In need of some advice, switching from n2o to turbo....
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In need of some advice, switching from n2o to turbo....
Hey guys, I just wanted to see what kind of advice you could give me on my build. I was running low 9's on nitrous and would like to go 8.50's - 8.70's consistantly with the turbo setup whenever I finish it (chassis is cert to 8.50, and I don't want to spend the money on all the chassis work to go faster, so 8.5 is the goal).
I'll be putting my crank and rods in an iron block, which will make 398 cubes (3.9 crank), and i'm thinkin like 8.5:1 compression. I'll be sending my heads back to TEA to get the combustion chambers opened up and have a little more work done to 'em. We're going to use a set of truck manifolds to save on custom building headers, and we'll be fabbing all the piping ourselves. I'm planning on using the stock computer tuning it with my efilive so???are.
Now here's a few ?'s, i've heard from a buddy that you can run 60 lb injectors @ like 95 psi fuel pressure and that'll handle 800 - 900 rwhp, is that true, if so, that would save me from having to buy the converter box for the bigger injectors and probably keep the car more streetable too. I'll be using the bosch pump (maybe two of 'em) with the stock tank running -10 line for the feed and probably use the stock lines for the return. Does this sound good for the fuel system?
I do not know a lot about turbo's, so I was wondering what size turbo i'm going to need, I was thinking an 88mm would do the job, but not sure if it was big enough, is that good, or do I need bigger?
Any help is much appreciated guys, like I said, i'm trying to do this on as much of a budget as possible and please excuse me if i'm a little out of the loop about turbo stuff, this is going to be my first jump into the world of turbo's, so I have a lot to learn and a lot of research to do!
I'll be putting my crank and rods in an iron block, which will make 398 cubes (3.9 crank), and i'm thinkin like 8.5:1 compression. I'll be sending my heads back to TEA to get the combustion chambers opened up and have a little more work done to 'em. We're going to use a set of truck manifolds to save on custom building headers, and we'll be fabbing all the piping ourselves. I'm planning on using the stock computer tuning it with my efilive so???are.
Now here's a few ?'s, i've heard from a buddy that you can run 60 lb injectors @ like 95 psi fuel pressure and that'll handle 800 - 900 rwhp, is that true, if so, that would save me from having to buy the converter box for the bigger injectors and probably keep the car more streetable too. I'll be using the bosch pump (maybe two of 'em) with the stock tank running -10 line for the feed and probably use the stock lines for the return. Does this sound good for the fuel system?
I do not know a lot about turbo's, so I was wondering what size turbo i'm going to need, I was thinking an 88mm would do the job, but not sure if it was big enough, is that good, or do I need bigger?
Any help is much appreciated guys, like I said, i'm trying to do this on as much of a budget as possible and please excuse me if i'm a little out of the loop about turbo stuff, this is going to be my first jump into the world of turbo's, so I have a lot to learn and a lot of research to do!
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Don't skimp on the fuel system, that's the biggest mistake when moving to boost.
Spend the money on the proper sized injectors and driver if you plan to stick with the stock PCM. Finding a pump(s) that will flow enough fuel at extremely elevated pressure levels will be difficult and expensive. Even more so if you plan to run high base pressures, since you'll be adding 15 to 20 psi more fuel pressure as boost goes up.
an 88 should get you there, but depending on which one/company it may not get you much more than bottom 8's if the time ever comes for that.
Spend the money on the proper sized injectors and driver if you plan to stick with the stock PCM. Finding a pump(s) that will flow enough fuel at extremely elevated pressure levels will be difficult and expensive. Even more so if you plan to run high base pressures, since you'll be adding 15 to 20 psi more fuel pressure as boost goes up.
an 88 should get you there, but depending on which one/company it may not get you much more than bottom 8's if the time ever comes for that.
#3
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Originally Posted by y2khawk
Don't skimp on the fuel system, that's the biggest mistake when moving to boost.
Spend the money on the proper sized injectors and driver if you plan to stick with the stock PCM. Finding a pump(s) that will flow enough fuel at extremely elevated pressure levels will be difficult and expensive. Even more so if you plan to run high base pressures, since you'll be adding 15 to 20 psi more fuel pressure as boost goes up.
an 88 should get you there, but depending on which one/company it may not get you much more than bottom 8's if the time ever comes for that.
Spend the money on the proper sized injectors and driver if you plan to stick with the stock PCM. Finding a pump(s) that will flow enough fuel at extremely elevated pressure levels will be difficult and expensive. Even more so if you plan to run high base pressures, since you'll be adding 15 to 20 psi more fuel pressure as boost goes up.
an 88 should get you there, but depending on which one/company it may not get you much more than bottom 8's if the time ever comes for that.
