Procharger crank pulley coming loose
01-07-2007, 03:54 AM
#1
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Procharger crank pulley coming loose I think that my crank pulley is coming loose, as the car makes strange vibrational noises from time to time when I hit the throttle from a stop, kind of alike a grinding/vibrating noise.
In anycase, hypothetically what symptoms would I be experiencing if I indeed do have a loose crank pulley or rather what would a loose crank pulley sound like/ do?
In anycase, hypothetically what symptoms would I be experiencing if I indeed do have a loose crank pulley or rather what would a loose crank pulley sound like/ do?
01-07-2007, 06:41 AM
#2
That is kinda hard to say, If it is loose, it will wobble all over. In that case you have to remove the bolt and replace it. The stock bolt is a one time use bolt (Torque to yeild), if it is reused the pulley will come off.
Make sure the bolt or new one is at I believe 265 Foot LBS.
Make sure the bolt or new one is at I believe 265 Foot LBS.
01-07-2007, 07:51 AM
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If its coming loose you should pin it and be done.
Crank pulley/balancer 240 ft/lbs to seat it. Remove bolt install new bolt at 37 ft/lbs plus 140 degrees.
I have never been able to get more than 180 ft/lbs but my crank is pinned so I really dont worry about it.
Crank pulley/balancer 240 ft/lbs to seat it. Remove bolt install new bolt at 37 ft/lbs plus 140 degrees.
I have never been able to get more than 180 ft/lbs but my crank is pinned so I really dont worry about it.
01-07-2007, 03:06 PM
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Mine came loose on the dyno. I thought I broke the motor nice puff of smoke came from under the car. Could not figure out what it was until I drove the car home real nice and easy, the tuner and I looked real hard and figured it must have been belt slip. I got home and up on jackstands saw oil on crossmember and there it was loose balancer. Never made any grinding sound even when I drove it home. If it is loose you should be able to turn bolt rather easily. Check to make sure your belt is lined up with the tensioner. Good Luck
01-08-2007, 04:26 AM
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Originally Posted by mikep2002
If its coming loose you should pin it and be done.
Crank pulley/balancer 240 ft/lbs to seat it. Remove bolt install new bolt at 37 ft/lbs plus 140 degrees.
I have never been able to get more than 180 ft/lbs but my crank is pinned so I really dont worry about it.
Crank pulley/balancer 240 ft/lbs to seat it. Remove bolt install new bolt at 37 ft/lbs plus 140 degrees.
I have never been able to get more than 180 ft/lbs but my crank is pinned so I really dont worry about it.
I had to pull the crank and have it keyed. 
I would strongly suggest keying the crank to anyone who is building a S/C motor. Ive had nothing but trouble from the ATI crank pin.
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01-08-2007, 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Dustin 98TA
I pinned mine and it broke the pin. I had to pull the crank and have it keyed.
I would strongly suggest keying the crank to anyone who is building a S/C motor. Ive had nothing but trouble from the ATI crank pin.
I had to pull the crank and have it keyed. I would strongly suggest keying the crank to anyone who is building a S/C motor. Ive had nothing but trouble from the ATI crank pin.
01-08-2007, 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Dustin 98TA
I pinned mine and it broke the pin. I had to pull the crank and have it keyed.
I would strongly suggest keying the crank to anyone who is building a S/C motor. Ive had nothing but trouble from the ATI crank pin.
I had to pull the crank and have it keyed. I would strongly suggest keying the crank to anyone who is building a S/C motor. Ive had nothing but trouble from the ATI crank pin.
01-09-2007, 04:19 AM
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Staging Lane
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Hmm ill have to take a closer look tommorow, maybe the tensioner is not lined up w/ the crank... Anyway, thanks for the help.
Also, at what point in time should the car be in boost? (as in what psi should be yielded when driving at X?)
Also, at what point in time should the car be in boost? (as in what psi should be yielded when driving at X?)
01-09-2007, 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by BIG BAD BLACKSS
Id imagine the pin that goes in horizontally from the front would be much stronger then the one that goes in vertically. Its possible to shear the pin if its in vertically, no way in hell a horizontally placed in pin will shear.
01-09-2007, 06:03 PM
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The ATI pin kit goes in perpendicular to the crank snout (verticle). Normally two pins are installed in that case. The tips of the pins poke up into the 3/16" keyway that broached into the ATI balancer.
The ProCharger kit puts a 1/4" pin parallel to the cranksnout. The drill fixture machines the hole half on the crank and half on the balancer hub. It is usually pretty effective.
The ProCharger kit puts a 1/4" pin parallel to the cranksnout. The drill fixture machines the hole half on the crank and half on the balancer hub. It is usually pretty effective.
04-01-2007, 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by andereck
The ATI pin kit goes in perpendicular to the crank snout (verticle). Normally two pins are installed in that case. The tips of the pins poke up into the 3/16" keyway that broached into the ATI balancer.
The ProCharger kit puts a 1/4" pin parallel to the cranksnout. The drill fixture machines the hole half on the crank and half on the balancer hub. It is usually pretty effective.
The ProCharger kit puts a 1/4" pin parallel to the cranksnout. The drill fixture machines the hole half on the crank and half on the balancer hub. It is usually pretty effective.
ATI Balencer states that you should not drill into it so I wouldn't think you could use the parallel pin kit.
Can you?
04-02-2007, 06:38 AM
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So now I'm confused. There are two ways to pin the crank using an ATI Balancer? I thought there was only one way and that was drilling partially into both the crank and balancer to install the pin "parallel".
