1INSANEGTO

iTrader: (13)

Ok reading another thread here I wanted to get some feedback and not ***** his thread.

Ok I had valvetrain tap once motor warmed up. Changed oil and found it was thin. Once I changed no tap at all. Made 6 1/4 miles passes and tap came back. Check oil and its thin again. Again on start up it does not do it till its warm. Its nothing to do with the motor I am 100% sure, but with the oil being so thin.

The car is running really rich 10:1 below and I am running meth.

What could be the cause of this? Running rich or Meth

How often do I need to change my oil? Reg change or what?

I am running mob1 10W30.

Do I need to switch to a different oil?

Help needed please.

cablebandit

iTrader: (37)

might have some gas in the oil if its that rich. I always changed mine every 3-5000 miles with no probs

1INSANEGTO

iTrader: (13)

Should I stay with the mob1 10W30? Thats what I was thinking was fuel cause I am told thats really really rich. I see it on my wide band when I hit boost it shoots to 10 so it might be lower but it just tuning issues that have to be worked out I guess.

Tiago

iTrader: (27)

15w50 is all Ive used on turbo cars. It gets real hot if you're beating on it.

stevieturbo

Running so rich could wash the bores, and dilute the oil. Does the oil smell of fuel ?

Im running Motul 300V 5/40 in my car, and its fine. I did use 15/50 previously though. Im not a fan of overly thin oils.

NA$TY-TA

iTrader: (21)

Id say your starting to wash the cylinder walls from running so rich..... and then getting fuel in the oil....

I run 5W30 in my motor. Mobil 1. I run it for about 1K miles or so.... then i change it.....sometimes less...

1INSANEGTO

iTrader: (13)

15w50 good for a street car daily driven?

No fuel smell in oil. I am getting it tuned this weekend! Eric going to get all the tuning headache done!

DrTurbo

iTrader: (3)

Rotella 10W40. We use it on our turbo motors. Nothing beats it.

Inspector12

iTrader: (29)

Do not run that thick of an oil. I have had personal experience with this problem and the tune is probably your biggest problem that much fuel and some blow by under boost and it is contaminated with fuel and to much that won't flash off under regualar driving. With the clearances that are on our motors you shouldn't run anything thicker than a 10W40 if you go anythicker you are just cooking the oil trying to force such a thick oil through tight or normal clearances. I guaratee your oil temp will be a lot higher with the thicker oil and it will break down quicker and also doesn't flow as well so takes longer for parts to get oil on startup etc... Ideal oil temp is 220 just hot enough to flash off any normal blow by fuel, I say normal cause if you are pouring the fuel in your motor under boost it will contaminate oil fast and will also break it down and that equal more motor wear and so on down the list of probelms it can cause. By the way before any of you internet gurus say anything this is first hand experience with 20W50 and then swapping to a 10W40 that was a 62 degree drop in oil temps in the high 280 low 290's with the 20W50. If you set you bearing clearances up at 30-35 thousands then a 15W50 or 20W50 could be and would be recomended, but I know of noone setting up those clearances now days. That test was on a big block and it didn't matter if it was on the drag strip or on the road couse the temps were still lower with the 10W40 not as high temps in Drags cause of the short duration of the run etc..., but it was noticibly lower and in the proper operating range. Get your tune looked at and get your AF down in the mid 11's and you will see a huge change in your oil samples. Good luck.

Got Me SOM

iTrader: (2)

good info!!

RW99

Useful, thanks for the post. 10w40 for me.

fastest94v6

iTrader: (10)

honestly, I run mobil 1 10w30, and I'm adding a quart by oil change time. Just did my cam swap and the valvetrain is louder....i'm switching to royal purple.

Inspector12

iTrader: (29)

Do you know where it is going? Or do are you automaticly assuming that it is burning it thourgh piston blow by or valvetrain etc... I have found most people's problems are related to the PVC system not correctly valved off (Check valve.) on boosted applications and on N/A applications same isssue just not having a catch can ususally (Then installing one) has solved 90% of all the people's problems with loss of oil and ussually the rest have been valve related (Seals or Guides). Good luck I have used both I like the RP stuff better although I couldn't tell any real difference in performance on any level both are good products.

Country Boy

iTrader: (24)

I ran 20W50 with NO problems in my SS, but I would not do it with a stock motor... Its too thick for the stock bearing clearences. I did it once with my old stock motor and drained it out 5 minutes later.

JMBLOWNWS6

iTrader: (17)

LOL I got this info over the phone!

Inspector12

iTrader: (29)

I am not saying that it will cause all problems, but it will cause you to have higher than normal oil temps if you have clearances set up in the 2-2.5 range like 99% of all engine builders do now days. And that is not what you want usually. I have known a lot of people running it with no real issues it will just run hotter and break down a little easier for that reason. Just some info I thought I'd share if some one wants to run 20W50 go ahead I am just saying that it is not giving you the effect or protection that you are/were looking for etc...

gi8e7oi825

iTrader: (32)

Did you experience this problem on a built or stock motor? It was recommended to me by Lingenfelter to use 15W50 on their engine. They also said they use it on all their TT Corvettes. I just want to make sure because I'm really not interested in buying another damn engine.

Zombie

iTrader: (2)

I run 10/40 in the winter and switch to 20-50 or just straight 50W for summer since it gets so hot here. Even the 20-50 gets kind of thin.

I'm also a fan of Shell Rotella oil like DrTurbo. Very cheap and lasts a long time, this is what most cummins diesel guys run.

Snyper

iTrader: (27)

So rotella is good? I plan on changing my oil every 1000-1500 miles..and I dont really want to go mobile 1 from the price...

Inspector12

iTrader: (29)

Well I am not saying that it will kill your motor. I am saying that it is not good for it. I don't care if you are in Las Vegas or Minasota there is no need for that thick of an oil the oil companies ratings take in account heat etc... But everyone makes there own decisions and that is what we all have to do. Every one shouldn't do what another person does they should do what is right for them or what they decide to run etc... I was just providing the facts that I found out recently as I would have thought the same about a thick oil like a 20W50. The thread was asking about thin oil issues and so I chimed in with my personal findings and newly leard information. The motor was a built motor and acctually there were two different motors both had the same results though. Like I said if you set up very large clearances (.03-.035) then thick oil is acctually a recomendation so it is important to know what you have although 90% of all new motor are (.02-.025) these are just ranges so don't think they are going to be the exact for every motor.