Boosted 346 build
#1
Boosted 346 build
Alright guys, from the info I have gathered through searching this forum and stuff I gained in my last thread I have compiled this parts list along with some questions about them. I posted this same thread in the internal section so I could get some feedback from the guys who know engine building but aren't concerned enough with boost to check out this forum. Anyways, look it over and shoot me some advice.
1.Used LS1 shortblock rebuilt, balanced and blueprinted
2.Forged Diamond pistons w/ total seal rings w/ a chrome topped ring (what should the -cc be if I am aiming for a compression ratio or 8:1? Should I ditch the Diamond pistons and up the coin and go with W2W's Mahle turbo piston?)
3.Callies compstar rods w/ ARP rod bolts (6.125 length, right?)
4.SLP timing chain and ported LS6 oil pump (a double roller chain is not necessary is it?)
5.Lucas 60# injectors w/ 2 Walbro 255 pumps w/ a FPR and larger fuel rail (For my FPR will a Kinser K-140 45-81 PSI be enough or should I go to 66-108 PSI? Will an Aeromotive 5/8'' ID fuel rail be large enough or should I just stick with Kinser and run their lines? There is a Kinser Univeral EFI fuel system with everything I need but it only supports 800hp FI and I don't want to be held back by something that was so costly.)
6.Ported LQ9 6.0l heads (will the stock valves be fine or should I go up to a 2.02/1.57 or even 2.08/1.60 size?)
7.Patriot dual springs w/ the full spring kit
8.Hardened pushrods (size depends on my cam selection)
There are a couple other parts that I need some opinions on as well:
-Will OE replacement lifters be safe or do I need to go with Lunati or Morel?
-Should I run with Callies billet main caps or am I fine w/out them?
-How about APR main studs?
-Will I be fine running the stock oiling system with the LS6 pump and LS6 PCV system? If not, what do you all recommend?
-I will keep my PCM stock for now. If I up the boost I may go with something different but I am by no means a tuner so I'll leave that to the pro's.
I believe that is it for now. I will most likely be staying with stock cubes unless one of you can talk me out of it. I'm not sure whether or not I will run a single or twin setup yet; I want to get the engine built first. Once I get to the point where I need to make a cam decision I will decide what setup/size I will run. I will most likely be going through TurboZone as John seems like an upstanding and very helpful guy. Please feel free to shoot any advice this way as I am new to building FI engines. I appreciate it guys!
1.Used LS1 shortblock rebuilt, balanced and blueprinted
2.Forged Diamond pistons w/ total seal rings w/ a chrome topped ring (what should the -cc be if I am aiming for a compression ratio or 8:1? Should I ditch the Diamond pistons and up the coin and go with W2W's Mahle turbo piston?)
3.Callies compstar rods w/ ARP rod bolts (6.125 length, right?)
4.SLP timing chain and ported LS6 oil pump (a double roller chain is not necessary is it?)
5.Lucas 60# injectors w/ 2 Walbro 255 pumps w/ a FPR and larger fuel rail (For my FPR will a Kinser K-140 45-81 PSI be enough or should I go to 66-108 PSI? Will an Aeromotive 5/8'' ID fuel rail be large enough or should I just stick with Kinser and run their lines? There is a Kinser Univeral EFI fuel system with everything I need but it only supports 800hp FI and I don't want to be held back by something that was so costly.)
6.Ported LQ9 6.0l heads (will the stock valves be fine or should I go up to a 2.02/1.57 or even 2.08/1.60 size?)
7.Patriot dual springs w/ the full spring kit
8.Hardened pushrods (size depends on my cam selection)
There are a couple other parts that I need some opinions on as well:
-Will OE replacement lifters be safe or do I need to go with Lunati or Morel?
-Should I run with Callies billet main caps or am I fine w/out them?
-How about APR main studs?
-Will I be fine running the stock oiling system with the LS6 pump and LS6 PCV system? If not, what do you all recommend?
-I will keep my PCM stock for now. If I up the boost I may go with something different but I am by no means a tuner so I'll leave that to the pro's.
I believe that is it for now. I will most likely be staying with stock cubes unless one of you can talk me out of it. I'm not sure whether or not I will run a single or twin setup yet; I want to get the engine built first. Once I get to the point where I need to make a cam decision I will decide what setup/size I will run. I will most likely be going through TurboZone as John seems like an upstanding and very helpful guy. Please feel free to shoot any advice this way as I am new to building FI engines. I appreciate it guys!
#2
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I have heard some bad things about the total seal piston rings, maybe someone will chime in with personal experience on that..
my recommendation on valve size is stay stock size UNLESS you plan on spending extra money to have enlarged seat put in and can open the hole underneath the valve or else you are simply putting a bigger lid on the same size hole and creating more of a shroud for air to get around and into the cylinder.
Chris
my recommendation on valve size is stay stock size UNLESS you plan on spending extra money to have enlarged seat put in and can open the hole underneath the valve or else you are simply putting a bigger lid on the same size hole and creating more of a shroud for air to get around and into the cylinder.
Chris
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what is your hp goal?
8:1 compression is pretty low unless you plan on pushing 20+ psi thru your motor. I think you should step it up to 9-9.3:1 this way you'll pickup some more torque.
