HELP! guys with procharger going mid 9s...
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HELP! guys with procharger going mid 9s...
This car is runnin too hot for my liking and can not make passes every 30min w/o fanning the crap outta the car... She runs 200 goin down the track and climbs to 225 when she's shut off...
I've did the distilled h2o and water wetter and not much of a change... She's procharged with an aftermarket radiator (fluidyne) with the same fan which came with the procharger kit... I have a FMIC as well...
I wanna go with an electric water pump and electric fans but dont know who else runs this and if its efficient with LS based engines? It's mostly a strip car... Can i keep the 12v system or need to upgrade to 16v? I have a 2step and trans brake and know that sucks alot of power at the line... Along with the FAST 1300HP fuel system kit
Does anyone have suggestions, thoughts to what I should do? I feel If i run an electric pump I wont have enough volts??? And whether the shorter serpentine belt will need to be modified (pulleys and what not)...
HELP!
Jayson
I've did the distilled h2o and water wetter and not much of a change... She's procharged with an aftermarket radiator (fluidyne) with the same fan which came with the procharger kit... I have a FMIC as well...
I wanna go with an electric water pump and electric fans but dont know who else runs this and if its efficient with LS based engines? It's mostly a strip car... Can i keep the 12v system or need to upgrade to 16v? I have a 2step and trans brake and know that sucks alot of power at the line... Along with the FAST 1300HP fuel system kit
Does anyone have suggestions, thoughts to what I should do? I feel If i run an electric pump I wont have enough volts??? And whether the shorter serpentine belt will need to be modified (pulleys and what not)...
HELP!
Jayson
#3
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At the track you cant beat an electric water pump, on a 90 degree day with the fan and wp on and engine off it will drop the ECT to 160 from 200 after a pass in about 5 minutes.
I charge the battery sometimes at the track if its a money race plus I also have a 145 amp alternator and a voltblaster that kicks the voltage up to 15v at WOT. I probably lose 20hp with the alternator running flat out but I can go a whole day without charging the car if I have to, that includes cool downs and multiple starts moving up in the staging lanes.
Thats with a full size battery n the back, these cars draw a crapload of power so a big battery is a must if you are going rounds with an EWP and fan on with the car not running.
I charge the battery sometimes at the track if its a money race plus I also have a 145 amp alternator and a voltblaster that kicks the voltage up to 15v at WOT. I probably lose 20hp with the alternator running flat out but I can go a whole day without charging the car if I have to, that includes cool downs and multiple starts moving up in the staging lanes.
Thats with a full size battery n the back, these cars draw a crapload of power so a big battery is a must if you are going rounds with an EWP and fan on with the car not running.
#4
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Cable,
No the FMIC does not hang below the chin of the front bumper... I actually still have the blk guard up to deflect air up into the new radiator...
KP,
Is your shortened serpentine belt in the way of your EWP? Im gonna order all this stuff Monday so I appreciate your help... I'm gonna start using the golf cart to tow the t/a to and from the line... I dont feel comfortable having the car 200 F before I start my burnout...
Installation pretty simple and anything I need to change with the factory PCM?
No the FMIC does not hang below the chin of the front bumper... I actually still have the blk guard up to deflect air up into the new radiator...
KP,
Is your shortened serpentine belt in the way of your EWP? Im gonna order all this stuff Monday so I appreciate your help... I'm gonna start using the golf cart to tow the t/a to and from the line... I dont feel comfortable having the car 200 F before I start my burnout...
Installation pretty simple and anything I need to change with the factory PCM?
#5
I would spend the money on a meth kit before I would install the ewp.
Dollar for dollar for reliability and horsepower the meth kit (Alkycontrol or Snow) will keep your engine much cooler than a ewp and since your's is mostly race - IMO the meth kit makes more sense. Engine will last longer, run cleaner, run cooler, less likely to detonate, no need for race gas etc.
You also might consider a Spal Extreme fan (pulls 3000 cfm) and also a smaller 9 inch puller alongside it.
Dollar for dollar for reliability and horsepower the meth kit (Alkycontrol or Snow) will keep your engine much cooler than a ewp and since your's is mostly race - IMO the meth kit makes more sense. Engine will last longer, run cleaner, run cooler, less likely to detonate, no need for race gas etc.
You also might consider a Spal Extreme fan (pulls 3000 cfm) and also a smaller 9 inch puller alongside it.
#7
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Originally Posted by dlandsvZ28
I would spend the money on a meth kit before I would install the ewp.
Dollar for dollar for reliability and horsepower the meth kit (Alkycontrol or Snow) will keep your engine much cooler than a ewp and since your's is mostly race - IMO the meth kit makes more sense. Engine will last longer, run cleaner, run cooler, less likely to detonate, no need for race gas etc.
You also might consider a Spal Extreme fan (pulls 3000 cfm) and also a smaller 9 inch puller alongside it.
Dollar for dollar for reliability and horsepower the meth kit (Alkycontrol or Snow) will keep your engine much cooler than a ewp and since your's is mostly race - IMO the meth kit makes more sense. Engine will last longer, run cleaner, run cooler, less likely to detonate, no need for race gas etc.
You also might consider a Spal Extreme fan (pulls 3000 cfm) and also a smaller 9 inch puller alongside it.
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#8
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Meth has nothing to do with cooling the engine down between rounds.
I just run the smallest 16" puller fan I could find, 1200 cfm or something like that, less current draw. Not the best for street driving but works fine at the track. The street EWP is 100% bolt in, I still have power steering but even if you dont if the stock water pump fits the street EWP will fit. I can usually hot lap the car on 90 degree days since just idling back on the return road it will get to 180 or so pulling right back in the staging lanes. Shut the engine off for 2 minutes and its down to 160.
