in excess of 700rwhp reliable HP and will have the power to have a 9.XX street driven Z06, asuming traction, no breakage and driver skill at the track.

The stock cubed forged D1SC setup is the most simple, reliable D1SC set-up you can have that is more than enuff to make STUPID POWER and is the way to go in my opinion (and of course its also the most economical way to go) and will have the smallest amount of issues vs. it stroked and bored competiton!!

4bangermustang

iTrader: (24)

go with the 370...i am

98Z28MASS

iTrader: (6)

If you need budget heads go with patriots 6.0 liter heads to kep the engines compression low. Def stay with the ls6 as guys are making insane numbers with the stock ls6 inatke mainfold and FI. Id say go with a fairly mild cam, maybe an ls6 cam, as its know for working well with boost. Finally, you can get a forged 346/347 block from Texas-Speed for only around $2700-$2800. That block is more than stout enough for 10+ psi and would make around 600 rwhp or so.

CHRISPY

That D1SC isn't even breathing hard at 600RWHP with a six speed. I know guys pushing 750RWHP through TH400 trans unlocked with that blower.

I like the idea of a 402 with D1SC pullied to around 15#'s boost. It'll make 800RWHP easily. Whether or not you have all the supporting mods is a different story

I would go front mount intercooler instead of the 4.5 inch core ATI dual coolers if it is an all out application. You'll also need to consider upgraded bracketry as well.

BIG BAD BLACKSS

iTrader: (4)

Im gonna be moving up to a front mount after i get the drivetrain and motor together. Im just trying to decide if the D1 can support the bigger cubes. Itll boost a 408 with dart or AFR 225s to 15 PSI? I thought it wouldnt be able to keep up with a big motor and boost that high.

Im just wondering why KP and PSJ and i know at least one other procharger car that all run single digits are running 346/355 cubes.

98Z28MASS

iTrader: (6)

I dont think a 408 would see 15 psi from a ds1c but I could be wrong. Guys are running 9's on stock cubed ls1's/ds1c's because they can make crazy power (600+ rwhp) and they have the tranny/rear end to handle the power and get it to the ground. A 408 will work with a ds1c, but id step up to an F1 or turbo if I were running that sized engine. Good luck though with the build and let us know what you end up going with.

mahhddgtp

I would go turbo with anything over 346... Mainly because I'm a street guy who's going to want some tread on the tires... Engines above 346 are going to have so much power regardless that it'll be hard to actually put it to the ground.. You don't need that much low-end power if you're just going to spin anyways.

98Z28MASS

iTrader: (6)

Unless its a roots/positive displacement SC though your not going to see boost until around 3000 rpm I believe, whereas a turbo is going to make a lot more torque downlow so I think the DS1C would be a better fit for the street than a turbo setup IMO. Either way though both setups will make for a fun ride.

BIG BAD BLACKSS

iTrader: (4)

Im just wondering what would be my best route to lowest ETs. Big cubes with a lil less boost, or less cubes with more boost? I dont think the D1SC will get up to 15lbs on a 408 thats why im wondering if the smaller cubes would have more potential as itll be under higher boost? Unless im mixing something up and that very well could be!

98Z28MASS

iTrader: (6)

Well bigger cubes is pretty much almost always better, but if your on a budget I say get a forged 346/347 from texas-speed, grab some 6.0 liter patriot heads, an ls6 cam, ls6 intake mainfold, pacesetter longtubes, and the ds1c. Figure if you run anywhere over 10 psi you will be seeing 500+ rwhp and witht he proper tranny and rear end combo 10's will be obtainable and maybe even single digits.

CHRISPY

My buddy has a 396 (LT1) and makes 750RWHP through an unlocked th400 trans with the D1. Runs low 9s@147ish mph at a heavy raceweight (3700 pounds)

engineermike

With a supercharger, more cid will always make more power than less cid. With a turbo, there are some complicated issues that sometimes give a smaller motor a slight advantage over a big one.

DeltaT

iTrader: (5)

I think the bigger the base motor, the lower (numerical) gears you should run. I have a Vortech-blown 383, but with a 3:73 it spins the tires way too easy. I wish I were running a 3:23 now. This is with sticky but non-drag radials (BFG 275/40/17 KD). Figure drag radials get mandatory as you add any serious cubes. It's exciting and intimidating to be able to light the tires at 50, but sooner or later a lower powered car with traction will smoke me.

That being said, I love a large motor with a centrifugal blower. You have plenty of power, then if you put your foot down you have GOBS of power.

Building a forged 383 is about the same cost as forging a 346, so I'm gonna vote 383 with the blower.

Jim

BIG BAD BLACKSS

iTrader: (4)

The car will be driven with a BFG or nitto drag radial on it the rest of its life. My LT1 ran BFG drag radials constantly. I dont mind paying for sticky tires. Ive heard teh M/T radial actually wears somewhat descent so i may try those since they are supposed to be super sticky.I have a truck for when its gonna rain so tahts not an issue. Car will only be driven to work every now n then. Like i was saying my goal is a low ET first and foremost, and i want as much power as i can afford to build right now.

98Z28MASS

iTrader: (6)

Damn, how much peak boost does he see with the ds1c on the 396? I figured that the DS1C wouldnt see more than maybe 10-12 PSI on anything larger than a 383? Thats insane though, 9s@147 at 3700 pounds!

EPP

iTrader: (22)

An LS1 or LS6 block only requires a 4.0" stroke on the crank to make a 382/383, no expensive cylinder liners, no expensive machining. 800 rwhp is certainly feasible with this cubic inch, combined with a good cam and good heads, and 14 to 16 psi of boost with an ATI ProCharger D-1SC.
We currently have an '04 caddy CTS-V at the shop from New York that we are building it's LS6 engine using a Callies Racemaster crankshaft, Callies Compstar rods, Diamond pistons, and Total Seal rings. We will be reusing the stock LS6 heads, and a mild upgrade on the cam up from the stock LS6 camshaft. Kook's 1 7/8" headers and cats are going to be used, along with a Magnaflow exhaust system. On top of this we will be adding our ATI ProCharger D-1SC package, and we'll probably shoot for 14 psi of boost. It will be interesting to see what rwhp we see with 14 psi of boost with this combination. Bob

SVC707

iTrader: (33)

i voted 402-408 only becuse i have a 408 already being built but im not for the track so im not sure what itll run. plus i plan on running my stock gearing ratio to keep the tires from spinning as much and i wont run out of rpms too fast, same went for when i was on the bottle. i dint want to be shifting hella early since im more of a freeway person. but i was told with a 408 you wouldnt need to have as much boost to hit the hp/tq numbers. im just builing mine for kicks.

BIG BAD BLACKSS

iTrader: (4)

Can anyone that choose the smaller cubes explain a lil why they chose what they did?

Hype

they do it either because of money issues, or for simplicity of keeping your original engine, or it might be easier to drive although ultimately have lower potential than the higher cubed version.

More cubes has the potential for more power. However, a 346/7 is more than enough to hit just about any ET as compared to a 402. Look at your budget, you know which engines will be cheaper.

Good luck with your build