#4
list of things....2 044 pumps, -10 lines..stock return will be fine GET INJECTORS...88 should do the job..but you may want to leave a little spray, (the juice..the squeeze the kick).on her...just in case..lol....good luck!!!
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Originally Posted by y2khawk
Don't skimp on the fuel system, that's the biggest mistake when moving to boost.
Spend the money on the proper sized injectors and driver if you plan to stick with the stock PCM. Finding a pump(s) that will flow enough fuel at extremely elevated pressure levels will be difficult and expensive. Even more so if you plan to run high base pressures, since you'll be adding 15 to 20 psi more fuel pressure as boost goes up.
an 88 should get you there, but depending on which one/company it may not get you much more than bottom 8's if the time ever comes for that.
Spend the money on the proper sized injectors and driver if you plan to stick with the stock PCM. Finding a pump(s) that will flow enough fuel at extremely elevated pressure levels will be difficult and expensive. Even more so if you plan to run high base pressures, since you'll be adding 15 to 20 psi more fuel pressure as boost goes up.
an 88 should get you there, but depending on which one/company it may not get you much more than bottom 8's if the time ever comes for that.
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Originally Posted by ocdwill
list of things....2 044 pumps, -10 lines..stock return will be fine GET INJECTORS...88 should do the job..but you may want to leave a little spray, (the juice..the squeeze the kick).on her...just in case..lol....good luck!!!
#7
Originally Posted by Loudmouth LS1
Thanks dude! I'd rather not have to use a bottle, i'm tired of filling 'em and adjusting pressure and all that all the time, it gets old after a while! What are the 044 pumps (link)? What size injectors do you all think I will need, and ur vette is puttin down some nasty power dude, are you using a stock computer, or aftermarket?
stock computer....and i still love nitrous..lol the pumps are bosch, 044 is the part number they will do the job for ya..as far as injectors we use mototron 60# up to 900 hp..and never have a problem...we double them up from 900+ plus...thats rwhp..
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#8
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Originally Posted by Loudmouth LS1
Thanks man, how much is the converter box, and where can I get it, if I could afford BS3 in the budget I would, but it's just not an option. I'm not worried about goin faster than low 8's, cuz the money it would take to get the chassis legal for faster than 8.50's is just retarded, but if I ever do get to that point i'll just upgrade the turbo, I just wanted to make sure the 88 was enough for what i'm doin, if it's enough for low 8's, then that's good, gives me growing room in case. Which companies turbo would you recommend, I was looking at the Precision PT88, how are precision's turbo's, cuz I heard they are pretty good. Which one would you recommend, I don't mind spending a decent amount on the turbo, I know that's gonna be one of the most expensive parts and is one of the most important! Also, if I get the converter box and run the real big injectors, how hard is it gonna be to get the car to idle? I'd like to still keep the car driveable for hangin out with the guys on the weekends and stuff like that, not a ton of driving, but the regular weekend warrior **** on low boost and 93 just cruisin around. Thanks for helping Matt, I appreciate ur input, I know u know ur **** about turbo's!
Unless you are going to be running in a class that restricts you to a T4 Flanged Turbo then Precisions PT88 is a goof choice...
Another one is the one im running... the S88. Its a T6 flanged 88 mm turbo from Forced Inductions..... it is a lil spendy... about $1900.... its on the same lines as Precison's GT47-88.
Im running a driver box with a stock PCM on my car.... 96# Inj and harlans driver box that i dont thing he makes anymore....
car idles awsome and i cruise the car around all the time... D/D the car for 9 months straight in snow and rain..... so that hjas to tell ya something....
now i am using a Piggy back set-up... the MAF T Pro with a 3 bar MAP setup... tuned by harlan...
No when my car was coming togeather it was decided that we didnt want to run two pumps in case one went out and we didnt know it until it was to late.... so we went with Aeromotives pro-series fuel pump, fuel pump controller and FP Regulator....
What do you have already as far as fuel system and what waste gate and bypass/ BOV do you plan to run???
Air to water Intercooler or A2A???
Piping sizes??
Kyle
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Originally Posted by ocdwill
stock computer....and i still love nitrous..lol the pumps are bosch, 044 is the part number they will do the job for ya..as far as injectors we use mototron 60# up to 900 hp..and never have a problem...we double them up from 900+ plus...thats rwhp..
Last edited by Loudmouth LS1; 05-06-2007 at 08:56 PM.