I just run the smallest 16" puller fan I could find, 1200 cfm or something like that, less current draw. Not the best for street driving but works fine at the track. The street EWP is 100% bolt in, I still have power steering but even if you dont if the stock water pump fits the street EWP will fit. I can usually hot lap the car on 90 degree days since just idling back on the return road it will get to 180 or so pulling right back in the staging lanes. Shut the engine off for 2 minutes and its down to 160.
#9
We must be speaking of different systems - my kit (too arrive tomorrow from Alkycontrol - talk to Julio) has it own tank and pump, and feeds right into the intake - same as a wet nitrous kit.
Price for it was actually about the same as what I paid for my electric Meziere pump.
Price for it was actually about the same as what I paid for my electric Meziere pump.
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I wish I could have it running 180 down the return road... Mine runs 200-205 down the return road... But my fans are not scheduled to turn on till 215 ( needs to be changed - I know ) so that might be part of the problem... And I still have the factory thermostat... Upgrade to 160?
If you use distilled water in the cooling system does some of that water evaporate?
If you use distilled water in the cooling system does some of that water evaporate?
#11
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I just use distilled water, its a closed system and shoudnt evaporate.
Having the fans come on earlier will help, but the EWP moves the water full blast even when idling and will cool everything down pretty quick. I have the fan and pump on a awitch so I can turn them on with the car off and its amazing how quick it will cool the car down when its not running.
I use a 160 in the EWP and also a 160 in the stock pump when I had it on there but that wont make a huge difference. It used to take me 1/2 hour at least to cool the car off on a hot day with the stock pump. The driving it back to the lanes and starting it pulling it up it just kept getting hotter ith the stock pump. Its nice to pull into the lanes and let the pump/fan run for a minute or two and its right back down to 160.
Having the fans come on earlier will help, but the EWP moves the water full blast even when idling and will cool everything down pretty quick. I have the fan and pump on a awitch so I can turn them on with the car off and its amazing how quick it will cool the car down when its not running.
I use a 160 in the EWP and also a 160 in the stock pump when I had it on there but that wont make a huge difference. It used to take me 1/2 hour at least to cool the car off on a hot day with the stock pump. The driving it back to the lanes and starting it pulling it up it just kept getting hotter ith the stock pump. Its nice to pull into the lanes and let the pump/fan run for a minute or two and its right back down to 160.
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thanks for all your help... I have a few issues with the car at the moment since i've beaten the hell outta it for 5 straight races... She's down some power (about 5-6mph for trap speeds) I know some of it is a heating issue -- so this is a start...
But she ran really well for about 25passes and I didnt change a thing... and the blower belt looks fantastic... Finally she's almost dialed in... I think i lost a cylinder last time i went out... ( went from running a .50 to a .90 and lost 5mph... plugs were iffy and plan on a leak down tomorrow... Or i have another head gasket blown... However, im only running 12-13lbs boost with those MLS felpro gaskets... So... we'll see... I'll keep yall up to date...
But I finally got my 1.37 sisty foot i wanted with a 36xxlbs car
I was running the 3922 autolite and im gonna try the 3935s next... And a few other mods to see if she'll run a low 9.4x
But she ran really well for about 25passes and I didnt change a thing... and the blower belt looks fantastic... Finally she's almost dialed in... I think i lost a cylinder last time i went out... ( went from running a .50 to a .90 and lost 5mph... plugs were iffy and plan on a leak down tomorrow... Or i have another head gasket blown... However, im only running 12-13lbs boost with those MLS felpro gaskets... So... we'll see... I'll keep yall up to date...
But I finally got my 1.37 sisty foot i wanted with a 36xxlbs car
I was running the 3922 autolite and im gonna try the 3935s next... And a few other mods to see if she'll run a low 9.4x
#13
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Thats a big drop in power so it shouldnt be hard to find. I am running -8 heat range NGKs now, the 3922 is a bit hotter. I have run up to 18psi but 13-14psi and sunoco 112 seems to be the trouble free point for me.
Rough to get good passes when it heats up out though, congrats on the good 60 foots. I hated to shell the 500 out for the EWP but if you are drag racing the car a lot its pretty much a must.
Rough to get good passes when it heats up out though, congrats on the good 60 foots. I hated to shell the 500 out for the EWP but if you are drag racing the car a lot its pretty much a must.
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I agree with the EWP... I need a bigger stall to get the 1.30 sixty which I feel she's capable of... I think alot of my problem was switching to the 3922 plugs... They were good for 2 passes then i noticed the ET and MPH droppin... but I could have other stuff goin on... I feel she can do a 9.40 with the itty bitty motor... Not bad for a 347 ls6 with ls6 heads... I'll get r' figured out before too long...
Thanks for the help... I'll post something later in the week...
Thanks for the help... I'll post something later in the week...
#16
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damm...this is keeping me from going FI too. i live in extremely hot weather(115+) and ive done some research on this, and im a bit scared of it. i dont think i would go with a FMIC since it would cover the radiator......good luck.
#17
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When I was blower (9.40@143, 1.35) I ran stock fans and rad, and the fans were programmed to come on at like 175F. Needless to say my fan ran all the time but the car never ran hot.
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get an EWP and a seperate relay for your fan(s) and ewp and set them to a switch inside your car... works wonders for me... i can go on a 20 mile cruise and my ect gets up to 215 on a 95*F day...
this is with stock radiator and the one ATI fan and EWP...
this is with stock radiator and the one ATI fan and EWP...