JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Hey guys, got a stock 99 TA M6. I've already upgraded the brakes and suspension, have 3.73 gears and am ready for some extra power. I came into some money and was considering some kind of forced induction as they have always been cool.

I don't race my car. In fact, it's never seen a 1/4 mile track. It's my daily driver. So I don't care about big HP or race related stuff. I just want something that can be driven everyday and can pull away from most everything on the road. I especially feel the need for more power above 100mph. I doubt I'd spend much time above 150 or 160, so I'd like more power from 100-160mph range. I don't know if a turbo or supercharger would be best, but I figure a stock engine is about 350hp, so maybe upping it to 500hp would be enough.

For that power can someone make a short list of what costs would be involved?
Would I need an upgraded rear end or tranny?
I figure a new clutch would be needed.
Would $5K be enough to do this or should I look at getting headers, cam and maybe heads?

ty_ty13

iTrader: (42)

5k$ is not enough... that will barely cover the cost of just the procharger

JMBLOWNWS6

iTrader: (17)

Are you looking to buy a new system or used?

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Really? I can go a bit higher, maybe 7K or 8K.
So you think I should keep it normally aspirated?

I can get used stuff, doesn't matter to me. I don't know jack about all this, so a used kit would need all the parts. I know I would have trouble sourcing a bunch of small pieces.

JMBLOWNWS6

iTrader: (17)

Its totally up to you. I just feel most people that get into FI end up pushing the limits of the stock bottom end. I would really consider a forged bottom end. Im not saying the stock engine wont hold up its just added insurance. Things I would upgrade go as follows.

1. Fuel system upgrade. Racetronix pump/BAP with motron 60's.
2. Clutch as you have allready stated.
3. Headers
4. A good tune. Which is the key.
5. PCV system modded for boost.
6. Boost gauge and pod.
7. And pick out which system you want to run. Vortech,Procharger or a turbo system.
6. Tr 6's gapped @ .035
7. Z06 cam and 918 springs with hardnend pushrods.
8. A electric fuel pressure gauge. You want to know when your running out of pressure.

ty_ty13

iTrader: (42)

well if all you want is 500rwhp I'd get heads, cam and nitrous... that would take about 5k

im about to take my car in to finish it up monday.

and FI is EXPENSIVE

used D1 with FMIC about 4k$
short block motor 4k$
cam 300
th350 and converter 2500
gmpp with machining 400$
elbow 200
rails 150$
injectors 400


thats just a few basics

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

No, I was thinking 500hp at the crank. I didn't want to push the stock block too hard.
If it's going to be out of my budget, I may just replace the rearend, get headers, cam and tune. I don't like nitrous and don't want to have to fill the bottle all the time.
Maybe I can get 400-430hp at the crank with just those mods. I know new heads can really jack the price way up, but might get another 70hp or so. Do you think that is the smarter thing to do with only about $5K?
I'm sure I can find other things to spend the rest of my money on.

ty_ty13

iTrader: (42)

for stock cubes do a nice set of the 215 ET heads or the 205 AFR heads

with a 23x/23x .58x/.60x 112 or 114 lsa cam and youll have a nice quick ride.

dont get caught up in weight reduction if you just a street car.

get a good rear and some gears 4.10s if you a stick car 3.73 if an auto.

stick with the FAST or ls6 intake and a 90mm TB
1 3/4 headers and a good exhaust (i like my loudmouth with the dynomax bullet)

i would talk to TEA or AFR for a nice head cam package.

jRaskell

iTrader: (1)

Heads, cam, and all the supporting bolt-ons should easily put you in the 400-430rwhp range. If that really is your upper goal, don't bother with FI. It's overkill for low 400rwhp.

FormulaFire

iTrader: (20)

I'd go the Nitrous route for your budget and power wants

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

I don't understand how nitrous would be an option for me. Would I have to turn it on everytime I wanted to pass someone on the freeway? It would get used up really quickly. Would it last long enough for me to go from 100-160mph?

I figured nitrous was more for street racing or 1/4 mile, none of which I do. I'm more of a road course racing kind of guy.

NoTicketsPlease

iTrader: (2)

what about the sts guys? Would be about 5k for kit, gauges, and tune running at 5psi. That would give you about 400 at the wheels? Then if you upgrade your fuel system you can run at 7-8 psi and hit 500 flywheel AFAIK.

Superman09

iTrader: (65)

Your could probably do a base STS kit running around your price range and you install yourself

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Their pipe that runs along the frame rails hangs pretty low. I'm afraid it might scrape on my lowered car. Aside from that, it seems pretty cool. I'll look into it. Don't they have a TX location?

If I spent all my car budget going FI, I won't have any left for a stronger rear end or clutch. I'm pretty sure both would be needed. I figure I can get a new rear for $2K, clutch $1000 and then get top quality headers, and a lopey cam. That might be good enough. Heads might be an option, but would probably be the last thing I add.

I don't want to blow all my cash. I want to get a nice 50-60" flat screen as well.

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

if you dont drag race,therefore you dont really use a big sticky tire,and all you want it highway speed then you dont really need a rearend.

quicksilverado

iTrader: (8)

Give Billy at trtturbo a call. He is a sponser and will give you some good advice and treat you right.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

I run 315 GS D3's and I don't dump the clutch any higher than 2000rpm. I don't really dump it at all. I almost always roll the car to get started then dip into the throttle. Not exactly drag race techniques, but that is what I do all the time at red lighs, stop signs, etc... Still, I already broke the stock rearend. I found another stocker with 3.73 gears, so I figure it's only a matter of time before this one will break. Even sooner if I bump up the HP. So I figure replacing it with a stouter one is just a smart move.

You guys still think I might get away with a FI setup for only $5K or so?
I'll give Billy a call.

ty_ty13

iTrader: (42)

if your an auto X or road racer than a STS kit is not for you... to many throttle stabs to make good use of it....

for what you do a good size cam and nitrous would be ideal and a set of nice heads would be awesome...

nitrous is only activated when you flip the power switch and your WOT switch is activated. nitrous is a good friend to a street racer.

i would get heads before i got nitrous because like you said it "can" run out but a real nitrous user always has atleast 2 bottles with him. a 125 or 100 shot will last a good while on the street.

Coy

iTrader: (4)

Skip FI, do a good set of heads with a cam to match the heads, and use the rest of the money for the fuel system, clutch, and incidentals.

DesertFox

iTrader: (2)

If you arent opposed to pulling the motor try going with an 383, you don't have to touch the bore sleeves, and you can make about 450-500 rwhp with that combo. Plus it will make more than enough torque to pass anything in almost any gear. It should be gentlier on the rear than most power adders, though I think todo it right would probably run about 7g's on the low side.

Check this out

He goes through several setups in testing this motor, pay attention to the 1st two they are the most streetable. But Tony also just took out a forged 347 that was making close to 500 hp, I think it was about 475ish. That would be a cheaper alternative b/c you wouldn't necessarily need to run all forged at power level. which would save you about 1000-1500, but please do supporting mods first, like headers, fuel system etc.. before you try to make big power, both of those mods will only make whatever you do later that much more successful.

Josh