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Originally Posted by NA$TY-TA
Unless you are going to be running in a class that restricts you to a T4 Flanged Turbo then Precisions PT88 is a goof choice...
Another one is the one im running... the S88. Its a T6 flanged 88 mm turbo from Forced Inductions..... it is a lil spendy... about $1900.... its on the same lines as Precison's GT47-88.
Im running a driver box with a stock PCM on my car.... 96# Inj and harlans driver box that i dont thing he makes anymore....
car idles awsome and i cruise the car around all the time... D/D the car for 9 months straight in snow and rain..... so that hjas to tell ya something....
now i am using a Piggy back set-up... the MAF T Pro with a 3 bar MAP setup... tuned by harlan...
No when my car was coming togeather it was decided that we didnt want to run two pumps in case one went out and we didnt know it until it was to late.... so we went with Aeromotives pro-series fuel pump, fuel pump controller and FP Regulator....
What do you have already as far as fuel system and what waste gate and bypass/ BOV do you plan to run???
Air to water Intercooler or A2A???
Piping sizes??
Kyle
Another one is the one im running... the S88. Its a T6 flanged 88 mm turbo from Forced Inductions..... it is a lil spendy... about $1900.... its on the same lines as Precison's GT47-88.
Im running a driver box with a stock PCM on my car.... 96# Inj and harlans driver box that i dont thing he makes anymore....
car idles awsome and i cruise the car around all the time... D/D the car for 9 months straight in snow and rain..... so that hjas to tell ya something....
now i am using a Piggy back set-up... the MAF T Pro with a 3 bar MAP setup... tuned by harlan...
No when my car was coming togeather it was decided that we didnt want to run two pumps in case one went out and we didnt know it until it was to late.... so we went with Aeromotives pro-series fuel pump, fuel pump controller and FP Regulator....
What do you have already as far as fuel system and what waste gate and bypass/ BOV do you plan to run???
Air to water Intercooler or A2A???
Piping sizes??
Kyle
Oh and I don't really run any classes, I do a bunch of heads up racing and just running to run for fun, so I don't think I have to really worry about any restrictions with flange sizes and all, but what difference does the flange size on the turbo make, I do want a turbo that is going to spool fairly quickly so I don't have to sit on the line forever trying to build boost when i'm in a heads up race on a protree.
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Originally Posted by Country Boy
Make sure you have a very fat and bottomless wallet... lol
Once I get a bunch of **** sold i'll be starting off with a couple grand, and just gonna start working some more over time and packing away money, hopefully have everything here to get started by the end of summer.
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By the way, how come i'm seeing a lot of the boost guys are running the carb style intakes? Is there a problem with using a FAST 90, cuz I was planning on using mine?
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Maybe look at our new single race kit, With the turbo were using from Turbonetic it will be able to support the power you need to run the times you want. I disagree with the others to use the stock computer. I personally prefer DFI but would use whatever your tuner likes. As for fuel system a weldon 2025A with 96 pph injectors would work best.
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Devon..I have followed your car for some time - being an ex-nitrous guy myself.
First Harlon has been doing turbos a long time. He is 100% correct on fuel with turbos, you can always adjust for the extra fuel, but it is really hard to get something that isn't there. Go with with 96#.
Looks like your have your engine in tow. You don't have to go all the way to an 8.5 to 1 engine - mine is 9.3-1. Look at your cam also. Read up on the 100+ posts on "what's the best cam for my set-up". I still like the idea of calling a turbo build expert to order the cam.
For the intake. Your's will be fine. If you didn't have a good one, than maybe step up to the Victor Jr. -- why do we use it? A million reasons. Me personally, I wanted more top end hp and not worried about the minor loss of TQ down low. Besides it is a lot cheaper than your's - I paid less than $400 for mine.
The stock computer is not going to be easy to tune for the hp and times you want. DFI, BS...and than AEM is one I use.
Stock coil packs are still good - I run my stock 98 coils.
Good choice on manifolds - cheap but effective.
A2A - ok for street/drag... get a big enough one. I do like my A2W
On the turbos -- twin's all the way...T-67 will get you easy into the 8's. Easy to spool on the street and at the track.
One thing great about the turbo - you can always adjust down. Running 8.2's and the track give you grief, turn the boost down.
Read, read, ask questions. Don't be afraid to ask questions, we are more than willing to help.
Good luck on your build. Build it right the 1st time, you'll be happier and will end up not wasting money.
David
First Harlon has been doing turbos a long time. He is 100% correct on fuel with turbos, you can always adjust for the extra fuel, but it is really hard to get something that isn't there. Go with with 96#.
