Inconclusive dyno results on Procharged 402
10-29-2006, 12:28 AM
#1
Inconclusive dyno results on Procharged 402 - Now with dyno sheet Edit: Posted dyno sheet on page 2
Setup is a D1SC on a 402. 3.4 blower pulley and 7.4 crank pulley. The highest the boost got was about 15.7psi. Got it dynoed at one shop on Thursday that has a portable Mustang dyno. They thought the converter was bad because it was stalling at almost 6,000 rpm's, and then the rpm's were dropping from there. Got a dyno graph that showed a peak of 425 torque and 471 horsepower. It seemed like the converter was shot.
Today I took it to my friends shop to pull the converter out and send it back to ATI, when my buddys friend that has MD-1750 at his shop told me to bring it by and we can put it his dyno and see what its doing.
We only got one run in because the blower belt got shreded, but it dynoed 716.5 torque at 3750 rpm's, and 569.1 horsepower at 5,000 rpms. It was reved up to 6500 rpm's. We aren't sure at what point the belt got shreded, but the boost stayed at a constant 15.7 until 6000 rpms, then it dropped a little bit. The horsepower is prety flat from 5,000 to 6,000 rpm's, but it seems a bit low to me. The wideband flew off as soon he went WOT, so I dont know what the A/F is at. What do you guys think of these results? I would scan the dyno sheets, but I dont have access to a scanner at the moment. How could the torque be so much higher than the horsepower? I am thinking with the 3.4 pulley the IAT's are getting too hot. I have a Alky Controll setup on the car, but haven't used it yet. I think that should bring the IAT's down a bit. The tires never spinned on the dyno.
Setup is a D1SC on a 402. 3.4 blower pulley and 7.4 crank pulley. The highest the boost got was about 15.7psi. Got it dynoed at one shop on Thursday that has a portable Mustang dyno. They thought the converter was bad because it was stalling at almost 6,000 rpm's, and then the rpm's were dropping from there. Got a dyno graph that showed a peak of 425 torque and 471 horsepower. It seemed like the converter was shot.
Today I took it to my friends shop to pull the converter out and send it back to ATI, when my buddys friend that has MD-1750 at his shop told me to bring it by and we can put it his dyno and see what its doing.
We only got one run in because the blower belt got shreded, but it dynoed 716.5 torque at 3750 rpm's, and 569.1 horsepower at 5,000 rpms. It was reved up to 6500 rpm's. We aren't sure at what point the belt got shreded, but the boost stayed at a constant 15.7 until 6000 rpms, then it dropped a little bit. The horsepower is prety flat from 5,000 to 6,000 rpm's, but it seems a bit low to me. The wideband flew off as soon he went WOT, so I dont know what the A/F is at. What do you guys think of these results? I would scan the dyno sheets, but I dont have access to a scanner at the moment. How could the torque be so much higher than the horsepower? I am thinking with the 3.4 pulley the IAT's are getting too hot. I have a Alky Controll setup on the car, but haven't used it yet. I think that should bring the IAT's down a bit. The tires never spinned on the dyno.
Last edited by Jimmy P; 12-02-2006 at 08:46 PM.
10-29-2006, 04:49 AM
#2
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Use that alky.... Do u still have the stock hat and filter? Take that off on the dyno and see how much u pick up. Mine picked up 2psi and 80rwhp 110rwtq. Now im switching to EPP FMIC setup with their 4" 90 degree elbow along with 11" filter.
By the way... Whats your heads/cam combo?
By the way... Whats your heads/cam combo?
10-29-2006, 05:45 AM
#3
I agree, if you have the twin intercoolers, the inlet air temps are probably getting high.
Spark knock might of been present, retarding timing. The alky kit will greatly help.
Since the blower belt shredded, you most likely have an alignment problem that needs to be corrected. You could also of been having belt slippage prior to the belt slipping, which would keep boost down.
The torque was up because of the converter multiplication. It is sometimes tough to get accurate numbers with high stall converters in these cars.
We never put the wide band in the tailpipe, as it is not accurate enough. Any unwelded exhaust joints will suck air in under wide open throttle, throwing off the true reading. It is better to weld a bung into the exhaust system. Bob
Spark knock might of been present, retarding timing. The alky kit will greatly help.
Since the blower belt shredded, you most likely have an alignment problem that needs to be corrected. You could also of been having belt slippage prior to the belt slipping, which would keep boost down.
The torque was up because of the converter multiplication. It is sometimes tough to get accurate numbers with high stall converters in these cars.
We never put the wide band in the tailpipe, as it is not accurate enough. Any unwelded exhaust joints will suck air in under wide open throttle, throwing off the true reading. It is better to weld a bung into the exhaust system. Bob
10-29-2006, 09:34 AM
#4
Its hard to get decent dyno results with a high stall non lockup converter. I was running 9s with 540rwhp on a dynojet with a TH400/ati converter.
put your own wideband in there or do what Bob said and put a bung in for the dyno wideband.
You are spinning the blower up there pretty good and I'm surprised you are seeing that much boost. HP between dyno pulls can vary greatly as well, if I make 2 back to back pulls I'll lose 100rwhp. Wait 20 minutes and it comes right back when everything cools back down.
FWIW I see 15.5psi @ 7000rpm with a 346 @ 7000rpm with a 7.25/3.7
put your own wideband in there or do what Bob said and put a bung in for the dyno wideband.
