Procharger guys with Alky injection
#1
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Procharger guys with Alky injection
I recently got an Alky control kit. I am having trouble determining where to mount my nozzle though. I have the P-1SC kit with the standard twin intercoolers and piping. Nothing special at all. My problem with mounting it after the maf is all I have is silicone tubing going from my maf ends to throttle body. I am starting to entertain the idea of mounting it to the intake like where the EGR pipe would usually go. I have a non-EGR LS6 intake so there is a space that I could try to plumb it into. I just want some more ideas before I starting drilling holes. If anyone else has any ideas or pics of their set-up it would be much appreciated. Thanks!
I attached a pic of what my intake track of tubing looks like.
I attached a pic of what my intake track of tubing looks like.
#2
We found the best place to mount the nozzle is into the throttle body. We tried mounting it before the throttle body, but when the throttle shut when on the dyno, the alky mix immediately fried the maf. Not wanting to ruin two maf's experimenting, we drilled and tapped the throttle body. Bob
#5
I have a SLP mass air flow bellow befor and after my 85mm Zo6 MAF.
this is how i sandwhiched my D1-sc procharger twin intercooler set up.
It fits perfect, nice and neat,
I installed my Alkk control nozzle in the foward SLP bellow, the one that mounts my 85mm MAF to the throttle body.
The Alky Control methanol injection system only sprays under boost , this means that the methanol will be forced in to the throttle body it will NOT spray toward the MAF,
if some happened to still trickel, it would sit at the bottom of the SLP bellow, because of its shape its like a pouch,
until the throttle blade opened again.
my seems to work fine
by the way where in the t-body are others taping and installing the nozzle,
befor the throttle blade or after?
this is how i sandwhiched my D1-sc procharger twin intercooler set up.
It fits perfect, nice and neat,
I installed my Alkk control nozzle in the foward SLP bellow, the one that mounts my 85mm MAF to the throttle body.
The Alky Control methanol injection system only sprays under boost , this means that the methanol will be forced in to the throttle body it will NOT spray toward the MAF,
if some happened to still trickel, it would sit at the bottom of the SLP bellow, because of its shape its like a pouch,
until the throttle blade opened again.
my seems to work fine
by the way where in the t-body are others taping and installing the nozzle,
befor the throttle blade or after?
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#9
no leaks here, yes the threads are short, i didnt use the washer , no need for it , i just made the hole small and screwed it in, it is very tight and i used liquid lock tight on the threds so the nut does not back out ,
it cam out perfect, i will try to get some pictures,
Get 2 SLP MAF bellows , and a 85MM SLP or ZO6 mass air sensor, every thing fits together nice,
Also concider the Procharger metal intake box, my plastic one was balloning like a lung, i am suprised they sell a expensive kit with this, It is junk.
IF you buy a SLP 85mm mass air sensor, remove the resister , its was causing tuning porblems,
SLP installes this resister so the 405 HP 85mm ZO6 Mass air sensor will work on a 350HP LS1 motor.
with the resister in place the car had a bad stumble off idel.
hope this helps.
it cam out perfect, i will try to get some pictures,
Get 2 SLP MAF bellows , and a 85MM SLP or ZO6 mass air sensor, every thing fits together nice,
Also concider the Procharger metal intake box, my plastic one was balloning like a lung, i am suprised they sell a expensive kit with this, It is junk.
IF you buy a SLP 85mm mass air sensor, remove the resister , its was causing tuning porblems,
SLP installes this resister so the 405 HP 85mm ZO6 Mass air sensor will work on a 350HP LS1 motor.
with the resister in place the car had a bad stumble off idel.
hope this helps.
