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Weak factory internals

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Old 06-13-2007, 10:57 AM
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Default Weak factory internals

I heard that the factory supplied oil pumps should be upgraded and the timing chains could be better as well as the valve springs.
Any other LS1 components that, if I add a blower, or just other bolt on performance goodies, that should be upgraded?
Once I change cams, I'll add the proper springs, hardened pushrods and such, add an electric water pump. Anything else?

I was planning on adding the ATI supercharger kit, which if I recall supplies the injectors, fuel pump, or booster pump, everything. I think the kit I want is the 8lb kit, but it seems most I read is its just a bolt onto your motor and use the supplied tuner to flash the ecm and go. Made to go with stock internals and heads, and such.

Is this a false assumption?
To make the most out of the blower, I'd be adding a blower cam as well as full on exhaust. Yes, I'd also fortify the trans (clutch) and rear end as well as adding subframe connectors (beofre the blower actually).

Last edited by Stringfellow; 06-13-2007 at 11:25 AM.
Old 06-13-2007, 11:05 AM
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i know the sts kits are made to run off stock motor, but i think no more than 8psi.

the things you listed would just make sure you dont fry your motor or turbo.
Old 06-13-2007, 01:55 PM
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valve springs at a minimum
Old 06-13-2007, 03:31 PM
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oil pumps are good as well as the timing chains...never had a prob with either and i run stock pump/chain
Old 06-13-2007, 04:09 PM
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8 sec potential, 12 sec slip
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Well, really, the weakest point is the pistons. Ringlands like to break under boost. Yes, EPP sells a kit that includes the injectors and all. But I'd start saving for a shortblock as soon as you put the blower on. I also wouldn't trust just the mail order tune. Get it tuned locally on the dyno, and on the street too if possible. You will definitely need some gauges to stay on top of things- boost, fuel pressure, and wideband are good ones. One more thing, get the D-1SC kit from the get go and don't even consider the P-1SC. Its only a $200 option right off the bat.

I also wouldn't recommend an electric water pump. They always seem to be more trouble than what they are worth. I've seen a lot of people go back to the stock water pump for one reason or another after running an EWP.

One issue you may have with the procharger is the coolant temps. Especially if you plan on running the A/C. There are several remedies that are floating around in this section, do a search, but it really depends on how hot it gets where you live, and how often you use the A/C.
Old 06-14-2007, 12:55 PM
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Thanks Chad, as for AC, I do run it on the real hot days here. We prob peak around 25-30 celcious, if I recall thats in the 80-85F.

Since I drive transport, It won't be driven too too much anyway.
It sounds as I should just get a better flowing water pump or underdrive it instead of an electric?
Also, as for valve springs, whatever cam I use, I'll get the spring kit with it.

Thanks guys
Old 06-14-2007, 03:34 PM
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The stock water pump is not the weak point in the coolant system. If you go ATI, the weakest link will be the single fan. Some add another smaller second fan as well. After that, the radiator is the next part to switch out. After that, you should not have any issues. Bottom line, don't worry about the water pump



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