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What radiator hoses is everyone using for this? I'm about ready to buy my griffin radiator from summit and want to know if there are hoses I need to order from summit for it to work as well.
This has been a great source of info for me. During a 15min back road drive to work on a 75* sunny day, I got up to 205*...that does not sit well with me. Yesterday at autocross I fought 240* and had to stop early. This is on a stock 95Z M6 with 75K mi...I'm building a parts list of the following:
-Griffin 1-25241-X (plan to weld a bung for head steam vent tube)
-Meziere EWP WP118HD
-Meziere Harness Kit WIK346
-Goodyear flex hose 52020 (1.5" to 1.75" and 16.3125" lg) will need to confirm this length will work for lower rad hose
-A/C Delco88909215 (1.5" to 1.25" reducer) use this to get 1.5" flex hose on 1.25" WP tube. OR maybe cut a section of OEM hose and use that as the adapter.
-HOPEFULLY reuse the stock upper hose as people mentioned it worked.
My goal is to keep AC condenser and fabricate some straps to hold everything. I also plan to reuse the stock fans even if I have to trim them to fit.
In the end it will look original (in terms of a angled setup) but be shorter than the OEM radiator. I currently have a SLP lid under a stock LT1 hood and may have to re-evaluate fitment of the lid when new setup is finished.
Last edited by smitty2919; 06-15-2015 at 01:14 PM.
With my stand up setup, I have a 180* thermostat. While cruising at highway/freeway speeds even with the IC in front of the rad, I rarely see over 185* temps even high 80s temps. on cold days I usually cruise at mid 170s
If I understand y our post correctly you have a stock non FI car right?
If so do not do the standing up radiator mod. This mod is not done to improve the cooling system over factory, its done to fit a turbo.
Your stock cooling system especially if you want to keep ac is better than most all griffin stood up radiator setups.
You need to diagnose your over heating issue like any normal car.
Dont cut your stock car up for this mod unless you need to fit a turbo or blower.
Alex
Originally Posted by smitty2919
This has been a great source of info for me. During a 15min back road drive to work on a 75* sunny day, I got up to 205*...that does not sit well with me. Yesterday at autocross I fought 240* and had to stop early. This is on a stock 95Z M6 with 75K mi...I'm building a parts list of the following:
-Griffin 1-25241-X (plan to weld a bung for head steam vent tube)
-Meziere EWP WP118HD
-Meziere Harness Kit WIK346
-Goodyear flex hose 52020 (1.5" to 1.75" and 16.3125" lg) will need to confirm this length will work for lower rad hose
-A/C Delco88909215 (1.5" to 1.25" reducer) use this to get 1.5" flex hose on 1.25" WP tube. OR maybe cut a section of OEM hose and use that as the adapter.
-HOPEFULLY reuse the stock upper hose as people mentioned it worked.
My goal is to keep AC condenser and fabricate some straps to hold everything. I also plan to reuse the stock fans even if I have to trim them to fit.
In the end it will look original (in terms of a angled setup) but be shorter than the OEM radiator. I currently have a SLP lid under a stock LT1 hood and may have to re-evaluate fitment of the lid when new setup is finished.
Yes this is a stock non FI car. Come to find out my stock radiator was all gummed up with crap. So bad that when I pulled the drain plug, NOTHING came out.
The radiator will not be "stood up" like the FI guys are doing. There will still be stock-like angle to the AC condenser and radiator. Compared to the stock radiator, it will be slightly shorter, but thicker core.
Thank you for pointing out a concern. I expect parts in this week and start getting things put together.
This was several pages back and didnt see this question really get answered or talked about. Here is a post from me in another thread........
I have done some research on people using the generic griffen model # Gri-1-25241-x and some have had cooling issues and some dont. Yes that one is only 179.95 from summit but is it actually the best for what you are buying for?
To support the power I would recommend the GRI-1-55241-xs.
Ok to go into this a little deeper here are the three options you can get from Summit
1. GRI-1-25241-x, (This is what everyone gets) 27.5"x15.5"x3", core size is 2" with an overall of 3". This uses only a 1" tubing!
2. GRI-1-55241-x, same dimensions all around including core size but uses a 1-1/4" tubing
3. GRI-1-55241-xs, same dimensions as previous but changes to a 2.5" core and overall is 2.5". Also uses a 1-1/4" tubing
Radiator is in...and now I see nothing above 190* whether sitting at a light in 80* day. Cruising on the hwy it drops to about 16-*-170*.