AFR 225 heads those come with the bigger valves. Definitely put those patriot gold dual valve springs or crane's.
don't think you'll need a fpr capable of more psi than 80, most people run at 60-62 psi max. Not familiar with the Kinser products.
I'd recommend getting a shortblock from Wheel to Wheel, they have made plenty of high hp capable engines up there and they're priced right and you'll know its built right.
stock lifters should be fine.
go with hardened pushrods, its cheap insurance.
go with ARP everything
ls6 pump with pcv should be fine.
Callies rods with the Mahle pistons is a good combo, the Diamonds are fine.
8:1 compression is pretty low unless you plan on pushing 20+ psi thru your motor. I think you should step it up to 9-9.3:1 this way you'll pickup some more torque.
AFR 225 heads those come with the bigger valves. Definitely put those patriot gold dual valve springs or crane's.
don't think you'll need a fpr capable of more psi than 80, most people run at 60-62 psi max. Not familiar with the Kinser products.
I'd recommend getting a shortblock from Wheel to Wheel, they have made plenty of high hp capable engines up there and they're priced right and you'll know its built right.
stock lifters should be fine.
go with hardened pushrods, its cheap insurance.
go with ARP everything
ls6 pump with pcv should be fine.
Callies rods with the Mahle pistons is a good combo, the Diamonds are fine.
#4
LS1Tech Co-Founder
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My 348ci:
1. New LS6 block, bored
2. Diamond forged pistons, ~8.2:1
3. Eagle 6.126 rods
4. Rollmaster dual chain timing chain.
5. Was 83 lb Siemens.
6.Ported 6.0 heads with Manley SD .100 longer valves, not stock size
7. Comp 977's right now, was Crane 832's
8. Aftermarket pushrods
0. Comp OEM style lifters
10. Stock main caps
11. Stock crank
12. ARP main studs
13. A1 head studs
14. Ported and polished OEM oil pump
14. GM MLS 6.0 head gaskets
15. Stock LS6 intake
16. Ported OEM TB
1. New LS6 block, bored
2. Diamond forged pistons, ~8.2:1
3. Eagle 6.126 rods
4. Rollmaster dual chain timing chain.
5. Was 83 lb Siemens.
6.Ported 6.0 heads with Manley SD .100 longer valves, not stock size
7. Comp 977's right now, was Crane 832's
8. Aftermarket pushrods
0. Comp OEM style lifters
10. Stock main caps
11. Stock crank
12. ARP main studs
13. A1 head studs
14. Ported and polished OEM oil pump
14. GM MLS 6.0 head gaskets
15. Stock LS6 intake
16. Ported OEM TB
#5
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Originally Posted by Pro Stock John
My 348ci:
1. New LS6 block, bored
2. Diamond forged pistons, ~8.2:1
3. Eagle 6.126 rods
4. Rollmaster dual chain timing chain.
5. Was 83 lb Siemens.
6.Ported 6.0 heads with Manley SD .100 longer valves, not stock size
7. Comp 977's right now, was Crane 832's
8. Aftermarket pushrods
0. Comp OEM style lifters
10. Stock main caps
11. Stock crank
12. ARP main studs
13. A1 head studs
14. Ported and polished OEM oil pump
14. GM MLS 6.0 head gaskets
15. Stock LS6 intake
16. Ported OEM TB
1. New LS6 block, bored
2. Diamond forged pistons, ~8.2:1
3. Eagle 6.126 rods
4. Rollmaster dual chain timing chain.
5. Was 83 lb Siemens.
6.Ported 6.0 heads with Manley SD .100 longer valves, not stock size
7. Comp 977's right now, was Crane 832's
8. Aftermarket pushrods
0. Comp OEM style lifters
10. Stock main caps
11. Stock crank
12. ARP main studs
13. A1 head studs
14. Ported and polished OEM oil pump
14. GM MLS 6.0 head gaskets
15. Stock LS6 intake
16. Ported OEM TB
#7
LS1Tech Co-Founder
iTrader: (34)
-CAS sheetmetal gas tank
-(2) Bosch 420L external pumps
-10 to the front
-8 crossover
-6 return
-Weldon regulator
-Base fuel pressure 45psi
-Hit 21.5 psi at one time (754rwhp unlocked t400)
I'm going to:
-96 lb injectors for now
-new turbocharger setup, blower is sold and is getting shipped out in a couple of weeks
-(2) Bosch 420L external pumps
-10 to the front
-8 crossover
-6 return
-Weldon regulator
-Base fuel pressure 45psi
-Hit 21.5 psi at one time (754rwhp unlocked t400)
I'm going to:
-96 lb injectors for now
-new turbocharger setup, blower is sold and is getting shipped out in a couple of weeks
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#8
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Originally Posted by SVT THIS
2.Forged Diamond pistons w/ total seal rings w/ a chrome topped ring (what should the -cc be if I am aiming for a compression ratio or 8:1? Should I ditch the Diamond pistons and up the coin and go with W2W's Mahle turbo piston?)
...
#9
I think I may just buy a built shortblock from W2W, TSP or some other sponsor. With the parts and buying/rebuilding a used LS1 shortblock it is getting close (if not more) than buying an assembled shortblock. I know W2W has produced excellent motors, what about TSP?