LS1 vs. LS6 intake and few other questions
05-08-2007, 02:54 AM
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LS1 vs. LS6 intake and few other questions I'm new to the fbody community and FI. Recently bought a 2000 TA to fix up. Trying to go fast on the cheap so I'm going to make my own 6.0 Liter front facing manifold kit with the help of the sticky at the top of this forum. So far its been very helpful. I already bought 99% of the parts for the turbo kit and motor. Goal with this car is 800 rwhp. I've serached a lot but the search brings me to google 80% of the time. I have a few left over questions.
I have stock 6.0 heads to help lower compression a bit. I have not bought pistons yet cause I don't know whether to get flat tops or not. I don't want compression to be too low. First question is what is stock compression, looks like 10:1? How much do the 6.0L heads lower compression, .5 or a full point? If it lowers it a full point, is 9:1 okay or should I go lower to 8.5? I don't want the car to be too sluggish around town as this is my only car/DD.
Second question is, what gaskets should I use and what bore? 5.7L to match the block or 6.0L to match the head?
Third, this is forced induction and I'm trying to do this cheap so do I have to convert to a LS6 intake? What will it hurt to stay with the stock LS1 manifold? Will it cause detonation or just require me to run more boost? I saw a thread where it only made an extra 10whp on a NA car so how much is it really costing me? I couldn't find ANY dyno results comparing the two with FI. I'm thinking it might require me to run an extra 1lb of boost at most to compensate? Is that ballpark? Down to the point, worth the $350 for a used one?
Fourth, my friend has a rotating assembly he wants to sell cheap, $500. Stock "race-prepped" crank and forged pistons/rods for stock compression, hence the 6.0L heads. Its already been balanced so that will save me $200 at the machine shop. Its a $1600 set-up with machine work. Problem is, the crank has been through a lot. The rod bearings are .0010 over and the mains are .0020 over. I talked to a machine shop and they said it would be fine. One guy said he's been .0030 over on the mains but that was all motor and in a mustang so not exactly apples to apples here. Its a hell, hell of a deal but not if its going to grenade on me. Is it a risk?
I have stock 6.0 heads to help lower compression a bit. I have not bought pistons yet cause I don't know whether to get flat tops or not. I don't want compression to be too low. First question is what is stock compression, looks like 10:1? How much do the 6.0L heads lower compression, .5 or a full point? If it lowers it a full point, is 9:1 okay or should I go lower to 8.5? I don't want the car to be too sluggish around town as this is my only car/DD.
Second question is, what gaskets should I use and what bore? 5.7L to match the block or 6.0L to match the head?
Third, this is forced induction and I'm trying to do this cheap so do I have to convert to a LS6 intake? What will it hurt to stay with the stock LS1 manifold? Will it cause detonation or just require me to run more boost? I saw a thread where it only made an extra 10whp on a NA car so how much is it really costing me? I couldn't find ANY dyno results comparing the two with FI. I'm thinking it might require me to run an extra 1lb of boost at most to compensate? Is that ballpark? Down to the point, worth the $350 for a used one?
Fourth, my friend has a rotating assembly he wants to sell cheap, $500. Stock "race-prepped" crank and forged pistons/rods for stock compression, hence the 6.0L heads. Its already been balanced so that will save me $200 at the machine shop. Its a $1600 set-up with machine work. Problem is, the crank has been through a lot. The rod bearings are .0010 over and the mains are .0020 over. I talked to a machine shop and they said it would be fine. One guy said he's been .0030 over on the mains but that was all motor and in a mustang so not exactly apples to apples here. Its a hell, hell of a deal but not if its going to grenade on me. Is it a risk?