#10
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Originally Posted by Lawnboy
no leaks here, yes the threads are short, i didnt use the washer , no need for it , i just made the hole small and screwed it in, it is very tight and i used liquid lock tight on the threds so the nut does not back out ,
it cam out perfect, i will try to get some pictures,
Get 2 SLP MAF bellows , and a 85MM SLP or ZO6 mass air sensor, every thing fits together nice,
Also concider the Procharger metal intake box, my plastic one was balloning like a lung, i am suprised they sell a expensive kit with this, It is junk.
IF you buy a SLP 85mm mass air sensor, remove the resister , its was causing tuning porblems,
SLP installes this resister so the 405 HP 85mm ZO6 Mass air sensor will work on a 350HP LS1 motor.
with the resister in place the car had a bad stumble off idel.
hope this helps.
it cam out perfect, i will try to get some pictures,
Get 2 SLP MAF bellows , and a 85MM SLP or ZO6 mass air sensor, every thing fits together nice,
Also concider the Procharger metal intake box, my plastic one was balloning like a lung, i am suprised they sell a expensive kit with this, It is junk.
IF you buy a SLP 85mm mass air sensor, remove the resister , its was causing tuning porblems,
SLP installes this resister so the 405 HP 85mm ZO6 Mass air sensor will work on a 350HP LS1 motor.
with the resister in place the car had a bad stumble off idel.
hope this helps.
#19
The IAT sensor is for reading inlet air temp, no need to spray methanol at it
Tune using the methanol For a 11.2 - 11.5 A/F
i am at 18 degs, now , but i was making too much boost for my stock 01 LS1 SS motor
I was seeing 10 PSI at 5,300 - 5,500 RPM ,
with a D1-sc and a 4.25 pully,
I just installed a 4.5 pully, now i am seeing around 7 PSI at 5,500 RPM,
My car goes back on the dyno to be retuned for 6,200-6,400 RPM
depending on what boost i will get now,
i realy dont want to make more than 10 PSI , cause of the motor being stock,
I made 533HP and 505 TQ at 5,500 RPM at 9-10 PSI to the wheels 2 weeks ago.
I had a few gals mix of 110 cam 2 in the tank too, so i we could tune it without worries,
Car made good power , for just a stock LS1 with a acufab LS1 throttle body and a set of FLP long tube headers, Y-Pipe and no cats, Stock SS SLP duel duel cat back exhaust.
And the D1-sc Procharger twin intercooled system
I have a staged twin racetronix fuel pump in the tank, with motron #60 pound injectors,
and of course the Alky control methanol injection system,
I will post pictures of my set up soon
Tune using the methanol For a 11.2 - 11.5 A/F
i am at 18 degs, now , but i was making too much boost for my stock 01 LS1 SS motor
I was seeing 10 PSI at 5,300 - 5,500 RPM ,
with a D1-sc and a 4.25 pully,
I just installed a 4.5 pully, now i am seeing around 7 PSI at 5,500 RPM,
My car goes back on the dyno to be retuned for 6,200-6,400 RPM
depending on what boost i will get now,
i realy dont want to make more than 10 PSI , cause of the motor being stock,
I made 533HP and 505 TQ at 5,500 RPM at 9-10 PSI to the wheels 2 weeks ago.
I had a few gals mix of 110 cam 2 in the tank too, so i we could tune it without worries,
Car made good power , for just a stock LS1 with a acufab LS1 throttle body and a set of FLP long tube headers, Y-Pipe and no cats, Stock SS SLP duel duel cat back exhaust.
And the D1-sc Procharger twin intercooled system
I have a staged twin racetronix fuel pump in the tank, with motron #60 pound injectors,
and of course the Alky control methanol injection system,
I will post pictures of my set up soon
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ok, we are just thinking a bit differently I guess. My point in moving the IAT sensor behind the alky jet is that, If the pump were to fail/ you forgot to check your alky level etc.. That the IAT would read the increase in temperature. You could set your tune so that if IAT temperatures hit a set ceiling the computer would start pulling timing for that given situation, very potentially saving your engine and you from having to spend a buttload of cash. Just a safety system within the alky system basically.