I made this because it seems like a lot of people have trouble installing the gauges and/or vacuum lines as it can be tricky for some parts of it. Hopefully this will help out others so they don’t have to search and ask so many questions like I did, and still do. For the gauge wiring, most go with an “A” pillar mounted gauge pod and install the gauges there. If so you will have to remove your factory “A” pillar and drill a small hole (usually ¼ to ½ “) to run the wires from the gauges.
As far as power sources the fuse box on the side of the dash on the driver side is a great place. With the factory “A” pillar removed you can feed the wire down to the fuse box. You can then either use the correct connectors(spade connector) to stick in an empty slot or wrap the bare wire around the fuse itself and push back into the slot with some effort. You’re going to want to use only the slots that are power on ignition only so as not to kill your battery.Most wiring diagrams will ask for an "ignition switch 12V". Such fuses are acc, radio, radio acc and so on. That should be all the power you need.
You will also need good grounding sources as well. I’ve found that a self tapping screw in front of where the shifter is in 6 speed cars works nicely, or just look around for any screw going into metal and you have a decent grounding source.
As far as running wires into the engine bay from the cabin….DO NOT try to feed then through the door and fender as it can be pinched and exposed and cause big problems. If you cant find a hole already in the firewall then underneath the dash on the driver side on the upper left there is a plastic panel that you can drill through then through the firewall, if you put it in the correct spot it will end up next to the brake booster which is great for hiding wires and makes it easy to run then as they’ll be right under the driver side to run to the gauges. If you make it big enough you can run your fatter wires that connect to things such things as the sensor for the boost gauge or wires that connect to the boost controller, etc.
For widebands it’s easiest, at least for 6 speeds to come up through the shift boot in the floor. The 2 panels under the dash on the driver side will be your best friend to hide wires. It’s easiest to take both panels off, do all the wiring you need to do, and then zip tie all the wires compactly together and reinstall the 2 panels with the wires hidden behind them. If you have switches, the ashtray is a great place to hide them….a 2 port switch will have 1 wire coming from whatever you’re going to want to give power to and the other port will go to a power source. If it’s a 3 port switch you have a ground added.
Now for vacuum lines, most people get their reference’s or sources from the intake manifold or the brake booster hose leading to the back of the intake manifold.
Some people just try to follow the instructions and run vacuum lines to the port on their turbo. If you don’t have an intercooler than it won’t matter much, for those with intercoolers this will impact performance as you wouldn’t be accounting for the drop in pressure across the intercooler. So if you reference your boost gauge to the turbo and the wastegate after the intercooler than you will be boosting less than what your boost gauges says. Try to be consistent. Most people reference their boost gauge at the intake manifold after the throttle body because that it what the motor will be seeing.
Normal Blow off valves have 1 port on them. Reference them after the throttle body, it will normally perform better and will definitely sound more like a turbo car. The wastegate can be a big PITA to run correctly depending on what you have and what you’re trying to do. For a normal 2 port external wastegates see this reference. http://www.tialsport.com/documents/w..._wginstall.pdf
Usually, the top port will be vented to atmosphere, which it’s usually recommended that you just run a short vacuum hose to nothing to try to keep the port from getting clogged. And the side port is referenced before the throttle body.
If you have a boost controller, it gets a lot more tricky. For electronic boost controllers, there are so many different ones to choose from and how they are installed can be different. My experience was with the Eboost2. Click here and go to the boost controller section and click on eboost 2.Go to pages 4-7 to see how it can be connected as an example. http://www.turbosmart.com.au/index.php?s=downloads
If you have a manual boost controller, it usually will work 1 of 2 ways. Usually the top port is referenced to the intake before the TB and the side port will go to the boost controller. If it’s a 2 stage controller then the side port will go to a T which will go to the controller and to the vacuum source after the TB. The other way, which you will have to test to see which way works, is the top port goes to atmosphere and the side port T’s with the controller and the manifold. Well that’s all I can think of for right now, hope that helps some people out.Hopefully this will help others getting started so they dont have to go through what myself and others have been with so many questions.It should help clean up the interior and the engine bay.