Killing motor at end of 1/4 mile run to read plugs....how to prevent turbo coking?
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Killing motor at end of 1/4 mile run to read plugs....how to prevent turbo coking?
Kinda wondering what some of you big guys do about this.
To accurately read plugs, you should kill the motor at the end of the 1/4 mile. Obviously, this kills oil flow. How do you prevent coking?
To accurately read plugs, you should kill the motor at the end of the 1/4 mile. Obviously, this kills oil flow. How do you prevent coking?
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well, it'll be pushed pretty damn hard....
I've toyed with the idea of adding an auxillary electric pump to push oil for a while after shutdown...
something like this: http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/mocal1.htm
I've toyed with the idea of adding an auxillary electric pump to push oil for a while after shutdown...
something like this: http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/mocal1.htm
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What size turbo? On the large frame turbos you can just shut it down. There is not one team out there that leaves the car running after a pass. If you were road racing and building up alot of heat over an extended period of time, then it would be an issue. On a drag car I wouldn't worry about it. We have never had a problem shutting them down.
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#8
Believe me i would know if it would coke turbos I push really really hard on my turbo..lol
Anyways i was winking about reading the plugs...meaning joke..lol
The auxillary pump is a cool idea..but its also one more thing to work on...
Anyways i was winking about reading the plugs...meaning joke..lol
The auxillary pump is a cool idea..but its also one more thing to work on...
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What size turbo? On the large frame turbos you can just shut it down. There is not one team out there that leaves the car running after a pass. If you were road racing and building up alot of heat over an extended period of time, then it would be an issue. On a drag car I wouldn't worry about it. We have never had a problem shutting them down.
GT47 turbo
#12
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Originally Posted by kp
The 'shut off the car to get a plug reading' thing is more for carb'd cars that run at 9:1 a/f at idle and dump a crapload of fuel on decel.
Most modern EFI cars will pretty much shut the fuel off (DFCO, BS3 has it) once you dump the throttle. Even if you drive it back a little the 13-14:1 a/f wont color the plugs.
As far as putting in 2nd (neutral on a TCI TB valve body) most of the time I dont but I could if I wanted to. I'm usually too concerned with stopping than farting around with the shifter at 140-150mph. The first 60 foot of slowing down is almost as important as the first 60 feet of taking off.
Most modern EFI cars will pretty much shut the fuel off (DFCO, BS3 has it) once you dump the throttle. Even if you drive it back a little the 13-14:1 a/f wont color the plugs.
As far as putting in 2nd (neutral on a TCI TB valve body) most of the time I dont but I could if I wanted to. I'm usually too concerned with stopping than farting around with the shifter at 140-150mph. The first 60 foot of slowing down is almost as important as the first 60 feet of taking off.
J
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http://www.pre-luber.com/index.htm
It can be set up to run after shutdown. IIRC, there is an optional adjustable timer for running the pump after shutdown.
It can be set up to run after shutdown. IIRC, there is an optional adjustable timer for running the pump after shutdown.
#15
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I just cut it off right after a pull on the dyno. Never hurt anything. We usually run water cooled ball bearing turbos but if I had standard journal bearing turbos on my own car I wouldn't hesitate to do it.
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even if u have dual widebands on the car thats only telling you BANKS not cylinders individually.ie if an injector for some reason is partially clogged or sticking or if u have a poor spark in only 1 cylinder the wideband may show u still in your safety zone and not show u the problem cylinder