Looks like your have your engine in tow. You don't have to go all the way to an 8.5 to 1 engine - mine is 9.3-1. Look at your cam also. Read up on the 100+ posts on "what's the best cam for my set-up". I still like the idea of calling a turbo build expert to order the cam.
For the intake. Your's will be fine. If you didn't have a good one, than maybe step up to the Victor Jr. -- why do we use it? A million reasons. Me personally, I wanted more top end hp and not worried about the minor loss of TQ down low. Besides it is a lot cheaper than your's - I paid less than $400 for mine.
The stock computer is not going to be easy to tune for the hp and times you want. DFI, BS...and than AEM is one I use.
Stock coil packs are still good - I run my stock 98 coils.
Good choice on manifolds - cheap but effective.
A2A - ok for street/drag... get a big enough one. I do like my A2W
On the turbos -- twin's all the way...T-67 will get you easy into the 8's. Easy to spool on the street and at the track.
One thing great about the turbo - you can always adjust down. Running 8.2's and the track give you grief, turn the boost down.
Read, read, ask questions. Don't be afraid to ask questions, we are more than willing to help.
Good luck on your build. Build it right the 1st time, you'll be happier and will end up not wasting money.
David
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Originally Posted by Turbo Tech
Maybe look at our new single race kit, With the turbo were using from Turbonetic it will be able to support the power you need to run the times you want. I disagree with the others to use the stock computer. I personally prefer DFI but would use whatever your tuner likes. As for fuel system a weldon 2025A with 96 pph injectors would work best.
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Originally Posted by Loudmouth LS1
Thanks man, but I don't like kits, we're gonna put it all together ourselves so we can put stuff where we want it and to keep the cost down.
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Originally Posted by Navy David SS
Devon..I have followed your car for some time - being an ex-nitrous guy myself.
First Harlon has been doing turbos a long time. He is 100% correct on fuel with turbos, you can always adjust for the extra fuel, but it is really hard to get something that isn't there. Go with with 96#. Anyone know where I can get the converter box and the price so I can run that big of an injector?
Looks like your have your engine in tow. You don't have to go all the way to an 8.5 to 1 engine - mine is 9.3-1. Look at your cam also. Read up on the 100+ posts on "what's the best cam for my set-up". I still like the idea of calling a turbo build expert to order the cam. Just figured 8.5:1 would be nice and safe, and that's what my buddy who built this motor for the nitrous setup recommended for the turbo setup. As for the cam, I was planning on calling W2W or Stenod (since those 2 companies build some badass turbo cars) to spec it out when I have everything in check with the setup and can tell them exactly what I have and what i'm lookin to do, just like I did with the nitrous cam with futral on my setup i've been running for the past 2 years. One more ? on the motor, are all the big boost guys running 1/2" studs, or the regular studs, cuz I have the regular studs right now and they've held all the way up to a 350 shot, and i'm sure they probably would've held 400 if I ever tried it!
For the intake. Your's will be fine. If you didn't have a good one, than maybe step up to the Victor Jr. -- why do we use it? A million reasons. Me personally, I wanted more top end hp and not worried about the minor loss of TQ down low. Besides it is a lot cheaper than your's - I paid less than $400 for mine. Good to know, was worried that maybe they had problems holding up to the boost.
The stock computer is not going to be easy to tune for the hp and times you want. DFI, BS...and than AEM is one I use. I really wish I could afford BS3, but for now i'm gonna have to stick with the stocker, down the line after everything is together and time goes on and the wallet recoops, i'm sure i'll upgrade along with upgrading a few other little things here and there.
Stock coil packs are still good - I run my stock 98 coils. Sweet, never even thought about that as a possibility of something that needed to be changed.
Good choice on manifolds - cheap but effective. Thanks man, that's about the only thing i've already got, found a set for sale off an '04 for $50 shipped and jumped on 'em while they were available, should be shipping out to me monday or tuesday.
A2A - ok for street/drag... get a big enough one. I do like my A2W I will probably get the same intercooler my buddy got, if it can handle his, it should handle mine and we already know it will fit and all.
On the turbos -- twin's all the way...T-67 will get you easy into the 8's. Easy to spool on the street and at the track. if I could afford it, I would, but then that'd be 2 turbos @ $1500 - $2000 a piece, so i'm gonna stick with one bigger one.
One thing great about the turbo - you can always adjust down. Running 8.2's and the track give you grief, turn the boost down. Yeah, hp on demand is the ****!!!!
