Do turbo's cause widebands to jump around?
#1
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Do turbo's cause widebands to jump around?
Curious because I just installed mine today and I figured it would only flucuate a little bit but it jumps around quite a bit. My buddy thinks that his may have done the same when he had a turbo kit on his car. I wish I could tell you more of what it was doing but for the short time I was out I managed to have a deer jump on the front side of my car and slide across the hood
But anyways, could anyone just explaine what theirs does so I can compare it to what mine is doing?
BTW- I have the AEM UEGO. Yes the sensor is at a slight angle after the turbo. I currently am running an open downpipe and the sensor is placed about 8 inches from the turbo.
Thanks
But anyways, could anyone just explaine what theirs does so I can compare it to what mine is doing?
BTW- I have the AEM UEGO. Yes the sensor is at a slight angle after the turbo. I currently am running an open downpipe and the sensor is placed about 8 inches from the turbo.
Thanks
Last edited by fletchls1; 05-15-2007 at 10:32 PM.
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A turbocharger won't cause your a/f to move around. Placement is important. The O2 sensor for the wide band should be placed in the downpipe not the manifold or crossover. Other than that work on your tune up
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Originally Posted by Turbo Tech
A turbocharger won't cause your a/f to move around. Placement is important. The O2 sensor for the wide band should be placed in the downpipe not the manifold or crossover. Other than that work on your tune up
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#8
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Mine is placed 2 ft from my cutout. That shouldn't be a problem though as it is reading the air passing over it. I really don't see how 'outside air' would get to it. The air coming out would be too strong to overcome for it to work its way to it or even mix. Mine doesn't jump around but it will change from 13.5 to 13.6 to 13.7 to 13.6 to 13.7 continuously. It might stay on each value from anywhere from .5 seconds to 2 seconds. Is that what you are talking about? (and that is too rich I know, should be 14.7.)
And I just remebered that my friends car, which is over 1000rwhp only has about 20-22 inches of downpipe before it dumps straight down to the ground. I believe his wideband bung is in the elbow about 12-14 inches from the exit and his car is tuned spot on. So, take that for what you want. Just trying to help. I hate when I have questions like this and no one wants to take the time to answer.
And I just remebered that my friends car, which is over 1000rwhp only has about 20-22 inches of downpipe before it dumps straight down to the ground. I believe his wideband bung is in the elbow about 12-14 inches from the exit and his car is tuned spot on. So, take that for what you want. Just trying to help. I hate when I have questions like this and no one wants to take the time to answer.
#9
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It is normal for it to jump around. As you accelerate and decelerate the fuel mixture goes from very rich to very lean at times. Just watch the narrow band sensors with a scanner, they will be all over the place. I think the instructions wanted my sensor to be within three feet of the heads so it would stay hot enough, so I have the bung only on the left side. Does it stabilize as you nail it? If it does it is probably fine.
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Believe it or not it is fairly easy for a wideband that is close to the end of the exhaust to get saturated with outside air, especially at low rpms. You could always make a temporary extention pipe if you think this may be happening. Other that that it is normal for the a/f to move around, typically you want it to idle and cruise at 14.7 and then going into boost the mixture should richen up. Some people have the fueling go straight into the 11's even at 1-2 psi, some people have it transfer slowly depending on the application.
#13
Originally Posted by 2001WS6Vert
It is normal for it to jump around. As you accelerate and decelerate the fuel mixture goes from very rich to very lean at times. Just watch the narrow band sensors with a scanner, they will be all over the place. I think the instructions wanted my sensor to be within three feet of the heads so it would stay hot enough, so I have the bung only on the left side. Does it stabilize as you nail it? If it does it is probably fine.
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Mine varies pretty widely when driving when there is very little throttle applied and the manifold is registering some sort of vacuum. Once I'm into the gas a bit it steps into line around stoich, and when I go WOT it gets to 11.8 pretty quick and stays there. Parked at idle it registers 14.7.
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Originally Posted by SStolen
Mine is placed 2 ft from my cutout. That shouldn't be a problem though as it is reading the air passing over it. I really don't see how 'outside air' would get to it. The air coming out would be too strong to overcome for it to work its way to it or even mix. Mine doesn't jump around but it will change from 13.5 to 13.6 to 13.7 to 13.6 to 13.7 continuously. It might stay on each value from anywhere from .5 seconds to 2 seconds. Is that what you are talking about? (and that is too rich I know, should be 14.7.)
And I just remebered that my friends car, which is over 1000rwhp only has about 20-22 inches of downpipe before it dumps straight down to the ground. I believe his wideband bung is in the elbow about 12-14 inches from the exit and his car is tuned spot on. So, take that for what you want. Just trying to help. I hate when I have questions like this and no one wants to take the time to answer.
And I just remebered that my friends car, which is over 1000rwhp only has about 20-22 inches of downpipe before it dumps straight down to the ground. I believe his wideband bung is in the elbow about 12-14 inches from the exit and his car is tuned spot on. So, take that for what you want. Just trying to help. I hate when I have questions like this and no one wants to take the time to answer.
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Originally Posted by Boostaholic
well I turn the data logger on and put my foot in the down position, then watch the AFR
Im trying to learn how to do this so I dont know. You tune your whole rpm range at WOT?
#19
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Originally Posted by SSblack98
It is NOT normal for it to jump around more then .5 AFR or so. If it is fluctuating rapidly and more then that something is wrong. My friend had the AEM and had similar issues. Not long after that it was way off. Now he is running a LM1 with no major fluctuation and dead on. Narrow band sensors are supposed to fluctuate rapidly from rich to lean. You cannot apply narrow band characteristics to wide bands. Not the same kind of operation.
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Originally Posted by 2001WS6Vert
The car shoots for 14:7 at most cruise situations, 11:5 when accelerating heavy, it will go lean when you let off the gas. Actually it does mimic the cars O2 sensors. How do you come up with .5 AFR variation?