wondering what symptoms come with lifting the heads?
01-01-2007, 01:52 AM
#1
wondering what symptoms come with lifting the heads? Update... well yesterday didn't go so well. I went to the track to get my 10sec time slip but unfortunately I think I may have done some damage. about 70ft from the finish I started to feel a power loss but stayed in it to the finish well right at the line I let go a smoke screen of what looked like white smoke. when I got to the turn out the engine died. I didn't get a chance to se if I had oil pressure b4 it died. anyway when I looked under the hood there was coolant everywhere under the passenger side of the engine compartment. I guess my question is how many of you have lifted the heads on your boosted motors, what are the symptoms. how much damage am I looking at? there is no water in the oil. I was peaking 14.5 psi and I don't have head studs. so do you think I'm lucky and just lifted the heads or do you think its worse? I will keep everyone updated as I do the teardown.
Last edited by nvmy2000ss; 01-13-2007 at 06:32 PM.
01-01-2007, 03:55 AM
#5
ya u can put on studs without taking the motor out, but if u ever want to take the heads off again the motor has to come out, unless u unscrew the studs again, which in turn destory the whole idea of putting the studs in once and not taking them out to strip the aluminum block
01-01-2007, 11:07 AM
#7
Originally Posted by 2002/Black/SS
ya u can put on studs without taking the motor out, but if u ever want to take the heads off again the motor has to come out, unless u unscrew the studs again, which in turn destory the whole idea of putting the studs in once and not taking them out to strip the aluminum block
i have studs and they dont have to come out to pull the heads inside the car....though it would not hurt anything if you had to.
odds are you filled up your radiator with exhaust gas and pushed the water into and out of your overflow.
run the engine and if it acts fine once its cooled down then moves water when you make power then you need gaskets, i reccomend the gm mls ones and a stock replacement set of arp studs
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01-01-2007, 12:02 PM
#8
should I pull the plugs first turn it over to make sure theres no water in the cylinder? thanks M/M your making me feel a bit better about this whole ordeal of course I was thinking the worst. I guess I'm not out of the woods yet though.
01-02-2007, 12:34 PM
#10
Pull the plugs and turn the motor over by hand, then turn it over with the starter. You can then throw some new plugs in it and put coolant back in it and drive it around. My guess is you did push water out of the coolant overflow and you will need to replace the gaskets before making power again, but the car will probably drive around and stay cool.
You can look at the surface where the block and the head meet at the bottom of each cylinder and look for black suit. Usually you will see something there if the heads have been lifted. How much power does your car make? Who tuned it? What gaskets? Do you run arp bolts, or stock gm head bolts?
Also, heads will come off of the motor with studs in place, no problem. Removing them will not hurt anything either.
You can look at the surface where the block and the head meet at the bottom of each cylinder and look for black suit. Usually you will see something there if the heads have been lifted. How much power does your car make? Who tuned it? What gaskets? Do you run arp bolts, or stock gm head bolts?
Also, heads will come off of the motor with studs in place, no problem. Removing them will not hurt anything either.
01-02-2007, 12:55 PM
#11
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My heads lifted on the juice and did the same thing you described. engine bay was covered in coolant. both my heads lifted and fried both headgaskets. replaced the graphite gaskets with cometics and everything has been fine since.
01-02-2007, 01:33 PM
#12
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Originally Posted by 2002/Black/SS
ya u can put on studs without taking the motor out, but if u ever want to take the heads off again the motor has to come out, unless u unscrew the studs again, which in turn destory the whole idea of putting the studs in once and not taking them out to strip the aluminum block
01-02-2007, 02:08 PM
#13
i lifted my driver side head over the summer, it diddent spray all over the place, but it was coming out the back corner near the firewall and running down the tranny, you cant retorque stock bolts! you can however do the entire head gasket job with the motor in the car, I found it was easier to put the last couple of back corner head studs in after the heads were on the motor. I switched to the gm mls gasket as was recomended to me by several performance shops. GOOD LUCK!
01-02-2007, 09:11 PM
#14
Originally Posted by black98ws6ta
Pull the plugs and turn the motor over by hand, then turn it over with the starter. You can then throw some new plugs in it and put coolant back in it and drive it around. My guess is you did push water out of the coolant overflow and you will need to replace the gaskets before making power again, but the car will probably drive around and stay cool.
You can look at the surface where the block and the head meet at the bottom of each cylinder and look for black suit. Usually you will see something there if the heads have been lifted. How much power does your car make? Who tuned it? What gaskets? Do you run arp bolts, or stock gm head bolts?
Also, heads will come off of the motor with studs in place, no problem. Removing them will not hurt anything either.
You can look at the surface where the block and the head meet at the bottom of each cylinder and look for black suit. Usually you will see something there if the heads have been lifted. How much power does your car make? Who tuned it? What gaskets? Do you run arp bolts, or stock gm head bolts?
Also, heads will come off of the motor with studs in place, no problem. Removing them will not hurt anything either.
. You can look at the surface where the block and the head meet at the bottom of each cylinder.[/QUOTE]
Not sure if I understand this? Can you elaborate?
Thanks for all the help guys. Just to make sure douse someone have the part numbers for the studs and head gaskets?
Also I will start working on the car next week cause Im taping texturing and painting the garage. so I will let you all know how things are going then.
01-13-2007, 06:48 PM
#17
Update. Well I finally got the car in the garage today and started to wrench on it. Pulled the plugs and found that all the driver side plugs had water on them, so I turned the motor over to get all the water out then did a leak down test.
The results starting with the passenger front, clockwise...
180 psi
180 psi
180 psi
180 psi
10 maybe psi
10 maybe psi
60 psi
60 psi
I am going to try to get the heads off tonight and take pics, but what do you guys think. Is this still showing signs of lifted heads? I thought that once the car cooled off I would have at least some compression.
What should I look for after the heads are removed?
Also if it is just the head gaskets (Im praying that it is) I will be purchasing the cometic MLS head gaskets and head studs.
What is the crush thickness of the stock head gaskets?
What thickness should I buy cometic, to keep the same compression ratio?
Thanks guys.
Brian
The results starting with the passenger front, clockwise...
180 psi
180 psi
180 psi
180 psi
10 maybe psi
10 maybe psi
60 psi
60 psi
I am going to try to get the heads off tonight and take pics, but what do you guys think. Is this still showing signs of lifted heads? I thought that once the car cooled off I would have at least some compression.
What should I look for after the heads are removed?
Also if it is just the head gaskets (Im praying that it is) I will be purchasing the cometic MLS head gaskets and head studs.
What is the crush thickness of the stock head gaskets?
What thickness should I buy cometic, to keep the same compression ratio?
Thanks guys.
Brian
