lt1_fool

I want a very reliable 450-500rwhp I can use whenever I want, 25mpg, and decent driveability. I don't want it to sound like the the pro stock class decided to do some racing in the company parking lot at 7am either. I won't be able to start until May-June (when I get my signing bonus, and start working), but I'm just trying to make sure everything is accounted for so I know how much $$ I'm going to need.

Here's what I'm thinking:

Car:
1998-2000 z28 m6 w/ low miles ($10k)

Engine:
Used STS Turbo @ 5-8psi ($3000)
Comp 918 Valve Springs ($175)
Ford Green Top 42# injectors ($250)
LS6 oil pump ($100)
LS6 Intake (used $250)
Walbro 255lph fuel pump ($175)
Tuning ($300)
Alky/Meth/Water Kit ($300)
Gaskets/misc parts ($200)

Driveline:
Spec Stage 3 Clutch ($400)
T56-Rebuilds Stage 3B build ($1565 + shipping)

Accessories:
Boost gauge ($100)

Total: $16,815

lt1_fool

As for a history, I owned a 95 z28 m6, and did the following mods:

xe224/230 112 cam
ported stock heads
spec stage 3 clutch
150 wet shot
slp headers
hooker catback
3" cutout
k&n cai
msd digital 6+
etc etc

Not exactly new to this...

99Z28LS1

iTrader: (4)

look at my sig and i have just over 500 with only 5.5 psi
and if i fixed my exhaust leak and gained back my 2 psi(making it squeeze 7.5), i would make 560rwhp

lt1_fool

What part of texas are you in? Dallas perhaps?

todd4168

you can probably buy one already built for cheaper.

pwrtrip75

iTrader: (8)

a rear end for sure will be needed.

99Z28LS1

iTrader: (4)

ft worth, texas my friend. just roaming the streets

Frost

iTrader: (45)

If I were you and KNEW you were going STS I'd look for for an A4 over an M6....

lt1_fool

Frost: I'm guessing you say A4 vs M6 because each shift it will have to respool right?

99Z28LS1: Nice, I'm moving there in May. Maybe I'll see ya on the street =)

Frost

iTrader: (45)

That, and the STS setups don't have the load they need in 1st gear with an M6 (3.42 gears!) to make full boost in first, and often times in second as well. The A4 with a stall will make boost early and hold onto it.

oodahss

do you think full boost in first gear is neccesary? i would think it would just spin the **** out of the tires.

Frost

iTrader: (45)

I guess it depends; I want to be fast on the track AND the street. Trap speeds are cool, but it'd be nice to have an ET to go with em.

lt1_fool

So Frost, whats the verdict then on the rear mount kit on the street only. Will it give me safe and reliable power up to 500rwhp? Would a heads/cam/n2o setup be any faster, safer, or more reliable, considering I cut no corners on either setup?

Snyper

iTrader: (27)

I dont think youll need to do the tranny upgrade for that kind of power..

Frost

iTrader: (45)

There is no real answer here, or at least not one, need to read and decide what fits within the boundaries that you have set. I was just trying to point that one thing out.

lt1_fool

Ok, thanks for the insight. So as far as the engine parts list is concerned, does that look about as 'safe' as it can get for 500rwhp on a stock bottom end?

Also, would a heads/cam/n2o going to be 'safer' in terms of snapping a rod, cracking a piston, spinning a bearing, etc etc.

99Z28LS1

iTrader: (4)

IMO, H/C/N20 is ok. but with heads and cam, its always a strong car..... with the turbo, its only strong when boost comes in im still on my stock bottom end and i still have 2psi to go. equals out to about another 35-50RWHP but i didnt want to chance the internals so i left it with the small leak. i might fix the leak and tell them to get 6.5psi

lt1_fool

Well, I guess the parts list I have down is good enough for now, I won't even the car to build on till May. Thanks for everyones input!