bowtieman81

iTrader: (35)

OK, I need some help determining if I have the incon turbo assemblies "clocked" correctly. I am having a heck of a time figuring out where and how the coolant lines hook up, and I am thinking that I have something wrong. I had to take the turbos completely apart for new CHRA, and the pics I took before taking them apart are not making sense. The way the Cablebandit had them set up seems different than other photos I have seen, adn I cannot figure out where the oil and mainly the water lines go.

If anybody has any photos it would greatly be appreciated!

Thanks.

cablebandit

iTrader: (37)

yikes!!!!!!!!

anarchy99

iTrader: (7)

Maybe one of these pics will help. As far as where the lines go, I think I'm mis-understanding that part of it, do you mean, where they go on the turbos or where they go on the car?

bowtieman81

iTrader: (35)

Thanks for the help, got the turbos clocked sucessfully.

Now I have another problem though. The drivers side turbo fits good, but the passenger side turbo does not. It is only 1/8" away from the floorboard of the car at teh back of the exhaust manifold, and it wont clear the floorboard where the cast downpipe bolt up.

Did you incon guys have to beat on the floorboard with a hammer? That looks like what I have to do to get clearance. Now the damn thing has to come out again.

Also, I have seen several pics of incon setups where the factory exhaust heat shields are removed. Is that the way you are supposed to run them?

TIA

cablebandit

iTrader: (37)

i never had that get even close....that is strange

~JOSHUA

iTrader: (92)

Yeah, I had my Incons in and out about 5 times on each side. Don't worry if the fit is tight on the passenger side. When the engine torques under a load it will angle the downpipe away from the bottom of the car. The driver's side will pull closer to the car, just like you hear about header y-pipes only banging on the driver's side, 'cause the passenger side never gets slapped under powershifts

Here's my cell phone for when you're about to burn everything to the ground, I know those kits in full detail. (678) 492 6843

I had removed all heat shielding....

Hope these help...




I believe this was the passenger side, close up so you can see how it was clocked.

bowtieman81

iTrader: (35)

Thanks for the help guys. I took some photos of mine, but forgot the camera over at my dads. Here is a pic where I was having trouble with clearance on mine. The upper downpipe bolt not visible in the pic is where I had to hammer the floorpan of the car. The circled area on the manifold is where I only have 1/8" of clearance.



Does running without any heat shields hurt anything?

~JOSHUA

iTrader: (92)

Mine didn't have a single heat shield in place.
The car felt the same inside, and after a few thousand miles when I removed the Incons I saw no visible heat damage.


Remove 'em if you need the room. Don't worry.

bowtieman81

iTrader: (35)

Well, after some trial and error, along with some hammering on the floorboard the passenger side has adequate clearance. Man, taking that turbo in and out is hell with the engine in the car. The mcleod bellhousing interfereds just enought that the WG actuator has to be taken off to get the turbo out.

Good news is that I am much closer to being done after today.

~JOSHUA

iTrader: (92)

Yup, the only major downside to the Incons are the install hassles.
Even with the K-member dropped all the way it can travel it's a real arzz pain to get the details settled. On both sides the wastegate actuators have to be put in after. Not much room.

*Neat tip* LS1 header studs (bought from ARP for $99/set) had the perfect thread count/pitch to use on the waste gate bolt holes. I had a small gear ratchet to get the nut tight/loose. Much easier than trying to thread a bolt in that blind spot.

I vowed never to do that again with engine/k member in place.

Oh! Huge tip if it's going on a Trans Am.. Make sure you trim/cut the parking brake buckets on the backside of the front bumper.

The intercoolers WILL interfere with the parking light buckets when you torque the front bumper back down. It made crows feet cracks in the paint on both sides. I couldn't tell at first because it was 2am in the morning in a one stall apartment garage. I still had to go to work in the morning.

Another thing. The Horn relocation idea in the kit wont work because the kit was designed (and prototyped) on a Camaro. They didn't take into account the Trans Am having rotating headlight assemblies. You'll have to make a new bracket solution if you want horns. I just looped the horn's wire connection up into the engine bay to address later....

In the end, I was rolling around in a 550hp 'Hawk that had no horn.

bowtieman81

iTrader: (35)

Thanks for the tips. I will remember about trimming the lights.

Hopefully tomorrow I can report back with some start up videos.

I should probably update the install thread I started too.