You are spinning the blower up there pretty good and I'm surprised you are seeing that much boost. HP between dyno pulls can vary greatly as well, if I make 2 back to back pulls I'll lose 100rwhp. Wait 20 minutes and it comes right back when everything cools back down.
FWIW I see 15.5psi @ 7000rpm with a 346 @ 7000rpm with a 7.25/3.7
Last edited by kp; 10-29-2006 at 09:40 AM.
10-29-2006, 11:14 AM
#5
The inlet hat has been changed to a 4" one that was fabbed up for me very well by Moparnos.
It does have a 4" core front mout intercooler. Now that I think about it, that shop only has a small fan that was blowing in the intercooler, most shops have a huge fan that blows air everywhere. The coolant temps probably got prety high as barely any air was getting towards the radiator.
Its a custom EDC cam, 228/236 on a 115, I think lift was .603 or so. Stock truck heads.
So I should have a bung welded into one of the headers and put the wideband on there, right?
thanks
Oh ya, the converter is a ATI 9". Stall is about 3200, but was told in my setup it should flash to about 3800-4000, and yesterday seems to be at right about 3800. I am thinking of sending it back to ATI to have it tightened up about 800 rpm's.
It does have a 4" core front mout intercooler. Now that I think about it, that shop only has a small fan that was blowing in the intercooler, most shops have a huge fan that blows air everywhere. The coolant temps probably got prety high as barely any air was getting towards the radiator.
Its a custom EDC cam, 228/236 on a 115, I think lift was .603 or so. Stock truck heads.
So I should have a bung welded into one of the headers and put the wideband on there, right?
thanks
Oh ya, the converter is a ATI 9". Stall is about 3200, but was told in my setup it should flash to about 3800-4000, and yesterday seems to be at right about 3800. I am thinking of sending it back to ATI to have it tightened up about 800 rpm's.
Last edited by Jimmy P; 10-29-2006 at 12:06 PM.
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10-29-2006, 06:02 PM
#8
Originally Posted by Jimmy P
I dont realy want a dyno queen..But I just figure it would of still been making power till atleast 6,000 rpm's, not at 5,000 rpm's.
Whats your top speed on that thing KP. Mine seems to top out at about 128mph with the 3.73 gears.
Whats your top speed on that thing KP. Mine seems to top out at about 128mph with the 3.73 gears.
10-29-2006, 09:03 PM
#9
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If you are looking for sweet dyno numbers put a T56 in there, because you will always be 50-100rwhp down from where a T56 will be with the same combo.
It's pretty late in the season to make passes unless we get a warm day. I'd make sure the belt is not slipping.
It's pretty late in the season to make passes unless we get a warm day. I'd make sure the belt is not slipping.
11-01-2006, 11:35 PM
#10
Installed a new belt today, and fired it up. We looked at the pulleys at idle to make sure the belt was properly aligned, and the harmonic balancer was wobbling alot. There wasn't a crank bolt in there holding it, it was just dancing off the crank. On the way to the dyno shop, I was getting on it a little bit and I could feel a slight vibration, but I didn't think much of it. I guess thats when the bolt must of fell off, and eventually causing the belt to shred later on the dyno. Hopefully it didn't cause damage getting it dynoed without the harmonic balancer properly on it.
11-02-2006, 08:03 AM
#13
Originally Posted by kp
Is your balancer pinned? If not thats the first thing you need to do. It was most likely slipping on the crank at higher RPM, hopefuly you didnt tear anything up.
11-02-2006, 07:41 PM
#15
I got a call from my buddy who was there when your car was on the dyno, wanted to tell me what brand fans you had on the front of your radiator since i'm looking for a more clean setup than the stock crap i have rigged to the front of mine right now.
I asked the same thing when he said your belt shredded..8 rib or 6 rib setup? He actually thought you had a cog setup on the car, that right?
I only lost a belt once with my 8 rib this year, right at the starting line at the track. turned out the plastic idler pulley on the blower bracket came loose and moved up and let the belt tension off and it slipped off and broke. so you dynoed with NO crank bolt in there? that's probably why you lost the belt, that pulley walking around
you have to pin that crank properly asap, you can do some pretty nasty **** to the crank snout otherwise.
I asked the same thing when he said your belt shredded..8 rib or 6 rib setup? He actually thought you had a cog setup on the car, that right?
I only lost a belt once with my 8 rib this year, right at the starting line at the track. turned out the plastic idler pulley on the blower bracket came loose and moved up and let the belt tension off and it slipped off and broke. so you dynoed with NO crank bolt in there? that's probably why you lost the belt, that pulley walking around
you have to pin that crank properly asap, you can do some pretty nasty **** to the crank snout otherwise.
11-02-2006, 07:47 PM
#16
The fans are Spall's, I am not sure on the size. I can measure the fan and let you know by tommorow if you want. I have one the front and one of the back on opposite sides, only way they would fit with the BECool radiator.
Its got the SDCE 8 rib setup.
Ya, there was no crank bolt in there during the dyno. We didn't realize that until after the belt got shreded. The crank will be pinned tommorow.
Its got the SDCE 8 rib setup.
Ya, there was no crank bolt in there during the dyno. We didn't realize that until after the belt got shreded. The crank will be pinned tommorow.