00WHITETA

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Not sure if any of yall would know but here it is. Im installing the sts turbo right now. When I bought the kit he told me it came off a lt1 car and I have a ls1 car(he said and also STS told me it would convert fine!). So when it comes to wiring it up I found out there is these 2 BROWN wires that I don't see in my harness! Do any of you know exactly what the two brown wires do? I know they go to the 1 p.s.i. switch but that's all I know, where they come from is a mystery. Also there is a green wire and a white wire that have been cut any idea what they go to? I know there is a **** pit buzzer that I don't have! But, have no idea what color the wire is for it! If you have any idea let me know, plz help!

Thanks
Jimmy

navymitch12

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if i remember correctly the green and white wire go to the buzzer...and the brown wires go 1psi switch and 1 should go to the pcv switch and the other has something to do with the oil pump switching to high

00WHITETA

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Ok... I think your right about the 1 brown wire that comes from the 1 p.s.i. switch it does go to the oil pump. I was talking to the guy I bought it from and that's what he said! So 1 goes to the pump and I guess the other one goes to the vavle thing that's by the thermostat. That sound correct? but this is also the thing I have 2 blue wires that are in the harness right now 1 comes from the black box thing(can't think of what it is called!!!) and the 1 p.s.i. switch and the other was cut off! I was gonna try and splice into that cut off wire hook it to the 1 p.s.i. switch! You think that will work?

Jammer

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Locate fuel pump 12v supply wire in factory computer harness. (For 98 models, this is a dark green wire with a white tracer that comes out of the "Blue C2" computer connector at terminal #37. For 99-02 models, this is a dark green wire with a white tracer that comes out of the "Red C2" computer connector at terminal #9). Install the red T-Tap connector into the appropriate fuel pump relay supply wire. (Note: Using a test light – this wire should be hot when engine is running and will only be hot for about 2 seconds when ignition is on without the engine running, then it will shut off unless engine is started.) Use a jumper wire to apply 12v to the single blue wire to run electric oil pump for 2-3 minutes then connect blue wire to T-Tap connector and carefully reinstall the computer. (Note: Install any gauges or accessories that require wires through the firewall before reinstalling the computer.)

Route the single Brown wire along valve cover and secure to the terminal on the PCV switch valve . Connect remaining loomed 2-wire section of harness to the pressure switch and splice the hose section into factory vacuum line coming from the intake manifold to the vacuum check valve...if your using it.
I didnt. I just capped the wire and left it.

Install the rear wiring harness connector onto the oil pump.. The Yellow wire goes to terminal at outlet of pump. This terminal is marked (-) on top of pump. Connect black wire to terminal at inlet side of pump. This terminal is marked (+) on top of pump. Make sure that the terminal connectors are tight on the pump terminals. If connectors don’t fit tight, compress the terminal connectors slightly with pliers, being careful not to damage the connectors. (Note: This oil pump motor is reversible). Mount oil pump to body using 4- #10 x 1" self-tapping screws. (IMPORTANT: Do not over tighten screws and damage rubber grommets.) Connect the two-wire harness to the pressure switch on the oil pump inlet with one wire on each terminal and install the rubber cover. Secure the single wire ground strap to frame rail using star washer and #10 self-tapping screw. (Note: Recommend cleaning frame to expose bare metal before installing ground strap and then painting once installed.)

Jammer

iTrader: (1)

TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE

Oil pump alarm sounds

• Check to see if oil pump is working
• If pump is working, check oil pump electrical connections to see they aren’t reversed
• If pump is not working, check inline fuse in main harness and electrical harness connections
• Check relays to make sure they are plugged in properly
• Check inline voltage resistor for voltage on each side of resistor

Oil pump is noisy

• Oil pump will be slightly noisy upon startup and when cold but should get quieter as system warms and as pump wears in
• Jumping pressure switch electrical connectors on charge air tube should run pump at high speed
• If pump always runs at high speed, check pressure switch continuity, secondary relay continuity, and harness for shorts.
• Check to see if oil pump or housing are rubbing on frame and that rubber insulators are in good shape

Turbo won’t boost, produces low boost, or has excessive spool time

• Check intake tubing for any leaks at tubes or hose connections
• Check exhaust system for any leaks
• Check wastegate to see that valve isn’t stuck open
• Spool up time will decrease as the turbocharger breaks in and should improve over first few days of driving
• Check condition of air filter or pre-charger filter cover

Detonation

• Check for lean condition, O2 readings should be above .900 volts at WOT
• Check Octane rating of fuel and use premium fuel only
• Check boost level to see that it isn’t running too much boost
• Check wastegate and hose connections

Squeaking or rattling noise

• Check to see that all mounts and tubing is secure
• Check to see that tubing and hose clamps are not rubbing on any moving parts

Check engine light

• Check all sensor electrical connections

• Pull codes with diagnostic scanner and follow diagnostic flow charts
• If MAF code appears check and clean MAF sensor of any oil residue or contaminants
• If MAF code appears, tube that goes into MAF sensor can be adjusted closer or further away from sensor to tune MAF readings higher or lower (94-97 only)
• Trouble code may reset on it’s own with time as computer relearns and recognizes higher sensor readings as normal values
• Clear out code and let computer relearn new values and see if code reoccurs

