solobaric

iTrader: (5)

My car is a daily driver. Not sure if I should go with mild steel or stainless for my turbo setup. The mild would be coated if I went that route. Don't really know the advantages or disadvantages to either one.

TransAm6383

iTrader: (1)

i went with coated mild steel.

DrTurbo

iTrader: (3)

Mild steel with coating is all you need.

DSG

iTrader: (1)

How much of a cost difference is there with after the mild steel is coated?

NemeSS

iTrader: (127)

never have had a prob. with mild coated mild steel, have built many
kits and also coated. its easy to coat ur own parts and pretty cheap

TwinSpin

I have had coated mild, they were durable, but did eventually flake coating and corrosion into the turbos and through the system. I prefer stainless, but I also be sure the welds are correct in style, and there is appropriate support fo any weight, such as a turbo. There are more thermal benifits to stainless over raw mild, but also more expansion. Many people prefer mild, but I bet some of those people prefer mild due to ease of working with as well as cost. Theres a case for both sides. I just choose Stainless ... no coating, no chipping and I imagine resale is better due to visual condition down the road.

FUroundeye

iTrader: (6)

I'm w/ TwinSpin. My biggest concern w/ coated mild is the flaking off of the coating inside the pipe, and it then going through the turbos. Plus, I'd never wrap mild b/c it would hasten the degradation of the pipe. I plan on supporting the turbos anyway, so wrapped stainless is my choice.

NXRICKY

iTrader: (1)

I like the stainless, it does not cost me that much more the mild, and I do not have to coat. If you go to resale the stainless can be brighten up real quickly with a little polishing.

Twinspin, man you are so right, that stuff can move around a bunch during welding. And if you didnot know it, a perfect gap fit, just became a gapping hole.

Ricky

TchargedLS1TA

iTrader: (9)

Stainless will end up being lighter after you coat the mild. Problem with stainless is you better know how to weld it good you you will be cracking it alot. Stainless is alot more ductile than mild, meaning it has less flex. Especially in a street car, that will be important. Stainless looks better IMO, but unless your doing nothing but racing, stick with mild

Jammer

iTrader: (1)

Stainless is low in thermal conductivity (GOOD!), but thay have a high coefficient of thermal expansion (not so good).
Mild does nothing the "best" but does everything fairly well. Its cheap, easy to weld, readily available in many sizes.... but its not corrosion resistant (BAD), and while coating are good... thay are not "perminant".

I'd like to take a moment to adres tubular vs. Logs. Hi-Flo went over the deep end in exclaiming how tubular is soooo much better...but never discussed how heat transfer is directly proportional to surfacfe area. Sooo... the exposed surfaces of the manifold should be kept at a minimum...sooo, wrap them you say...well, ok, but that'll likely cause material failure due to intense heat. Key: Less surface = less heat loss. The less ambient air around the manifold, the leass "coolong" will occur. I would begin to argue that a properly designed , stepped log with SMOOTH transitions may be at least a very good one. Before spending big money on tubular ex manifolds, take a serious look at the cast truck "somewhat log style" manifolds.. as I think cast is the best choice. Too bad it costs so much to form and make.
If some sponser wants to make a splash and be the "be all, end all" design a cast manifold to perfection for f-bodies. One which allows room for large downpipes, smooth flow, and easy plug changes.


Crap, Im dreaming again.

NOSjohn

iTrader: (9)

Oooooh and you mean keep A/C as well....hahaa.

The truck manifolds do a great job...just no A/C.

Yes, mild steel is good for a daily driver and heat cycling. However, if prepped correctly and welded correctly stainless will last and not crack. Stainless is a little more for material and strictly user preference.