bowtieman81

iTrader: (35)

Well, I did some test driving past couple days. I am learning some interesting things.

First, doing a burnout in this thing is harder than when it was n/a, have to learn again I guess

Second, I miss the instant throttle response of my n/a setup. Don't get me wrong, the turbo is awesome but it does fell kind of "lazy".

Third, the wastegate is a sensitive little sucker when adjusting max boost. Takes very little to increase/decrease boost a lot. Now I have the boost right about 7.5 psi.

Finally, I started messing with the tune a little. My a/f at WOT is still very rich at 11:1, so I did some timing adjustments. The slightly increased timing helped reduce the lazy feel the car has.

Also, my engine does not like more than 14 degrees timing at peak torque (4400 rpm) during WOT. Currently I am running a stock 02 Z06 timing table from 0-2400 rpm, then above that and under boost I am running 14-17 degrees, witht the lowest timing being at peak torque.

cablebandit

iTrader: (37)

keep it a tick rich to account for the leaner back cylinders

SSilverSSurfer

iTrader: (8)

are you still on stock motor? i bet it pulls up top better than the N/a

NOSjohn

iTrader: (9)

As cable stated, you want to keep it a tad rich and around 11.5:1 would be ideal in your case.

bowtieman81

iTrader: (35)

11.5:1 is a good WOT air/fuel then? I have seen guys set it anywhere between 10.5:1 up to 12:1. I am not interested in buying a new engine this year, so 11.5:1 is about as lean as I want to go.

Let me ask this, should I set the a/f first, then adjust timing or vice versa?

silversurfer, it does pull harder up top. I am just getting used to this turbo having come from a n/a with nitrous setup.

NOSjohn

iTrader: (9)

How much boost are you running - 7.5psi?

bowtieman81

iTrader: (35)

Yep, right now 7 psi.

I think I could make more power by running 9-10 psi and keeping the timing low, but the car would be a dog until the turbo came alive.

NOSjohn

iTrader: (9)

I would start with taking out about 5 degrees after 2500-2800 rpm. Every car varies slightly. About 1 degree for every 1 lb. of boost, then as you get into more boost 2 degree for every 1 lb. of boost. This is a rough guideline. Again, car to car it may vary and depends on the total combo.

Zombie

iTrader: (2)

rich is good, 11.0 is what I aim for. Difference in power from 11.0 to 11.5 is less than 10hp on a dynojet. If you are worried about breaking stuff then more margin for error is where it's at

FWIW I ran 11 degrees timing at peak tq and ramped up to 16 by 6400 on my stock motor on 91 octane and 10psi (daily driving boost when I had my stock motor)

bowtieman81

iTrader: (35)

Your ran 10psi on a totally stock engine (10:1 compression)? What kind of power did that get you? How long did it last?

A DEE O

iTrader: (2)

You should consider running some 6.0l heads, to lower your comp. Then more boost less worries.

Zombie

iTrader: (2)

10-11 was my low boost running off the wastegate spring. On 100 octane I was running 15-16 (the highest I could get it due to having headers). Motor lasted about 15k miles and finally succomed to rod bolt stretch causing rod knock (slight tick). Pistons looked great (except the 3 where I floated the valves, comp 918s were not strong enough). Had I kept my rpms below 6500 i'd be a lot safer.

I have two friends with stock shortblocks (6.0 heads though) pushing 15psi regularly. Power doesn't usually hurt the motor, detonation does.

Billiumss

iTrader: (11)

How are you tuning it? MAF or SD mode?

I might have a few more questions for you...

Bill

bowtieman81

iTrader: (35)

A DEE O, I did my setup this way on purpose. I wanted to get into a turbo setup to see how I liked it. If I stay turboed I will be building up a good forged engine in a year or so.

Zombie, thanks for the info. It is good to know. Did you dyno your car at all? Valve float should not hurt me, my rev limit is 6500 and I have manley dual springs. My engine is pretty sensitive on timing around torque peak. It really does not want any more than 13.5 degrees.

Bill, I am tuning with the MAF at the moment. Plan to keep it that way until I max it out, which should not happed at my power levels.

I did some more playing with it last night. Added some timing (1-2 degrees) at various places, except torque peak. It livened up the car pretty good, and it seemed to pick up some power on my seat of the pants meter.

Billiumss

iTrader: (11)

- How are you tuning?
- WB Brand O2?
- What Software, HPT?
- Did you tune the VE table at all in OLSD and then go back to the MAF?
- What lb/min and Hz are you seeing with your MAF at max RPM?

bowtieman81

iTrader: (35)

-I am doing all street driving to tune the car. I have never dyno tuned my car.
-I use an innovate lc-1, but it has been gone being fixed
-at the moment I just did the VE adjusting based on LTFT; since I have a near stock cam the VE table is not very far off. I plan to do an OLSD tune as soon as my lc-1 comes back. Once the VE is in line I will see if/how far the MAF is off.
-Going purely off memory, I believe I have seen about 48 lb/min so far, but keep in mind I have not done any WOT runs to redline yet. My lc-1 is supposed to be back this week, so hopefully later I can give you some better info

Billiumss

iTrader: (11)

- Have you logged your MAF HZ, if not you should, that will show you how close you are to maxing out the MAF
- What are your LTrims during cruising around at a steady RPM, how "close" are they to each other? I ask this because of where the stock O2s get plugged into the system
- Are you using HP Tuners, if so care to share a few logs?

You would be surprised how far off a Stock VE table really is, especially for your application.

Bill

bowtieman81

iTrader: (35)

I have logged maf hz, but can't recall what it was right now (all my tuning stuff is at home on my laptop). You can convert lb/min into hz, but I don't remeber that equation right now either. My pass side O2 is located in the crossover about 1" downstream from the stock manifold. My drivers O2 is in the downpipe, about 14" from the turbine. I welded in a WB bung a couple inches past that.

My LTFT are running from 0-7, not ideal but not too bad. Keep in mind this is not a totally stock VE table, it is a hybrid. I took a stock 02 Z06 table and tweaked it some. My heads have a very mild port job on them (probably only worth 10 hp or so).

I have no problem sharing some files. I can give you some of my .bin files and also some scanning logs. It will have to wait until i get home though.

Zombie

iTrader: (2)

Don't get too caught up in getting LTFTs exact, it's not worth the time and effort.

Mine are around -12 at idle and -5 at cruise. With only one fuel pump on the idle goes around -7. My tune changes depending on how much oil is on the maf so I have to pull it and clean it when I see my a/f starting to lean out. I just did it a few weeks ago so I'll see how often I have to do it. I need a better drain setup on my turbo.

bowtieman81

iTrader: (35)

Ya, I am not real worried about having the VE table dead on like a n/a tune. A little extra fuel added won't hurt anything.

My main worry is detonation. I am going to tune it for 7 psi right now with 0 detonation. Maybe later I will try 10 psi and see what that does.

Thanks for the help zombie