Thinking about a F1 procharger
#1
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: bridgwater, nj
Posts: 1,527
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thinking about a F1 procharger
I am still debating on whether to go FI or not. If I do - it will be procharger, if I don't - it will just be some H/C & intake. (that's for another post)
Let's assume I go FI.
My thoughts are that when I go to build a shortblock, I would go with a 408. I'd go with the iron for the addition strength and the fact that the knock sensors will work and electronincs are the same. The price difference over a 347 or 370 doesn't bother me nor does the addition weight. However I have read that some have had cooling issues.
With this in mind, i've read the D1 would be maxing out on the 400+ motors, so i would rather buy the F1 now and slow roll it on my 346 for a while. That way i have the setup to go bigger later.
My motor only has about 25K on it and i would like to run it for a while. Could be two years before I even think about a new engine, but I don't want to spend money twice on the head unit. I'd be happy making around 500-550 or so for now but it would be nice to have the path forward to make 650-750 without maxing out the blower. I realize that I would need the biggest pulleys and have to short shift while on the 346 but I only I hit the track a handful of times per year so this is really a street car.
The big question I have is, would their be any benefit in planning for bigger cubes and running the F1 blower if my power goal is really only set to be in the mid 700s?(for now anyway)
Any problems/comments with my progress path?
What's the longevity of the prochargers? How long do they last assuming proper maintance and care?
Are they a pain? Constant tuning? Belt slip?
Thanks
Let's assume I go FI.
My thoughts are that when I go to build a shortblock, I would go with a 408. I'd go with the iron for the addition strength and the fact that the knock sensors will work and electronincs are the same. The price difference over a 347 or 370 doesn't bother me nor does the addition weight. However I have read that some have had cooling issues.
With this in mind, i've read the D1 would be maxing out on the 400+ motors, so i would rather buy the F1 now and slow roll it on my 346 for a while. That way i have the setup to go bigger later.
My motor only has about 25K on it and i would like to run it for a while. Could be two years before I even think about a new engine, but I don't want to spend money twice on the head unit. I'd be happy making around 500-550 or so for now but it would be nice to have the path forward to make 650-750 without maxing out the blower. I realize that I would need the biggest pulleys and have to short shift while on the 346 but I only I hit the track a handful of times per year so this is really a street car.
The big question I have is, would their be any benefit in planning for bigger cubes and running the F1 blower if my power goal is really only set to be in the mid 700s?(for now anyway)
Any problems/comments with my progress path?
What's the longevity of the prochargers? How long do they last assuming proper maintance and care?
Are they a pain? Constant tuning? Belt slip?
Thanks
#2
TECH Addict
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: VA
Posts: 2,320
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If you want to go with a 370-408 in the future i would start with a F1-A. The F1-A has the same housing as an F1, but it has 125 more CFM. That is around 50rwhp more when you push both blowers to their limits. On a stock engine start with a 4.4-4.5 pulley on the F1-A.
Buy the kit from Bob at EPP because he can sell you the F1-A and FMIC as an upgrade without paying too much later on to switch the stock intercoolers and D-1SC blower. You will love EPP customer service and speed.
Good luck.
Buy the kit from Bob at EPP because he can sell you the F1-A and FMIC as an upgrade without paying too much later on to switch the stock intercoolers and D-1SC blower. You will love EPP customer service and speed.
Good luck.
#3
Originally Posted by LSs1Power
If you want to go with a 370-408 in the future i would start with a F1-A. The F1-A has the same housing as an F1, but it has 125 more CFM. That is around 50rwhp more when you push both blowers to their limits. On a stock engine start with a 4.4-4.5 pulley on the F1-A.
Buy the kit from Bob at EPP because he can sell you the F1-A and FMIC as an upgrade without paying too much later on to switch the stock intercoolers and D-1SC blower. You will love EPP customer service and speed.
Good luck.
Buy the kit from Bob at EPP because he can sell you the F1-A and FMIC as an upgrade without paying too much later on to switch the stock intercoolers and D-1SC blower. You will love EPP customer service and speed.
Good luck.
#4
7 Second Club
iTrader: (42)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: paducah, ky
Posts: 4,558
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
just a hint.... a iron block is missing one of the bolt holes needed to mount a procharger.... use a 402 aluminum block....
im using a 408 with only 2 bolts.... i dont really like it... but it gets it done...
im using a 408 with only 2 bolts.... i dont really like it... but it gets it done...
#5
8 Second Club
iTrader: (18)
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Waterloo, Ontario
Posts: 2,609
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
How about this for an idea-I'm expecting to make around 750-800 rwhp with a 364 and a D1. Just don't run compression low like in a turbo. If your starting from scratch then just jump to the F1A-just give Bob a call and he'll point you in the right direction!
#6
TECH Addict
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: VA
Posts: 2,320
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by ty_ty13
just a hint.... a iron block is missing one of the bolt holes needed to mount a procharger.... use a 402 aluminum block....
im using a 408 with only 2 bolts.... i dont really like it... but it gets it done...
im using a 408 with only 2 bolts.... i dont really like it... but it gets it done...
I asked about that.... You can tap in the block as deep as the bolt go and you will be fine. Just be careful when doing it.
#7
7 Second Club
iTrader: (42)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: paducah, ky
Posts: 4,558
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by LSs1Power
I asked about that.... You can tap in the block as deep as the bolt go and you will be fine. Just be careful when doing it.
i wouldnt do it... but thats just me..
