I've been screwed by scrapmetal!
03-10-2007, 12:14 PM
#1
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I've been screwed by scrapmetal! Here's what happened (mods are in the sig for the Z06) : I hit a large piece of scrap metal that someone decided to leave in the middle of the highway and this pierced my radiator. I pulled over and as soon as I noticed fluid pouring out, shut down the engine and had the car towed. The radiator and other pieces got fixed but apparently the coolant wasn't coming up to the fill line with the expected volume. The shop did some special "smoke test" to look for a leak but didn't find one. Fluid was poured back in, still didn't fill, but the engine was started anyway. Long story short, there was somehow a leak into the #8 cylinder and the rod shot through the starter. Apparently the head managed to crack and allowed the coolant to leak into the cylinder. I was told it probably cracked due to heat as coolant would have been lost up top first as it leaked out and just the heat of being at operating temp at the time would have been enough to do this. Any thoughts on this?
So, I now need a new block. Fortunately my insurance is paying but their allowed price is 1-2Gs lower than what the shop thinks it will need. Insurance is paying for a new '04 LS6 block. My shop is telling me that an LS1 block may be a better bet (?stronger) and would be cheaper. An LS2 block would also be an option but I'm not sure about the $ for this.
I'm planning on keeping the supercharger and would likely swap my cam into the new engine.
My dilemma is this: what would be the best block (for the money) that will hold up with the supercharger? Also, I am considering sticking with the stock heads that come with the block as my previous setup (I think) was actually too powerful. Planting power to the ground in the lower gears was futile even with DRs. This car will primarily serve as a road track/autocross car so ridiculous power may actually be self-defeating (feel free to convince me otherwise) and I would like to stick with aluminum. Anybody run the A&A procharger kit (or know of HP #) with stock LS1, LS6 /LS2 heads?
All suggestions will be considered!
So, I now need a new block. Fortunately my insurance is paying but their allowed price is 1-2Gs lower than what the shop thinks it will need. Insurance is paying for a new '04 LS6 block. My shop is telling me that an LS1 block may be a better bet (?stronger) and would be cheaper. An LS2 block would also be an option but I'm not sure about the $ for this.
I'm planning on keeping the supercharger and would likely swap my cam into the new engine.
My dilemma is this: what would be the best block (for the money) that will hold up with the supercharger? Also, I am considering sticking with the stock heads that come with the block as my previous setup (I think) was actually too powerful. Planting power to the ground in the lower gears was futile even with DRs. This car will primarily serve as a road track/autocross car so ridiculous power may actually be self-defeating (feel free to convince me otherwise) and I would like to stick with aluminum. Anybody run the A&A procharger kit (or know of HP #) with stock LS1, LS6 /LS2 heads?
All suggestions will be considered!
03-11-2007, 03:07 PM
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I'm using an LS6 block and forged internals. I'm shooting for 800rwhp. My buddies 99' vette makes 746rwhp with an LS6 block and A&A D1SC at 14psi with no problems for 2 years now. You can get a new 04' LS6 block from Texas speed for like $600..The other option is spending $1200 on an LS2 block and building a forged 402 
But for the $$$ go with the LS6 block and add forged rods and pistons with your stock crank..
But for the $$$ go with the LS6 block and add forged rods and pistons with your stock crank.. 
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03-12-2007, 07:47 AM
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i'm sure your insurance will pay what the dealership will charge for a replacement stock block. Take that money and purchase a stock cubed FORGED short block. If you can spring it go with a ls2 forged block, the extra cubes will give you extra torque down low which is what you want for autox/road racing.
03-12-2007, 10:07 AM
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right, SOM beat me to it! Did the insurance say a stock block or the complete longblock (heads and block)
you can take that money and put that towards a 402 ls2 or a 382 ls6. Either way, you have some options but if you want to stay stock cubes, take that ls6, swap over your cam and heads. If your having issues with traction, with your mods, well, one thing is to turn down the boost from your procharger. Another, is look into the suspension and look into why she ain't hooking. To much compression damping in rear? You said you RR/autocross the car, you might have it set to tight in the rear so the car doesn't transfer weight.
good luck!!!
Did the insurance say a stock block or the complete longblock (heads and block)you can take that money and put that towards a 402 ls2 or a 382 ls6. Either way, you have some options but if you want to stay stock cubes, take that ls6, swap over your cam and heads. If your having issues with traction, with your mods, well, one thing is to turn down the boost from your procharger. Another, is look into the suspension and look into why she ain't hooking. To much compression damping in rear? You said you RR/autocross the car, you might have it set to tight in the rear so the car doesn't transfer weight.
good luck!!!
