Gains from stroking with a turbo car
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Gains from stroking with a turbo car
Say you had an stock LS1 346ci (we'll keep forged parts out of the equation), with full intake and exhaust, a 224/227 cam, and a single turbo at 7psi. Assuming said set-up made 500rwhp, how much power would be made by stoking it to 383ci with a 4in crankshaft?
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Originally Posted by kars10_4
Say you had an stock LS1 346ci (we'll keep forged parts out of the equation), with full intake and exhaust, a 224/227 cam, and a single turbo at 7psi. Assuming said set-up made 500rwhp, how much power would be made by stoking it to 383ci with a 4in crankshaft?
you'd be able to make the same HP w/ less boost.
so you'd make 500HP w/ 4psi. so now, bump it back up to 7psi and you'll make more.
there's no "real" equation for psi=X amount of HP b/c it all depends on the how restrictive or free flowing the intake system or exhaust system is on any given setup. from my understanding
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So it would just create a more streetable torque curve, capable of supporting more boost. I forgot to mention assuming high flowing-low compression heads.
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Originally Posted by mahhddgtp
But, the question is... Will you run into backpressure problems with that dinky turbo?
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Ok then, the extra displacement will basically allow you to create more power... Either you can play it safe run a lower boost level than you would on the boosted 346, while making about the same numbers (more torque downlow).... Or, you could upgrade to a bigger turbo and make wayyy more power than you did on the 346 with the same boost... That extra displacement allows for you to spool something bigger...
A nice, safe combination for the street is big cubes with low boost... That way you can have low boost, still make some pretty crazy power, and not risk running into any detonation.
A nice, safe combination for the street is big cubes with low boost... That way you can have low boost, still make some pretty crazy power, and not risk running into any detonation.
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I agree with most on here. With my turbo, I started out at 383 cid, then went down to 363, then back up to 388. I like my 388 the best because it makes power at a lower (safer) boost level and is much more responsive off-boost. My 60' time dropped substantially because I don't leave under boost.
Mike
Mike
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Thanks for the help guys. I've just been trying to figure out my plan for my LS1 instead of studying for my thermodynamics final tommorow . It'll be a long process since I'm in university right now and lack money/time. But I'll probably go full intake and exhaust and that 224/227 cam. Then everything probably needs to be forged before a turbo goes on. So I figured while getting forged internals, I might as well stroke it too, since most stroking kits come with forged pistons, rods, ect... Anyway thanks for the input, don't expect updates anytime soon , it's a 5 year plan although I would like to get headers and a FAST 90/90 setup this summer.
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That's another problem, because I want headers for now. And since I won't be getting a turbo for a few years, I figure I could get enough enjoyment out of them in the mean time.
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You could always go with a rear-mount setup ya know... They got bashed at first, but they're putting down some good times and numbers... I don't think I would get one, but maybe an option for you...
With the rear-mount you can use your existing headers.
With the rear-mount you can use your existing headers.
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Originally Posted by Got Me SOM
you wont have to spin the motor as high too to make the power. as you know rpm=ruin's people's motors. don't let anyone tell ya any different.
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Originally Posted by mahhddgtp
I don't think I'd want to rev above 6,500rpm for my street application, once I get it built.
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The only thing I don't like about the rear-mount kit is that you lose the dual exhaust tip look. And the fact that the air intake doesn't seem very sheltered. Has anyone on here done an STS kit with dual exhaust tips?