Gas smell and fuel tank pressurization

• Check to see that fuel tank Evap solenoid hoses were switched top to bottom or that a check valve was installed properly

Excessive engine blow by or smoking

• Check condition of gaskets and seals and look for oil leaks
• Check condition of PCV valve. A bad valve will let boost into crank case
• Check to see that PCV vent hose was removed and breather vent placed in valve cover
• Check cylinder compression to verify engine is in good condition
• Check oil pump operation and for any flow restrictions

Burning smell

• Check to see that all wiring harnesses and hoses are routed properly and away from hot exhaust
• Check to see that external resistor in main wiring harness is routed away from harness and other low-heat parts
• Check to see that there are no shorts in electrical wiring harness

Check oil pump operation and for any flow restrictions

Jammer

iTrader: (1)

Now send over the GF for some oral please.

00WHITETA

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I have that wire narrowed down! The guy had labeled the wires when he took them off the car! That was alot of help! Im just stuck on the 1 p.s.i. switch and the valve thing. The instructions say hook to brown wires up to the 1 p.s.i. switch but I don't have them but I have 2 extra blue wires Im hoping that is them. But both of them start with one wire and than splice of to 2 wires! 1 blue wire was already hooked up the 1 p.s.i. switch and it goes from the switch to the relay!!!(lol that is the black box thing I was referring too!)

Jammer

iTrader: (1)

You can just cut.cap the wire and run it at one speed . Ill look for a pic to help ya though. I have a pic, but in the wrong format...trying to make it postable.. but no luck. No idea where blue wires came from. Perhaps an LT1 thing only... or homemade portion of the harness?

00WHITETA

iTrader: (1)

How did you get around the vacumm check thing? Just didn't even hook it up? Because that was also another problem I ran into but if I don't need it than I aint gonna hook it up! So that would mean I don't have to look for that 1 brown wire that goes to it! Also does your pump run on High or low? because I was told that brown wire that hooked to that 1 p.s.i. switch it what kicked the pump into high mode once it hits a certain boost level!

Jammer

iTrader: (1)

My recollection was the brown wire was used to communicate to the pump via pressure switch and relay to increase the pump speed under boost. I just ran mine on full... in fact ..LOL, I had 2 run full speed all the time. So, yes, I didnt use that portion of the kit, as per STS's suggestion )to me...Im sure they wont make that suggestion in public or on paper!) They are a great company though.

00WHITETA

iTrader: (1)

Well the main blue wire comes from the realy that after it goes through the loom alittle it splits to 2 blue wires. and 1 of them was hook up to the 1 p.s.i. switch and the other one was cut. and in the book it says hook 2 red's on 1 side and 2 browns on the other side. It was hooked up 1 blue and 1 red on one side and 1 red on the other side. So I hooked both red on one side and the blue on the other!

00WHITETA

iTrader: (1)

send the pic to r_crick@hotmail.com


Also so if I don't hook up the check valve it will run on high? Or did you have to do something to make it run on high?

Jammer

iTrader: (1)

some sent
should help you greatly

00WHITETA

iTrader: (1)

Still trying to figure out a way to open couldn't find the cd number for micrsoft office

Jammer

iTrader: (1)

Thats the issue...do you have office 97? If so, use 1690-1456410

00WHITETA

iTrader: (1)

Alright I figured it out so they are saying that a blue wire is a brown wire!!! I wonder why because in that pic the wire is clearly blue! So it was hooked up the right way originally so I didn't even need to really mess with it. I got myself worked up over nothing!!! But, anyways you say you didn't hook up the pressure switch thing. Did you have to do anything to the pump to get it to run high mode all the time or did it just do it? Also, THANK YOU I really apreciate it!!!!!!!

Jimmy

Jammer

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I "think" but cant remember..that I connected two of the wires....In fact I know I did.... which ttwo? both red ones??? Thats what I recall...are there two red on the switch?

00WHITETA

iTrader: (1)

Yes, i will look into that tommorrow. Thank you for your help. Which region are you in so I know who to talk to if I have to call someone at sts again because he seemed to help you alot more than the guy that I called today he was pretty much clueless to what I was telling him which that might be because he wasn't looking at it like I was!

p.s. Now I know I can talk to you if they can't help me!!!!

Jimmy

Jammer

iTrader: (1)

Rick did me some favors.. and put me in contact with good people and information. If you dont get the answers you want..hang up, call back...just like anything else in life. I do that with Nextel, Macys, Summit etc. It usually works. Change your calling location too...Once from NY, Once from Cali...etc. Perservience will always get you the win.

00WHITETA

iTrader: (1)

Well I think I got it figured out I finally got the pump to run!(WITHOUT STS HELP BECAUSE THEY WON'T ANSWER THE ******* PHONE!!!!) We will figure out tommarrow hopefully! Maybe I can't get things tied up and start it to make sure I have no oil leaks! You think that would be ok? IM NOT GONNA TRY AND PULL ANY BOOST! Just gonna see if there is any leaking.

Thanks,
Jimmy