Looking for guys who make 900+rwhp with turbo: block opinions
11-19-2006, 08:33 PM
#2
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While its possible on the aluminum block, if you want ultimate reliability at this power level , a iron block is usualy reccomended. Some have made 1k on the stock crank, usualy people go with a stroker either a 383 or 408 from either eagle or callies.
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11-20-2006, 02:31 PM
#8
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95% of the big boys will reccomend iron blocks for that power goal Phil. I think Mike Brown might be the only holdout to go LS2. I'm on the fence, but I have not put that many passes on my shortblock yet.
11-20-2006, 04:48 PM
#9
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i have an MID block but you can also get a dry sleeve ls2 block, and while some builders dont like to use them non have given me any examples of any (RED) comming apart. the most is a little pushing which from my understanding on 99% of them that had that problem it was fixed with a little copper coating and retq of the heads, not to mention higher hp fi engines do that a little.
Talk to Steve at RED his blocks are hold tons of HP and TQ and oh yeah he is a sponsor so maybe he will chime in, if he sees the thread.
Talk to Steve at RED his blocks are hold tons of HP and TQ and oh yeah he is a sponsor so maybe he will chime in, if he sees the thread.
11-20-2006, 10:28 PM
#12
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Dunno how much power I made but it was on a stock ls1 block.
If I were doing it again, I'd get the GMPP block and be done with it...big bore short stroke and add boost. Drysump though! lol Unless of course that block has a better oiling setup to use the factory style pumps.
If I were doing it again, I'd get the GMPP block and be done with it...big bore short stroke and add boost. Drysump though! lol Unless of course that block has a better oiling setup to use the factory style pumps.
11-21-2006, 06:15 AM
#16
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We're going aluminum in the race car. Somebody needs to really push the aluminum so we'll all know where the limit is. We should be light with an LS2 and a glide. If your really worried you could look at the Warhawk block.
11-21-2006, 08:50 AM
#18
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I've made 867rwhp with a 2001 LS6 block that is bored 3.910.
If I were doing up another shortie, I'd be doing an LS2 + forged crank to follow the path trailblazed by Mike Brown and Steve Turley. Mike has been flogging an LS2 down into the 8.4's.
The issue that is discussed by engine builders is called 'creep' or for us layman, block expansion. The bores can get distorted due to major boost and heat, and they don't go back to their original shape. I wonder what Mike's response would be to this issue. And the other issue is that iron blocks won't expand or distort when it comes to the deck surfaces either.
If I were doing up another shortie, I'd be doing an LS2 + forged crank to follow the path trailblazed by Mike Brown and Steve Turley. Mike has been flogging an LS2 down into the 8.4's.
The issue that is discussed by engine builders is called 'creep' or for us layman, block expansion. The bores can get distorted due to major boost and heat, and they don't go back to their original shape. I wonder what Mike's response would be to this issue. And the other issue is that iron blocks won't expand or distort when it comes to the deck surfaces either.
11-21-2006, 11:55 AM
#20
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This question is tough to answer, its interesting to read the reply's so far. I have some LS2 info gathered from a engine we just took apart that had been raced hard and maintained well through its life. The pics attached(I hope they are attached!) will show you some cylinder and block damage that seems to be the norm when dealing with the aluminum block. The deck cracks also show up on high hp iron blocks eventually, but we have not been able to disect enough engines to be hard and fast about facts. This paticular block is cracked in 7 places and was performing fine.
The cylinder shot shows the "smoky" look of the walls. I believe this is caused by the wall flexing under load, not staying round. This would cause some blow-by and lost power, this is worse in aluminum blocks we see.
You will also notice the lack of a defined stop point for the top ring, it should be 360 degree's around the bores top edge, but it changes pattern near the head bolts showing that the block is flexing from the head bolt load.
At 1200+ flywheel hp I would still use iron block, but the aftermarket blocks may change that. Who is going to be the first to push one to find the limit????
Kurt
The cylinder shot shows the "smoky" look of the walls. I believe this is caused by the wall flexing under load, not staying round. This would cause some blow-by and lost power, this is worse in aluminum blocks we see.
You will also notice the lack of a defined stop point for the top ring, it should be 360 degree's around the bores top edge, but it changes pattern near the head bolts showing that the block is flexing from the head bolt load.
At 1200+ flywheel hp I would still use iron block, but the aftermarket blocks may change that. Who is going to be the first to push one to find the limit????
Kurt