Trending Topics
#8
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (9)
Don't forget...if you go F1/F1a route, you'll probably have to move the front radiator support to get everything to fit (with an airfilter). If you don't care about ac, then you can yank it and have alot more rm to work with. If you need ac, then it gets alot trickier.
#11
TECH Addict
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: VA
Posts: 2,320
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by ty_ty13
do you have an iron block? im not too sure i wanna try... it doesnt look meaty at all.... theres not even a flat blank piece of metal there to tap....
i wouldnt do it... but thats just me..
i wouldnt do it... but thats just me..
#12
7 Second Club
iTrader: (42)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: paducah, ky
Posts: 4,558
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by LSs1Power
I asked Bob at EPP and he told me that... Im sure Bob at EPP tried it plenty of times with no problem. He told me to tap and not go any deeper than the bolt it self. I will have to do it because Im running an F1-C at 20psi or so. I will need all the braces I can get lol.
#13
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: bridgwater, nj
Posts: 1,527
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
thanks for the replies guys. i did talk to bob in the past and if i went this route i will go through him at epp. (Hey bob, don't know if you remeber but im the guy who works for ITT in NJ)
Appreciate the tip on the iron block. i did not realize this. glad i asked.
I will need to keep AC. I've heard the ATI inlet hat is restrictive so I will want to run the one EPP offeres. How far do you need to push the other stuff forward? Do I need to cut any braces to move stuff. Would I have enough room for the front mount?
Also, could I run the F1A with the 4.5 intercoolers? Don't know if I want to do the front mount yet.
What the max boost I would see with the biggest pulley? How do I figure that out assuming my stock heads?
Thanks
Appreciate the tip on the iron block. i did not realize this. glad i asked.
I will need to keep AC. I've heard the ATI inlet hat is restrictive so I will want to run the one EPP offeres. How far do you need to push the other stuff forward? Do I need to cut any braces to move stuff. Would I have enough room for the front mount?
Also, could I run the F1A with the 4.5 intercoolers? Don't know if I want to do the front mount yet.
What the max boost I would see with the biggest pulley? How do I figure that out assuming my stock heads?
Thanks
#14
TECH Addict
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: VA
Posts: 2,320
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by BLASTER
thanks for the replies guys. i did talk to bob in the past and if i went this route i will go through him at epp. (Hey bob, don't know if you remeber but im the guy who works for ITT in NJ)
Appreciate the tip on the iron block. i did not realize this. glad i asked.
I will need to keep AC. I've heard the ATI inlet hat is restrictive so I will want to run the one EPP offeres. How far do you need to push the other stuff forward? Do I need to cut any braces to move stuff. Would I have enough room for the front mount?
Also, could I run the F1A with the 4.5 intercoolers? Don't know if I want to do the front mount yet.
What the max boost I would see with the biggest pulley? How do I figure that out assuming my stock heads?
Thanks
Appreciate the tip on the iron block. i did not realize this. glad i asked.
I will need to keep AC. I've heard the ATI inlet hat is restrictive so I will want to run the one EPP offeres. How far do you need to push the other stuff forward? Do I need to cut any braces to move stuff. Would I have enough room for the front mount?
Also, could I run the F1A with the 4.5 intercoolers? Don't know if I want to do the front mount yet.
What the max boost I would see with the biggest pulley? How do I figure that out assuming my stock heads?
Thanks
I think a 4.5 pulley should show around 7-8psi from a F1-A. I took the 3.5" twin intercoolers to 600rwhp with a 70 F increase over ambient. So i think the 4.5" should be fine to at least that much HP.
#15
Originally Posted by 98turbls1
Which hole is missing??
As far as the head unit....I went with an F1C
It may not last as its cross linked....too lazy to post the whole thing over here again....
http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/showthread.php?t=88194
#16
Originally Posted by b727pic
I installed an iron block into my 2004 GTO, I am sure its a different setup than yours but you can get an idea of the bolt hole situation on this thread:
As far as the head unit....I went with an F1C
It may not last as its cross linked....too lazy to post the whole thing over here again....
http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/showthread.php?t=88194
As far as the head unit....I went with an F1C
It may not last as its cross linked....too lazy to post the whole thing over here again....
http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/showthread.php?t=88194
#17
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: bridgwater, nj
Posts: 1,527
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by LSs1Power
If you want to rune the Elbow EPP sells and F1-A you will need to get rid of the A/C. The hat is restrictive over 600rwhp from what I have seen. KP didnt gain anything with or without the hat at the track.
I think a 4.5 pulley should show around 7-8psi from a F1-A. I took the 3.5" twin intercoolers to 600rwhp with a 70 F increase over ambient. So i think the 4.5" should be fine to at least that much HP.
I think a 4.5 pulley should show around 7-8psi from a F1-A. I took the 3.5" twin intercoolers to 600rwhp with a 70 F increase over ambient. So i think the 4.5" should be fine to at least that much HP.
#18
TECH Addict
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: VA
Posts: 2,320
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by BLASTER
Why is that, if the F1-A is the same size housing as teh D1?
#20
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: bridgwater, nj
Posts: 1,527
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by LSs1Power
The F1-A is the same size as the F1, not the D-1SC. We are working on a custom radiator and condensor setup now that could allow us the use of A/C with the F1-C and EPP elbow. I will have results within two weeks or so.