I kept the stock reclined angle. I retained AC and am a happy camper right now. Can't wait to get the car to autocross on a sunny 80*+ day and see how it does for staying cool.
I'd love to avoid "notching" the core support in favor of using a hole saw or something of that liking to just fit the top reservoir cap through the core support.
Car is a 2000 Trans Am WS6.
I'll PayPal beer money for anyone with comprehensive pictures and instructions lol.
I'd love to avoid "notching" the core support in favor of using a hole saw or something of that liking to just fit the top reservoir cap through the core support.
Car is a 2000 Trans Am WS6.
I'll PayPal beer money for anyone with comprehensive pictures and instructions lol.
getting ready to tackle it. motor is out and front end is apart. running that same rad. ill let you know how it goes. might get pissed and just notch it. lol.
2 of those fans fit on that rad? im leaning towards them but haven't picked any up yet.
getting ready to tackle it. motor is out and front end is apart. running that same rad. ill let you know how it goes. might get pissed and just notch it. lol.
2 of those fans fit on that rad? im leaning towards them but haven't picked any up yet.
I really hope they fit lol.
Parts are stacking up and my engine bay/car is waiting on paint. I need to get this done before it goes out.
Was planning on cutting the underside of the core support, measure where the next for the cap needs to go, and get the trust hole saw out.
I think a lot of how far forward the radiator needs to go, and if you need to cut the support lies within the room the size of turbo and its location allows.
My dumb *** decided it would be wise to buy a GIANT turbo. The turbo itself is nothing crazy, but Borg Warner housings are huge. I successfully moved mine forward with fans and have clearance for the turbo. But there was a LOT of fabrication involved, and I referenced this thread a ton to get it done. Having a smaller turbo would have made life a LOT easier.
I think a lot of how far forward the radiator needs to go, and if you need to cut the support lies within the room the size of turbo and its location allows.
My dumb *** decided it would be wise to buy a GIANT turbo. The turbo itself is nothing crazy, but Borg Warner housings are huge. I successfully moved mine forward with fans and have clearance for the turbo. But there was a LOT of fabrication involved, and I referenced this thread a ton to get it done. Having a smaller turbo would have made life a LOT easier.
Just be prepared for a LOT of fabrication and patience. If I were to do it over again, I'd be doing a smaller Precision turbo over a BW. It didn't seem like it would be a big deal at the time, but I have spent a LOT extra in fabrication and just the time involved also with making it fit.
Just finished doing the stand up radiator for a s484, not hard or does it take very long, 2 cuts with the sawzall and top core support is cut out in less than 5 minutes, 2 plates to cap off the cuts get welded on, an hour at the most. The hood latch mounting points will dictate where the 1x1 new square tube gets welded in, about 20 minutes, weld in 2 1x1 pieces cut into the bottom core support for the radiator to sit on, about 45 minutes. Then just make a couple brackets to hold the radiator up top with 70-81 Fbody radiator mounting rubbers, paint and your done. Took me about 3 hours total. 2 Derale 16925 fans fit in front with no additional cutting. Radiator is the Griffin 1-58241-XLS. For my lower hose I used a Dayco 81171 (flexible universal hose) which is a little long for most but what I need to clear the downpipe exiting out the passenger side front bumper, The upper hose is a Gates 22358 just trimmed to fit.
Last edited by blown67chevelle; 07-17-2015 at 05:44 PM.
I meant more or less the physical fabrication time around the BW turbo, not standing up the radiator itself. It looks like the S484 is quite a bit smaller than my S400 though, and the size really means a lot.
I figured I would update this after autocrossing in 80-90* heat yesterday. With the Griffin 1-2524x-1 radiator I never saw temps above 200*. I have my warning light set to 210 and it never came on. I had ability to use manual fans and EWP in grid, but chose not to in order to see how the radiator would do. I barely opened the hood in between runs as well. I knew that IF temps got higher than I liked, I could kick the EWP and fans on and have temps drop a good 20* in under 3 minutes. Given the lower coolant temps, I could maintain more oil pressure as well. Before this, when the car reached 240*, my idle oil pressure would hover around 10psi...now it's 15-20.
Needless to say I am happy. This is on a DD car as well so even though it is smaller than stock, it is thicker and works very well. I also retained all of my AC components.
Here is my setup. Completely boxed in the upper support and cleaned up the radiator support with filler. Came out great. The last picture we had just set the turbo in the car to see how it looked. Also, s484 using the Huron Speed t6 kit.
05-20-2015, 02:27 PM