Read, read, ask questions. Don't be afraid to ask questions, we are more than willing to help. Yup, that's why I started this thread, starting the research already!
Good luck on your build. Build it right the 1st time, you'll be happier and will end up not wasting money. Thanks David, I appreciate all the words of encouragement!
David
First Harlon has been doing turbos a long time. He is 100% correct on fuel with turbos, you can always adjust for the extra fuel, but it is really hard to get something that isn't there. Go with with 96#. Anyone know where I can get the converter box and the price so I can run that big of an injector?
Looks like your have your engine in tow. You don't have to go all the way to an 8.5 to 1 engine - mine is 9.3-1. Look at your cam also. Read up on the 100+ posts on "what's the best cam for my set-up". I still like the idea of calling a turbo build expert to order the cam. Just figured 8.5:1 would be nice and safe, and that's what my buddy who built this motor for the nitrous setup recommended for the turbo setup. As for the cam, I was planning on calling W2W or Stenod (since those 2 companies build some badass turbo cars) to spec it out when I have everything in check with the setup and can tell them exactly what I have and what i'm lookin to do, just like I did with the nitrous cam with futral on my setup i've been running for the past 2 years. One more ? on the motor, are all the big boost guys running 1/2" studs, or the regular studs, cuz I have the regular studs right now and they've held all the way up to a 350 shot, and i'm sure they probably would've held 400 if I ever tried it!
For the intake. Your's will be fine. If you didn't have a good one, than maybe step up to the Victor Jr. -- why do we use it? A million reasons. Me personally, I wanted more top end hp and not worried about the minor loss of TQ down low. Besides it is a lot cheaper than your's - I paid less than $400 for mine. Good to know, was worried that maybe they had problems holding up to the boost.
The stock computer is not going to be easy to tune for the hp and times you want. DFI, BS...and than AEM is one I use. I really wish I could afford BS3, but for now i'm gonna have to stick with the stocker, down the line after everything is together and time goes on and the wallet recoops, i'm sure i'll upgrade along with upgrading a few other little things here and there.
Stock coil packs are still good - I run my stock 98 coils. Sweet, never even thought about that as a possibility of something that needed to be changed.
Good choice on manifolds - cheap but effective. Thanks man, that's about the only thing i've already got, found a set for sale off an '04 for $50 shipped and jumped on 'em while they were available, should be shipping out to me monday or tuesday.
A2A - ok for street/drag... get a big enough one. I do like my A2W I will probably get the same intercooler my buddy got, if it can handle his, it should handle mine and we already know it will fit and all.
On the turbos -- twin's all the way...T-67 will get you easy into the 8's. Easy to spool on the street and at the track. if I could afford it, I would, but then that'd be 2 turbos @ $1500 - $2000 a piece, so i'm gonna stick with one bigger one.
One thing great about the turbo - you can always adjust down. Running 8.2's and the track give you grief, turn the boost down. Yeah, hp on demand is the ****!!!!
Read, read, ask questions. Don't be afraid to ask questions, we are more than willing to help. Yup, that's why I started this thread, starting the research already!
Good luck on your build. Build it right the 1st time, you'll be happier and will end up not wasting money. Thanks David, I appreciate all the words of encouragement!
David
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Originally Posted by Loudmouth LS1
By the way, how come i'm seeing a lot of the boost guys are running the carb style intakes? Is there a problem with using a FAST 90, cuz I was planning on using mine?
also without BS3 (which can change fuel to each injector individualy) some people put higher flowing injectors on the back pistons
also im down the street if u ever need help!
#20
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Devon... On the head studs.. I run the normal/stock ARP head bolts - not studs. Seems to be OK so far.
One advantage you have over some one just starting out is that your suspension, rear-end and tranny should be complete. Roll cage, most of your gauges, etc, already bought.
All you have left: build engine; buy turbo(s); all the piping; intercooler; injectors;
If you have someone experience with numerous turbo builds you're 1 up on most of us. Notice I said numerous!!
I agree also that one off custom turbos ARE the best way to go. BUT you maybe able to get a good deal on the turbo and intercooler from a sponsor. Just a thought.
David
One advantage you have over some one just starting out is that your suspension, rear-end and tranny should be complete. Roll cage, most of your gauges, etc, already bought.
All you have left: build engine; buy turbo(s); all the piping; intercooler; injectors;
If you have someone experience with numerous turbo builds you're 1 up on most of us. Notice I said numerous!!
I agree also that one off custom turbos ARE the best way to go. BUT you maybe able to get a good deal on the turbo and intercooler from a sponsor. Just a thought.
David